Hands On: Piaget Polo Signature Date

Defining an identity.

Ten years after the Polo S, Piaget reimagines the contemporary Polo Date with the brand’s signature gadroon motif. The Polo Signature Date is less a new watch than a clarification: a move to anchor the collection around a more explicit identity.

This took place through a two-step process. First, the reinstatement of the historical reference with the Piaget Polo 79. Then, the diffusion of its codes – most notably the gadroons – into the contemporary line, now organised under the Polo Signature name. The result is a watch that remains technically unchanged, but conceptually more defined. The unchanged movement — the automatic cal. 1110P — remains in reliable service.

Initial thoughts

At first glance, the change is straightforward: the dial now carries the gadroon motif. But more importantly, it gives the watch a clearer and more distinctly Piaget presence.

The overall architecture remains familiar – 42 mm case, cushion-shaped dial within a round frame, interchangeable bracelet – yet the visual impression is stronger. Where earlier Polo Date models relied on relatively neutral surfaces, this dial interacts more actively with light, creating contrast and a stronger sense of identity on the wrist.

This is perhaps where the update is most effective. The Polo becomes more immediately recognisable, less reliant on its case shape alone. The gadroons do not transform the watch, but they sharpen its character within the crowded luxury sports watch segment.

From motif to signature

The gadroon is not a minor detail at Piaget. Its introduction on the dial is not just a design choice, but part of a broader repositioning.

On the original Piaget Polo, the gadroons defined the entire object – merging case and bracelet into a continuous surface. In the contemporary Polo, the motif is used differently. It becomes a visual marker — applied on the dial rather than unifying the dial, case, and bracelet — intended to create continuity across the collection.

This shift reflects the evolution of the Polo itself. Over time, it moved from a singular concept to a more fragmented range – particularly in the 2000s, with models like the Polo FortyFive, which pushed the collection toward more conventional sports watch territory.

The 2016 Polo S attempted to reset that trajectory, introducing a new design language aligned with the sport-chic segment. It marked Piaget’s entry into a highly competitive category, with a deliberately accessible proposition made in steel and priced under $10,000. But while commercially coherent, it arguably lacked a strong identity of its own.

Recent developments have accelerated the Polo’s evolution. The reintroduction of the Polo 79 reasserted the brand’s formal vocabulary. The appearance of gadroons on the 150th anniversary Polo Date marked their adaptation to the modern line. With the Polo Signature, the gadroon-inspired dial joins the permanent collection.

This does not restore the radical nature of the original model, which is instead revived in the Polo 79 reissue and its recent variations. Instead, it creates continuity. The Polo Signature connects different models – steel, gold, gem-set, in 36 and 42 mm sizes – under a shared visual language, while remaining compatible with contemporary expectations (like the option for a blue dial).

In that sense, the cushion-shaped dial within a round case remains the defining feature of the modern Polo — the gadroons reinforce this design, giving it a more recognisable identity.

Relaxed elegance

The Polo Signature succeeds in part thanks to its casual elegance — it’s slim enough to slide under a shirt cuff, but substantial enough to hold its own when paired with beach wear. Like the Patek Philippe Nautilus and Audemars Piguet Royal Oak, it’s a unisex design that works well in different sizes. The colour palette ranges from the familiar blue — an almost universal option among contemporary sports watches — to case-matched silver with appealing rose gold accents.

As befitting its luxury positioning, the case is dressed with alternating brushed and polished treatments, and sports a substantial 100 m water resistance rating, meaning it can be worn like a piece of jewellery in and out of the pool. The interchangeable bracelet — which detaches from the case without tools — can be easily swapped for a case-fitted rubber strap in seconds.

A coherent but discreet movement

Like the 2016 model, the Polo Signature Date is powered by the automatic cal. 1110P, derived from the cal. 800P introduced in the early 2000s. It is a proven and reliable in-house movement, measuring just 4 mm thick – relatively slim for a standard automatic movement. The movement is decorated with circular Côtes de Genève on the bridges, perlage on the base plate, and a slate grey-coloured oscillating weight engraved with the charming Piaget coat of arms.

While the movement finishing is largely representative of the industrial-haute horlogerie segment, the rotor engravings are a cut above industry norms, with remarkably crisp borders for both the crest and the Piaget wordmark.

The in-house cal. 1110P, seen here in the Polo S.

While this in-house movement reflects Piaget’s legitimacy as a manufacture, it is not the differentiating element of the watch. Although the brand has a strong heritage in thin (and ultra-thin) watchmaking, this mechanical expertise is not the main focus here and remains a supporting element, secondary to the Polo Signature’s elegant design.

This is consistent with Piaget’s long-term strategy. From the earliest days of the Polo, the collection has emphasised design and craftsmanship first and selected the movement — whether quartz or mechanical — best suited to bring the design concept to life. With the Polo Signature, Piaget continues in that direction, placing greater emphasis on elegance over mechanics, in line with its “Extraleganza” concept. In doing so, it also echoes Yves G. Piaget’s well-known definition of the 1979 Polo as a “bracelet watch” rather than merely a wristwatch.


Key facts and price

Piaget Polo Signature Date

Diameter: 42 mm
Height: 9.4 mm
Material: Stainless steel
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: 100 m

Movement: Cal. 1110P
Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds, date
Winding: Automatic
Frequency: 28,800 beats per hour (4 Hz)
Power reserve: 50 hours

Strap: Stainless steel bracelet or interchangeable rubber strap

Limited edition: No
Availability: Now at Piaget boutiques and retailers
Price: US$16,200 (bracelet), or $14,000 (rubber strap) excluding taxes

For more, visit Piaget.com.

This was brought to you in partnership with Piaget.


 

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Hands On: Patek Philippe’s Celestial Goes to Space

The weird-but-cool ref. 6105G Celestial Sunrise and Sunset.

Perhaps the most surprising launch from Patek Philippe at Watches & Wonders 2026 was the Celestial Sunrise and Sunset Ref. 6105G-001. The ref. 6105G arrives over a decade after its predecessor, the ref. 6102 (2012), which in turn replaced the ref. 5102 (2002). While the prior model was an incremental evolution over the original, the ref. 6105G is a drastic redesign with its spaceship-inspired aesthetic and 47 mm (!) white gold case that wears unexpectedly well.

The ref. 6105G is also an upgrade in mechanical terms with the addition of an elegant and simple sunrise and sunrise display that’s smartly implemented on the date ring and driven by a clever compliant mechanism that enhances its precision. And the ref. 6105G has another trick up its sleeve, a mechanism that accounts for summer and winter time (also known as daylight saving time), which shifts the time display as well as the date ring backwards or forwards as the seasons change.

Initial thoughts

Put simply, the ref. 6105G is weird but cool. Some of Patek Philippe’s recent experiments with design have been so-so in attractiveness, but the ref. 6105G scores well, maybe even the best amongst the brand’s adventurous designs.

It’s unlike any other Patek Philippe ever with its huge case and integrated rubber strap, but it is appealing. Even though the star chart complication is a historical one descended from the Henry Graves Jr. “Supercomplication” and Star Calibre 2000, it feels like a perfect match for the sci-fi case.

The case is huge at 47 mm, but the lack of lugs give it a smaller effective footprint. This, combined with the integrated rubber strap, means the  ref. 6105G wears well though it is a bit heavy. The ref. 6105G is being launched only in white gold; a titanium version would be awesome.

In terms of the movement, the ref. 6105G is typical for Patek Philippe, meaning finely engineered to be thin and sophisticated. The calibre is descended from the earlier generation, but upgraded in several ways, including with the clever mechanisms for sunrise and sunset as well as daylight saving time. The compliant mechanism also stands out for its elegant approach to an age-old concept, resulting in superior precision and less play”.

But as is often the case for Patek Philippe, the user interface is old school, which means a trio of recessed pushers on the case that require a stylus to operate. This is less-than-convenient but not a deal killer.

The compliant mechanism comprising of linear racks for the sunrise and sunset. Image – Patek Philippe

More broadly, the new look of the ref. 6105G actually puts this in a different category of watch, making it an easy substitute for high-end complicated watches with modern styling, think Richard Mille or Hublot, except that the ref. 6105G has the advantage of Patek Philippe’s gravitas and technical know-how. In fact, the ref. 6105G is the only sport(y) watch in the Patek Philippe line-up that’s not an Aquanaut, Nautilus, or Cubitus.

With that comparison in mind, the high price tag seems reasonable because the ref. 6105G is probably a better buy in terms of horological credentials than a similarly priced Richard Mille.

A celestial lineage

The Celestial debuted in 2002 as the ref. 5102. It essentially extracted the star chart display found on the reverse of the Sky Moon Tourbillon launched a year before, and relocated the astronomical display to the front of the watch. Since then it’s been a fixture in the Patek Philippe catalogue, and arguably one of the brand’s best known “Grand Complication” models thanks to its distinctive night-sky dial.

The star chart on the reverse of the Sky Moon Tourbillon ref. 6002R

The ref. 6105G is the third generation Celestial. While it has the familiar star chart on the front, it looks nothing like its predecessors.

While the earlier versions had conventional cases, the ref. 6105 has an oversized, 47 mm case in white gold with no lugs – the integrated rubber straps goes straight into the case middle. As a result, despite the seeming large size, the watch sits well on the wrist. It almost feels like an ergonomic sports watch with an integrated strap, but the weight of the white gold case makes it a little top heavy.

Not only is the case large, it is also adopts an entirely new design language. The flanks of the case has an “X” shaped relief pattern that continues onto the strap and case back. According to Patek Philippe, this was the brainchild of Thierry Stern and inspired by lunar modules and satellites. The look is atypical for Patek Philippe and almost shocking at first sight, but it works – the ref. 6105G looks good.

Fundamentally the ref. 6105G functions just like its predecessors. Time and date are indicated by hands on the front, while the dial itself is a planisphere, in other words a star chart. The planisphere is a typical two-disc construction that has a clear disc with stars over an opaque disc; the rotation of the discs reveal the stars in the night sky through the oval aperture on the upper half of the dial.

The star chart display is calibrated for Geneva, and the official word from Patek Philippe is that this is fixed – there can be no customisation of location for the star chart. Changing the gearing for another location is fairly easy, however, so customisation is possible within reason and Patek Philippe may presumably do it for some (very) important clients.

While I like the design of the case, it feels like more effort could have been out into the hands. All of the hands are basic, with the hour and minute hands being skeletonised batons. Legibility is decent, and the hour and minute hands are solid gold, but they could be a little bit more cohesive with the sci-fi case design.

Sunrise, sunset, and daylight savings

At a glance, the dial of the ref. 6105G looks almost identical to its predecessors. But it differs in a crucial respect: the date scale on the periphery is rotated clockwise such that “31” is no longer located at 12 o’clock as it was on the ref. 6102.

This twist is to accommodate the sunrise and sunset indicators that are both read against the date. The ref. 6105G intelligently uses the date scale to indicate sunrise and sunset, so “5” to “11” is for sunrise while “17” to “23” is for sunset. Sunrise and sunset are indicated by a pair of white pointers, while the date pointer is in red.

The dial above indicates 6th of the current month, sunrise at about 7:50 am, and sunset at about 6:55 pm

The clever twist behind the display is the summer and winter time function. Pushers in the case flank move the hour hand, date scale, and date pointer simultaneously, either backwards or forwards by one step each as daylight saving time starts and ends. The white pointers for sunrise and sunset remain static during this adjustment, since the date ring has moved to account for the change in time.

The ref. 6105G continues to use twin crowns: the upper crown at two o’clock sets the star chart while the lower crown at four winds the movement and sets the time.

The upper crown incorporates a bayonet-lock mechanism to prevent accidental adjustment – the wearer must push down and twist the crown to release it. Pulled out the first position, the crown sets the sunrise and sunset indicators. And in the second, final position, the crown advances the star chart in one direction, and then the moon phase in the other direction.

The right flank of the case features three recessed pushers. The pusher at seven o’clock sets the date, while the nine o’clock pusher advances the sunrise and sunset displays by an hour for summer time, and the pusher at ten o’clock does the opposite for winter time.

Patek Philippe is still a traditionalist when it comes to setting, hence the multiple pushers in the case. This requires a stylus for adjustment, and is less convenient than more advanced crown-based systems. This is arguably one of the weaknesses of the watch, though strictly speaking the pushers only need to be accessed twice a year during daylight saving time, while the date does not need setting since the watch is on a winder.

The trio of pushers. Image – Patek Philippe

The ref. 6105G is one of the few Patek Philippe watches with a solid case back. Instead of a sapphire window the back has a relied pattern that continues the lunar module style of the case. This creates aesthetic continuity; moreover a clear back is probably not necessary since the cal. 240 inside is well known and anyone who owns a ref. 6105G likely owns another Patek Philippe with a visible cal. 240.

Compliant Celestial

The cal. 240 C LU CL LCSO is evolved from the original Celestial calibre, but has an additional 121 parts resulting in an extra 1.12 mm in thickness. This is primarily due to the addition of the sunrise and sunset indicators.

Now several decades old but continually upgraded over the years, the cal. 240 includes a silicon hairspring amongst other upgrades. Most of the upgrades are invisible, possibly including details like optimised teeth profiles and LIGA components. Most notably, the cal. 240 now runs within -1/+2 seconds a day, which is impressive for a movement of this size and age, underlining the modernisation it has enjoyed.

The cal. 240 is a small movement at just 27.5 mm in diameter, while the celestial module is a much larger 38 mm. Image – Patek Philippe

The sunrise and sunset displays are driven by a mechanism with several patents. The core concept is traditional: a pair of kidney-shaped cams control each indicator, with each cam making one full rotation over the course of a year. Each cam has a feeler that “reads” the edge of the cam, translating the position of the cam into sunrise or sunset. The cams are both kidney shaped to account for the different length of days as the seasons change.

The sunrise and sunset mechanism. Image – Patek Philippe 

The novel aspect is the patented double feeler-spindle (in red) linked to the feelers, which is a compliant mechanism of a type that might be a first in watchmaking. Interestingly, Patek Philippe was not the only brand to roll out an innovation centred on a compliant mechanism at W&W 2026; TAG Heuer also did so but with a different type of mechanism for the Evergraph. And going even further back, Patek Philippe already experimented with compliant mechanism (of a different type) with the Aquanaut Advanced Research ref. 5650G of 2017.

Most likely produced via LIGA, a lithography technique, this component incorporates twin linear racks, each guided by a two pairs of exceptionally slim springs that are just 0.48 mm wide, enabling for precise, gradual movement. Because the racks are linked by flexible springs, the mechanism is more precise than a conventional set-up; the linkage eliminates play and parasitic shift.

On the other hand, the summer and winter time adjustment function relies on traditional levers (in blue below) that shift the hands and date ring forwards or backwards as necessary.

An oversized model of the sunrise and sunset mechanism


Key facts and price

Patek Philippe Celestial Sunrise and Sunset
Ref. 6105G-001

Diameter: 47 mm
Height: 12.39 mm
Material: 18k white gold
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: 30 m

Movement: Cal. 240 C LU CL LCSO
Functions: Hours, minutes, date, planisphere, time of sunrise and sunset, date
Frequency: 28,800 beats per hour (4 Hz)
Winding: Automatic
Power reserve: 45 hours

Strap: Rubber with triple-blade clasp

Limited edition: No
Availability:
At Patek Philippe retailers and salons.
Price: US$437,610 excluding taxes

For more, visit Patek.com.


 

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Complicated Collectors: Edgar Mannheimer

A survivor with an instinct for value.

London, 1965. Christie’s had arranged the third and final part of the Sir David Salomons Collection for sale — a sequence of Breguet watches assembled by the Victorian baronet whose obsession with Abraham-Louis Breguet had produced the most important English-language study of the watchmaker’s work. When the bidding closed, one man had bought every lot in the catalogue.

Continuing our ongoing Complicated Collectors series, Edgar Mannheimer left an indelible mark on watch collecting. He was 40 years old, and had settled in Zurich a decade earlier with nothing but the instincts he had developed in the post-war black markets of Germany. He was not a collector in the sense that he did not keep what he bought. What he did, with a consistency and conviction that separated him from every other figure in the mid-century horological trade, was understand, ahead of the market, what something was worth.

The Salomons lots were subsequently divided between two collectors. It was, in miniature, a portrait of how Mannheimer operated: he absorbed the risk, resolved the complexity, and left his clients with the watches.

Neutitschein and Auschwitz

Edgar Mannheimer was born on December 23, 1925, in Neutitschein, Moravia, into a family whose presence in the town was visible and established. His father ran Marsmalz, a confectionery business prominent enough to operate the community’s first delivery van — a small but telling detail about the family’s position within a world where Jewish commercial life and Central European civic identity still intersected with some degree of normality.

The Marsmalz family truck. Image – Mannheimer family.

As a boy, his ambitions ran to racing cars and mechanical engineering. That world ended before he turned 13. After German forces occupied the Sudetenland, his father was arrested during Kristallnacht, and the family fled to Ungarisch-Brod, his mother’s birthplace in Moravia. When the Germans occupied the Protectorate too, flight ceased to be an option. In January 1943, the family was transported to Theresienstadt before being separated and sent on to Auschwitz-Birkenau.

Mannheimer survived through a skill he had learned by chance: shoemaking, acquired informally before the war. In Auschwitz, it kept him alive. He worked first in the prisoners’ cobbler workshop making wooden clogs, then in the SS cobbler workshop repairing leather boots. The work was, as he later said, more bearable than carrying cement at a run.

The Mannheimer family picture, before the holocaust. Edgar, standing, first from the left, with his brother Max next to him, the only survivors. Image – Mannheimer family.

This skill put Mannheimer in a position to trade: shoes against bread, shoes against medicine, shoes against the small interventions that kept others alive as well as himself. His brother Max survived alongside him, but tragically, their two brothers, a sister, and both parents died in the camps.

From Auschwitz, the survivors were transported to Warsaw, then through Dachau and its satellite camp at Allach, and eventually to Mühldorf. Mannheimer emerged in May 1945 at the age of 19, having contracted typhus in Warsaw and spent weeks in a coma. He survived by what he described as a miracle and the help of friends. He weighed a mere 45 kg.

Post-war life

The two brothers who survived took entirely different paths. Max Mannheimer returned to Germany, eventually settling near Munich, and dedicated the rest of his long life to public witness, speaking in schools and universities, chairing the Lagergemeinschaft Dachau, receiving the French Legion of Honour, and inviting Angela Merkel to become the first German chancellor to visit the former Dachau camp. A square in front of the Munich Documentation Center bears his name. He died in September 2016, aged 96.

Edgar went to Switzerland and built one of the most influential careers in the 20th-century art and horological market. Both responses to the same destruction were remarkable. Neither was reducible to the other.

What followed for Edgar was a return to Neutitschein, then departure in 1948 through Israeli connections to Munich, where Max had already been living for two years. In Munich, Edgar began dealing in art and antiques, eventually running a liqueur factory before returning full-time to the trade he had identified as his vocation.

By 1956, Mannheimer was in Zurich, where he married Jeannette Brodheim and began again as an antiques dealer in Switzerland.

The white Cadillac

By the mid-1950s, Zurich had become the fixed point of Mannheimer’s universe. He established himself at Sonneggstrasse 22, using it as both his residence and place of business, and eventually founded Uto Auktionen and the Uto Galerie together with a partner.

His presence in the city was not easily missed. A white Cadillac convertible parked outside the address was sufficient advertisement that Mannheimer was in — a calling card that said everything necessary about the distance he had travelled from post-war Germany and everything about his instinct for theatre.

UTO Auktionen catalogues. Image SJX composite.

That instinct extended to the rostrum. Mannheimer was an unconventional auctioneer in a field that rewarded convention. If an opening bid failed to materialise, he would engage what those who knew him described as a smooth reverse gear, lowering the estimate until a taker appeared, or declaring cheerfully that he had bought the lot himself and would do very well out of it. The performance was deliberate. So was the efficiency beneath it.

Away from the auction room, his methods were similarly direct. Watches, gold boxes, and scientific instruments might surface from his coat pocket with no preamble. His negotiating style dispensed with the velvet-draped presentations of the conventional luxury trade entirely. He stated the price he had paid and the price he wanted, and the transaction either happened or it didn’t.

His wife Jeannette, who accompanied him regularly on buying trips and spoke several languages fluently, provided a formal bridge to clients when needed. Mannheimer’s own Bohemian-Jewish dialect and the sheer force of his presence frequently made her intervention unnecessary.

George Daniels, who knew him across three decades, described him in Michael Clerizo’s biography George Daniels: A Master Watchmaker and His Art as a congenial swashbuckler who brought a flexible and good-humoured interpretation to the rules of the auction room — a man who could drive a hard bargain while maintaining, in all circumstances, his basic honesty.

The art dealer Christian von Faber-Castell, writing in Weltkunst shortly after Mannheimer’s death, identified the same quality from a different angle: Mannheimer had built his international reputation as an expert in old watches, scientific instruments, automata, and cabinet objects not through loupe, tweezers, and fine mechanical tools, but through his highly developed taste and his incorruptible eye.

Daniels went further, observing that he could deal successfully in anything from potatoes to Rolls-Royces without detailed knowledge of the subject. Both remarks point to the same truth: his genius lay in reading situations rather than mechanisms.

Clash of the titans

That intelligence operated in multiple directions. Clerizo records how Edward Hornby described two episodes that illustrated Mannheimer’s command of the auction room environment. In the first, Hornby and Daniels devised a coordinated strategy: Hornby opened the bidding and drove the price upward to draw Mannheimer in, then made a conspicuous show of withdrawing, shaking his head, walking out and dropping his catalogue as he went, signalling to Mannheimer that the competition had collapsed.

Daniels entered immediately from the other side of the room as what appeared to be a fresh bidder. The auctioneer, seeing a new arrival, called a new bid; Mannheimer, believing the room had changed, stepped back. They secured the piece for considerably less than he would have paid.

In the second episode, at Sotheby’s, Hornby bid on behalf of Daniels up to his limit of £1,200 on a watch that Mannheimer ultimately won at £1,500. When they returned after coffee, a complication with another lot had arisen, and Mannheimer offered Daniels the watch at £1,200. Daniels suspected the accommodation was not without its own logic: Mannheimer held a similar piece in Zurich, and a public price of £1,500 at Sotheby’s was all he needed.

Diverse interests

His eye for quality was never confined to horology. At Sotheby’s in 1973 he paid £160,000 for an Augsburg silver-mounted centre table, a record at the time and a signal that he was operating across the full spectrum of the high-end art market. Five years later, at the same house, he acquired a Romanesque ivory medallion carved around 1100 in southern Italy, part of a twelfth-century shrine destroyed during the French Revolution, for £506,000. The piece went to the Landesmuseum in Stuttgart.

Mannheimer was not merely buying for private clients; he acted as a trusted intermediary for German state institutions, outbidding international dealers to secure objects he had determined belonged in public collections. It was the same instinct that drove his horological practice, the conviction that matching the right object to the right destination was a matter of judgment, and that judgment was his particular gift.

Engel and Atwood

Among the collectors who passed through Mannheimer’s orbit, none depended on him more completely than Thomas Engel. The relationship began in London and consolidated in Zurich, where Mannheimer had become the indispensable gateway to Breguet at the highest level.

Engel was a scientist and inventor — systematic, evidence-driven, allergic to approximation. Mannheimer was his opposite in almost every outward respect: intuitive, theatrical, operating on conviction rather than method. The partnership worked precisely because of that difference.

Thomas Engel (left) and Edgar Mannheimer. Image – Thomas Engel

Engel knew what he wanted. Mannheimer knew how to get it without revealing who wanted it.
The auction room required discretion. Dealers who might have pressed against a private collector stepped back when Mannheimer raised the paddle. His reputation was sufficient cover.

Behind it, Engel built a collection of Breguets that would eventually rank among the most significant ever assembled, and which, without Mannheimer, would have looked considerably different. Engel acknowledged as much directly: without him, he admitted, many of the watches would never have come his way.

In his tribute published in Uhren shortly after Mannheimer’s death, he went further: there were watches he knew of that would have ended up in the melting pot had Mannheimer not recognised their value and saved them.

That dependence was structural, not merely transactional. Mannheimer was in contact with every significant collector of the period, including European aristocratic estates, American industrial wealth, and private physicians in New York with watches inherited from naval officers.

He was the node through which information, provenance, and opportunity circulated. A collector working without him was working with an incomplete map.

The reach of that arrangement extended across the Atlantic. When Seth Atwood, the Chicago-based industrialist and founder of the Time Museum, came into possession of a group of Breguets that Engel had failed to secure directly from their New York owner, Mannheimer flew to meet him.

Seth Atwood, founder of the Time Museum. Image – Rockford Star

The two men divided the watches in a hotel room. To determine who would choose first, Mannheimer produced a coin and flipped it. It rolled across the carpet and disappeared under the bed. Both men dropped to the floor to retrieve it. Mannheimer won the toss and, acting on Engel’s instructions, made the first selections. By the time he called Frankfurt to report, the watches Engel had wanted were secured.

Beyond Breguet

Mannheimer’s influence was never limited to a single category. While his trade in Breguet watches formed the backbone of his reputation, the breadth of what passed through Uto Auktionen from its first sale in 1974 reflected a dealer whose curiosity extended wherever mechanical ingenuity and exceptional provenance converged.

The auction catalogues from those years read as a sustained argument about what mattered in the history of the mechanical object. A Janvier mantel clock appeared in 1976; the celebrated Houriet tourbillon two years later. A Breguet table clock with equation of time in 1979; the Sympathique No. 222 in 1981.

The Breguet Sympathique clock No. 222. Image SJX composite.

In 1983, a Ferdinand Berthoud precision regulator passed through his hands, followed shortly by a musical longcase clock signed Bovenschen, housed in a Roentgen cabinet. Each sale was an event, and the each accompanying catalogue was as much a scholarly treatise as it was a sales brochure.

Among the most significant artifacts he brought to the international market were pieces from the collection of Gustave Loup. Born in 1876 and a long-time resident of China, Loup had acquired timepieces from the imperial collection at the Summer Palace in Chengde — objects produced during the golden era of Geneva enamel work (1780–1840), when the workshops of Henry Capt, Jaquet Droz, and Piguet & Meylan were producing mechanical and decorative works of extraordinary refinement specifically for the Chinese market.

These were not watches as European collectors generally understood them. They were intricate machines designed to imitate living things and pastoral scenes, with moving figures including birds with ivory beaks that rose from oval lids to sing.

Through Uto Auktionen, Mannheimer introduced this subject matter to Western collectors who had no prior framework for valuing it. A consecutively numbered pair of four-colour gold and pearl singing bird snuff boxes by Frères Rochat, sold at Uto in November 1982, stands as one example of the level at which he was operating in this category. The market for such pieces has seen extraordinary growth in the decades since, but Mannheimer was there first.

Not a Rochat, but an example of a singing bird automaton from Patek Philippe, manufactured by Bruguier.

His approach to provenance underpinned everything. An object with documents and a clear history was, in his view, more reliable than money or stocks — a conviction that shaped not only his own dealings but the standards he set for the market around him.

Paintings could be forged, but watches with certificates and verifiable ledger entries could not be argued away. This forensic attitude to documentation — applied consistently across two decades of cataloguing — is why the appearance of Uto Auktionen provenance in a current sale at Sotheby’s or Phillips still carries weight. Mannheimer’s 1980 volume dedicated to Patek Philippe, Uhren von Patek Philippe, remains a foundational reference for anyone tracing the provenance of early grand complications.

Im Sonnenbühl

Away from the auction rooms and the suitcases of watches, Mannheimer had built something more deliberate. He married Jeannette Brodheim in 1956, and their three daughters became the centre of his private life. He rarely spoke to them of the camps, choosing to shield them from what he had survived rather than make his past their burden.

The country he chose for that life was not accidental. In an interview recorded in 1986, Mannheimer recalled that during the six weeks of quarantine in Birkenau, which he described as worse than the 28 months that followed, he dreamed every night of running to Switzerland. It was, he said, almost always the same dream.

The house at Uetliberg, Im Sonnenbühl, near Zurich. Image – Mannheimer family.

He knew almost nothing about the country: only that it was clean, and that it produced chocolate, cheese, and watches. In his dreams, he would be running toward the border and would be woken, each time, by the dogs of the SS. Four decades later, settled in Zurich, he reflected that his subconscious had somehow made that dream real. The objects he would spend his career trading had been present in his imagination during the worst weeks of his life.

The house he acquired on the Uetliberg, Im Sonnenbühl, with its garden and its distance from the city below, was the physical expression of that long-carried dream: an idyllic retreat, as far as possible from the world that had destroyed his family. His daughter Jacqueline lives there still.

To his colleagues in the trade, the man who emerged each morning from Sonnenbühl was a burly figure with white curly hair who dominated auction rooms with equal parts authority and theatre. Some of them knew the full weight of what he carried. Occasionally, in the context of a deal or a conversation about trust and value, he would roll up his sleeve and show them the tattoo on his arm. He made no speech about it. He didn’t need to.

Christie’s, 1993

Facing declining health, Mannheimer sold Uto Auktionen to Prince Albrecht von Hohenzollern in 1988. The firm he had built from the first auction in 1974 passed into other hands. Under its new ownership, Uto pivoted away from watches, jewellery, and antiques toward modern and contemporary paintings.

The pivot failed. By August 1990, Uto Auktionen had filed for insolvency. The trade press noted the particular sadness of the situation: the firm’s collapse now attached a sour note to the name of the man who had led its auctions like almost no other.

Mannheimer himself had withdrawn from active business five years before his death. When Thomas Engel visited him in Zurich a few days before the end, he found him mentally fully active despite his serious illness. They spent many hours in conversation about watches and old times. It was, Engel wrote afterwards, only when he left that he understood he had seen him for the last time.

Despite his ill health, Mannheimer appeared at Christie’s in London in May 1993 for what would be the last time. The lot that closed his career was not a Breguet or a Patek Philippe or a piece of Chinese imperial automata. It was a 19th-century mechanical calculator made by the German craftsman Johann Christoph Schuster, estimated at between £15,000 and £20,000. Mannheimer bid £7.7 million.

The 19th-century mechanical calculator made by the German craftsman Johann Christoph Schuster, here on a German postage stamp. Image – Wikimedia.

The figure was roughly 350 times the estimate. It outlasted a determined underbidder said to be representing a German museum. But when the 30-day payment period passed without the money arriving, the firm confronted an outcome considerably less comfortable than a record sale.

Speculation circulated that Mannheimer had crossed wires with a collector who had subsequently decided not to go that high, but those who had seen him in the room that day offered a different account, ascribing his behaviour to the effects of the medication required for the treatment of his declining health.

He died on December 26, 1993, three days after his 68th birthday. The mystery of what he intended that afternoon in Christie’s was never resolved. It is perhaps sufficient to observe that the man who in 1965 had walked out of the same auction room having purchased an entire catalogue of important Breguets — and who left a permanent imprint on watch collecting — simply ran out of time.

“His death denied other dealers much excitement and speculation, and the rooms are quieter for his absence.” — George Daniels


 

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