Seiko Adds Another Affordable Fired Enamel Dial to the Presage

Modelled after the brand's first pocket watch.

A tribute to Seiko’s first-ever pocket watch dating to 1895, the Presage Craftsmanship Series SPB495 boasts a white fired enamel dial with elongated Roman numerals, a style typical of pocket watches during the turn of the century. As is tradition for the Presage Craftsmanship series, the fired enamel dial is produced in the workshop of Mitsuru Yokosawa in the traditional way, firing the enamel glaze in a high-temperature kiln, while staying accessible with a retail price of US$1,400.

Initial thoughts

Seiko has released numerous re-creations of its first wristwatch, the Laurel of 1913, including the recent Presage “Porter Classic” SPB449. However, with the SPB495, the brand now goes back even further to its first pocket watch, which is marking its 130th anniversary this year. Notably, this uses the revamped Presage case that’s a little smaller and slimmer than earlier generations. The case is still a little big for a dress watch, but acceptable and also necessary due to the size of the movement.

The dial is typical of 19th century pocket watches and extremely classical, even by the standards of the classical Presage series. It’s basically another option for someone who appreciates the cost-performance offering of the Presage.

Staying in the usual sweet spot for pricing of the Presage Craftsmanship Series, the SPB495 is priced competitively at US$1,400. Although it’s pricier than the base-model Presage offerings, the price is more than justified by the fired enamel dial and higher-spec automatic movement with a 72-hour power reserve.

Enamel dial

Coated with a “super-hard coating” for additional scratch resistance, the steel case measures 40.2mm in diameter and 12.1mm in thickness. It’s identical to the case employed in recent Presage models and features alternating brushed and polished surfaces.

The highlight of the SPB495 is the refined white enamel dial with elongated black Roman numerals and a traditional railway minute track. A noteworthy detail is the sunken centre of the dial, which is a historical detail found in pocket watches. The dial indicates the time on the central hands, along with a 24-hour indicator at the six o’clock position – this is not a second time zone; it is synchronised with the central hands and not independently adjustable.

Powering the SPB495 is the self-winding cal. 6R5H, which beats at a 21,600 beats per hour (3 Hz) and offers 72-hour of power reserve, one of the higher-end movements used in Seiko’s affordable watches.