Singer is an acclaimed California-based modifier of 911s that are essentially Porsche 964s rebuilt with high-end, modern components like a new electrical system and iPod connectivity. Agenhor, on the other hand, is a movement maker based in Geneva led by Jean-Marc Wiederrecht that is behind wristwatches from famous names like Van Cleef & Arpels and MB&F.

The two precision engineering outfits came together for the Track 1, a chronograph with a 1970s style powered by a remarkably advanced movement – the somewhat more affordable horological equivalent of the US$400,000 Singer 911. It’s the first wristwatch by Singer Reimagined, a watchmaker set up by Singer co-founder Rob Dickinson, Wiederrecht and Marco Borracino, who spent four years as chief designer at Panerai.

The Track 1 is chronograph first and wristwatch second. All the chronograph counters on the Track 1 are co-axial on the centre of the dial, with the time-telling hour and minute hands relegated to the periphery.

A “3×60” chronograph display takes up the silvered central portion of the dial with all three of its counters – hours, minutes and seconds – equipped with instantaneous, or jumping, hands. On the outer edge is the tachymeter, and next to it the 60-second scale with orange accents and an orange seconds hand. The innermost scale is for both hours and minutes, each indicated by an orange-tipped hand.

Time is indicated with two rings and an orange pointed at six o’clock; above the time is 10:10.

AgenGraphe

The unusual display is possible thanks to the unusual AgenGraphe cal. 6361 movement inside. Having made its debut in the Faberge Visionnaire Chronograph earlier this year, the AgenGraphe is the result of almost a decade’s development.

The AgenGraphe relies on a clever construction Agenhor has used in other movements, which leaves the basic bits on the out portion of the base plate and the centre free for complications. Here the chronograph mechanism sits in the middle of the movement, with the barrel, gear train and so on positioned around it. This allows for enough height for a sophisticated chronograph mechanism, as well as a respectable 60-hour power reserve.

The chronograph has both a column wheel and vertical clutch, typical of many modern chronograph movements, but the clutch is an improvement on the conventional design. It features smooth-edged, diamond-nickel composite coated wheels that can mesh with contact friction, instead of interlocking teeth. Under the smooth-edge wheels are more conventional toothed “security” wheels to keep them in alignment.

Another innovation is the time counting mechanism. Each of the hour, minute and second counters have their own tension springs for jumping display, while the minute and second counters each have a snail cam for the reset function.

The complex construction explains why the calibre is made up of 477 parts, nearly double that of an ordinary chronograph movement.

Retro style

Measuring a large 43mm wide by 15mm high, the case of the Track 1 takes its cues from 1970s watches, with a domed, cushion form that’s characteristic of the era. And the chronograph pushers are at two and ten o’clock, the “bullhead” configuration that’s also typical of the 1970s.

It’s made of titanium, with a radial brushed finish on the top that’s de rigueur for this case style, as well as a domed sapphire crystal.

Price and availability 

The Track 1 “launch edition” is limited to 50 pieces, priced at SFr39,800 before taxes. That’s just over US$41,000. It’s available directly from Singer Reimagined.

A small Spanish outfit that introduced its first wristwatch last year, Ophion has just announced its second model. The OPH 786 takes its cues from the pocket watches made by Abraham-Louis Breguet, inside and out. Admirably effort went into refining the details of the watch, while keeping it affordable.

The dial has an crosshatch engine-turning that is engraved (albeit with a CNC machine), instead of the stamped guilloche that is typical for watches of this price point. Both the chapter rings for the hour and minute markers are applied, with the Roman numerals as cut-outs, exposing the guilloche below.

Inside is the TT-2W, a hand-wound calibre with twin barrels and a five-day power reserve. It’s the same calibre that was used inside Ophion’s earlier model, but significantly modified to adopt the style of a 18th century movement. The bridges have been reshaped to resemble those in pocket watches, with a hammered, granular finish on their surfaces to mimic the frosting of antique movements.

Notably, the producer of the calibre, Technotime, went out of business recently and its assets were acquired by Soprod, a larger movement manufacturer that’s part of the Festina Group. So while the first 40 examples of the OPH 786 will have a Technotime-branded movement inside, made up of Ophion’s existing stock, subsequent production will be Soprod-powered.

Price and availability 

The OPH 786 will be delivered in November 2017, priced at €1650 for the grey dial and €1990 for the blue or silver dial. It’s available directly from Ophion.