Kollokium Introduces the luminous Projekt 01 Variant F

Turn off the lights

Known for its quirky pixelated dials and brutalist die-cast cases, Kollokium has introduced the Projekt 01 Variant F, which takes the brand’s signature dial and elevates it with hundreds of individual Lichtblock lume elements. The violet lume elements feature various sizes and heights, and are clustered around the even-numbered hour markers to provide a degree of legibility. It’s a striking look, especially when the lights go out and the lume can truly shine.

Founded in 2020 by Manuel Emch, Barth Nussbaumer, and Amr Sindi, Kollokium has released a total of six models since inception. All models to-date have used roughly the same 40 mm die-cast steel case and the same basic design concept. The Variant F is a limited edition of 399 pieces and will be available directly from Kollokium and its authorised dealers in June 2025.

Initial thoughts

After years collecting watches, it’s easy to feel like every new watch is a remake of something else, because for many brands, especially towards the lower end of the price spectrum, that tends to be true. So it’s refreshing when a new brand like Kollokium manages to create a recognisable and distinctive aesthetic from day 1.

The Variant F features the same 40 mm die-cast steel case as previous Kollokium models, but the water resistance has been increased from 30 m to 50 m. To clear the taller hand stack, the box-shaped crystal is also a bit higher, adding about a millimeter to the overall height, which is now 11.95 mm. The choice of die-cast steel for the case is counterintuitive, but it absolutely works. Die-cast metal is something I associate with mass-produced children’s toys, but Kollokium has used it to good effect emphasising the rough-hewn finish as a conscious design choice.

Of course, the star attraction of the Variant F is its dial, which is made up of 488 hand-applied luminous pin elements in 6 different sizes, with clusters of larger elements to denote the hours. This theme borrows from previous Kollokium watches, but the concept has been elevated with the use of solid Lichtblock dial elements, which are semi-translucent and glow from all sides. The violet shade of lume is particularly striking and contributes to the Variant F’s futuristic aesthetic.

Kollokium is refreshingly candid about not being ‘watchmakers’ as the term is typically understood, so the brand turned to La Joux-Perret to supply the simple automatic caliber G101. A drop-in alternative to the ETA 2824, the G101 offers a healthy 68-hour power reserve that should make for a convenient and affordable long-term ownership experience.

Affordable watches tend to be fairly generic; the Variant F is anything but. And while it’s still a pretty good deal for what it is, it’s the brand’s most expensive watch to-date at CHF3,666.66. Given the Variant F’s arresting design it’s probably worth the splurge over the previous models, but as the price increases, so does the competitive landscape.

The dial is lit

The Variant F is distinguished by its dial, which features a violet-coloured dial plate embellished with 488 luminous hybrid ceramic-polymer pin elements infused with an unprecedented amount of Super-LumiNova, . The brand shared that it was difficult to develop luminous elements in different sizes that all glow at a similar brightness, which is a necessity of the design.

To create this effect, the brand turned to RC Tritec, which has developed luminous solutions for brands like HYT, Panerai, and IWC. The solution developed for Kollokium is called Lichtblock, and the result is spectacular; each dial element reminds me of a battery powered flameless candle.

The biggest difference between the Variant F and previous Variants is the fact that each dial element glows in its entirety; previous models used solid tubes filled with luminous material, so only the top-most surface glowed.

Focusing on the right things

As a design-focused brand, Kollokium keeps things simple when it comes to the movement, which is an off-the-shelf La Joux-Perret G101, hidden behind a solid case back. This is a great choice for a watch like this, offering stable performance thanks to its 4 Hz rate and a surprisingly long 68-hour power reserve. Beyond the spec sheet, the movement should be relatively easy and cost-effective to service and repair.

Key facts and price

Kollokium Projekt 01 Variant “F”

Diameter: 40 mm
Height: 11.95 mm
Material: Stainless steel
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: 50 m

Movement: La Joux-Perret G101
Features: Hours, minutes and seconds
Frequency: 28,800 beats per hour (4 Hz)
Winding: Automatic
Power reserve: 68 hours

Strap: Elastic textile single-piece strap with “hook” buckle in die-cast steel

Limited edition: 399 pieces
Availability: Direct from Kollokium and authorised dealers starting June 11, 2025
Price: CHF3,666.66 excluding taxes

For more, visit Kollokium.com.

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Seiko’s Affordable Presage Gets an “Unglazed Porcelain” Dial

A new take on Arita porcelain.

Seiko has introduced a new addition to its line of affordable dress watches, the Presage Craftsmanship “Unglazed Arita Porcelain” ref. SPB497. This limited edition retains the accessible pricing the Presage is known for, but is more than just affordable.

Unlike previous models with glossy porcelain dials, this has a matte texture that enhances the rhombus patterned surface, traditionally a symbol of prosperity and health in Japan.

Initial Thoughts

When Seiko launched the first enamel-dialed Presage in 2013, it was an incredible value. In the years since, Seiko has expanded the range with more ambitious designs, and other materials such as Arita porcelain and Urushi lacquer, though the dial decoration techniques employed are uniformly traditional and Japanese.

While the Presage models are still accessibly priced, this new model is US$1,850. The price tag is no longer the most compelling aspect but the dials themselves are still interesting in themselves.

Unglazed porcelain dials are already almost non-existent, and the diamond pattern makes it even more interesting. Supporting traditional craft arts is also admirable, and has seen great success in the Swiss watch industry, albeit at a much higher price point.

The new model employs the familiar Presage case, which is on the large side for a simple, dress watch, and the 27 mm diameter movement could easily fit into a smaller case. However, since a larger case also means a larger dial, it can be forgiven.

Unglazed Dial

Arita porcelain is typically glazed for a glossy finish seen on previous Presage dials, this new technique leaves the porcelain unglazed, resulting in a matte texture with a soft white hue.

This approach adds warmth and texture to the dial but also highlights intricate three-dimensional patterns more prominently. According to Seiko, the textured rhombus pattern is an auspicious motif that symbolizes prosperity and health in Japanese culture.

The matte dial is paired with highly polished gilt indices and hands, which create a strong contrast against the matte white dial. This is only notable as most previous Arita porcelain dials were paired with printed Roman numerals, which wouldn’t work with the textured dial.

The pattern is three-dimensional and created using a mold. The dials are made by an Arita-based porcelain workshop that Seiko doesn’t name but has been operating since 1830. The dials are made by one of its in-house craftsmen who has come to specialise in watch dials.

The porcelain used is specially formulated to be significantly more durable than traditional Arita porcelain, so the watch should be well suited for daily knocks and shocks.

Case and Caliber

The case is fairly compact by Seiko standards, at 40.6 mm in diameter and 12.5 mm tall. It’s detailed but not overstyled, with polished bevels that spill over onto the brushed lug hoods, and a slightly stepped-in conical bezel.

This case style has been used in other Presage models with special dials. It’s been given a sapphire crystal, super-hard Diashield coating for scratch resistance, and 100 m of water resistance for added resilience.

Inside is cal. 6R51, which is a true no-date movement without a so-called “phantom” date. While modest in looks, it boasts a three-day power reserve and uses a skeletonized MEMS escapement produced via lithography, which is rarely found at this price point.