After teasing collectors with the compact Chronomètre Furtif Bleu in 2023, F.P. Journe has unveiled its successor, the Chronomètre Furtif (CF). The CF offers the same dimensions as its predecessor as well as a similar laser-engraved grand feu enamel dial, but takes the idea of furtif, or “stealthy”, even further with black-on-black livery.

While the CF Bleu was a one-off piece in tantalum made for the Only Watch charity auction where it sold for CHF2 million, the new CF is a regular production model crafted almost entirely from scratch-resistant tungsten carbide.

Initial thoughts

The CF is a watch that hits you over the head with its intense darkness and exceptional weight. It’s not dark in the same way as an H. Moser & Cie. Venturer Vantablack, which effectively absorbs light; rather, the dial is a deep glossy black like the glass of an iPhone screen. This reflectivity makes it difficult to photograph but easy to enjoy.

These characteristics are thanks to the flawless black grand feu enamel dial and laser-engraved markings. Because of the way the light plays across the dial, it looks slightly different from almost every angle. It’s a dramatic and interactive dial that contributes significantly to the overall wearing experience.

The CF is a true heavyweight, tipping the scales at 250 g. But it feels even heavier on account of its wearable 42 mm footprint and slim 9.55 mm thickness. This size-to-weight ratio gives it an almost overwhelming sense of density.

The watch is powered by the cal. 1522 first seen in the CF Bleu, but the movement has now entered regular production. Loosely based on the well-known cal. 1304, the movement features a reworked gear train that directly drives a central seconds hand, which is not something we’re used to seeing from F.P. Journe. Otherwise, it’s a typical F.P. Journe caliber with 18k rose gold plates and bridges and quirky details like a photorealistic moon phase display visible through the case back.

The CF’s unique heaviness, outstanding proportions, and stealthy look should make it popular among F.P. Journe collectors, despite its retail price of CHF85,000. The brand continues to follow its founder’s singular vision, and this authenticity clearly resonates.

Back in black

Surprising for a brand that owns its own enamel dial workshop, the CF is the first regular production F.P. Journe watch with a full dial in enamel. The first was technically the one-off CF Bleu, but otherwise the brand has only used enamel for sub-dials.

The enamel dial of the Tourbillon Souverain Vertical. Image – F.P. Journe

The dial is anthracite grey grand feu enamel on a white gold base, counter-enameled on its reverse side to prevent warping. While technically grey, the dial appears black, blending in perfectly with the sand-blasted black case.

Rather than being painted or applied as in the norm, the dial markings are engraved with a laser that cuts through the polished upper layers of enamel, revealing a frosted surface underneath. This black-on-black treatment means that at some angles the markings disappear entirely, requiring a slight twist of the wrist to expose them.

Because of the the high-tech industrial etching process, the markings are eerily perfect in a way that ordinary tampography cannot achieve. Combined with the mirror-like dial surface, the overall effect exudes quality and demonstrates the mastery of both traditional and contemporary techniques at Les Cadraniers de Genève, the dial manufacturer owned by F.P. Journe.

The black enamel is extremely well made, and it’s clear that special effort has gone into the polishing stages, which many brands neglect. To achieve a truly flawless surface that isn’t wavy, the dial must be ground against a number of increasingly fine polishing wheels, similar to the way that eye glass lenses are made. Dials that have not been adequately polished can be spotted by the orange peel-like texture that reveals itself at certain angles.

The only bit of contrast is offered by the rhodium-plated steel hour and minute hands, and the white painted central seconds hand. The hands are distinctly Journe, and being the only non-black elements, they stand out in a way that will make the watch instantly recognisable to those familiar with the F.P. Journe aesthetic.

It goes hard

Part of what makes the CF interesting is its weight. The CF’s case and bracelet are made of tungsten carbide, which is 16% heavier than tantalum and equivalent in weight to 24k gold. Its density makes it a great material for components like automatic winding rotors, which benefit from extra weight.

But unlike gold, tungsten carbide is extremely hard. The specific material used for the CF has a vickers rating of 1350, which is an order of magnitude harder than more common materials like steel.

These properties make it extremely difficult to machine. While this is a common refrain in the watch industry, most often heard when discussing platinum and tantalum cases, tungsten carbide is so hard that it can only be machined with diamond-tipped milling tools.

That it exists at all is a testament to the capabilities of Les Boîtiers de Genève (BDG), the brand’s in-house case and bracelet facility. And production will not be limited. F.P. Journe expects to make up to 100 pieces of the CF annually, a number that will keep the machinists at BDG pretty busy. An insider, however, has revealed that at least initially, annual production won’t reach the goal of 100 watches.

But as tough as it is, tungsten carbide has been used before in both jewelry and watchmaking. In fact, Rado created the first tungsten carbide watch all the way back in 1962. But a high-end independent brand like F.P. Journe doing it in 2025 feels about as unexpected as Audemars Piguet’s 1972 launch of the Royal Oak in stainless steel.

The bleu-print

One of the things that makes the CF so unexpected is simply that it’s not tantalum. F.P. Journe does not have a monopoly on tantalum cases, but it brought the material into the mainstream with the popular Chronomètre Bleu.

The unique Chronomètre Furtif Bleu

The brand turned to tantalum again for the case and bracelet of the CF Bleu, but rather than continue with this tried-and-true material for the regular production CF, F.P. Journe decided to use tungsten carbide, which looks similar but requires even more effort. It’s the kind of choice that only a truly independent brand would make.

I would be remiss to not point out there are a few tantalum components on the CF, namely the crown, case back, lower bezel, clasp, and the lineSport’s signature ‘bumper’ on the left side of the case. But these are merely accents on an otherwise tungsten carbide watch, there to provide a glossy contrast to the matte finish of the case and bracelet.

The weight of the watch will feel especially pronounced to anyone who’s worn titanium watches from the same collection, which feature an almost identical matte black sand-blasted finish but feel completely different on the wrist. The titanium Octa Sport, for example, features a very similar design, and despite being larger at 44 mm and 11 mm thick, weighs a whopping 72% less.

For all-day wearing comfort, I prefer the lighter weight of titanium for a watch like this, but at the same time appreciate the reassuring heft offered by the tungsten carbide. The proportions of the CF give it surprisingly good wearability despite the weight. And this material will also keep the CF looking like new almost indefinitely, which is a significant benefit.

As expected, the overall fit and finish of the CF is excellent, and the entire watch feels truly indestructible. Even the clasp is finely executed, with ceramic ball bearing detents that secure it with reassuring solidity.

F.P. Journe’s titanium lineSport watches feature a similar look but feel weightless by comparison

Dark side of the moon phase

Unlike some previous F.P. Journe models that followed in the footsteps of an Only Watch piece unique, the CF’s movement is identical to that of its predecessor.

The cal. 1522 is notable for the brand’s first central seconds movement, though it is clearly adapted from the earlier cal. 1304. The architecture of the barrel bridge, for example, is nearly identical. However, the movement is not laid out in an almost linear fashion, with the balance sitting in-line with the crown and centre wheels.

And the cal. 1522 is wider, which makes space for a reworked gear train with a directly driven central seconds hand. This arrangement dispenses with the tension spring required by an indirect central seconds hand, preserving more energy for the free-sprung balance.

The movement features a power reserve indicator and, surprisingly, a moon phase display visible through the transparent case back. Both of these features were present on the CF Bleu, but the moon phase, while perfect for a one-off, seemed too quirky for regular production. F.P. Journe believes otherwise, and I’m happy to see this strange detail live on.

Contributing to the weight of the watch, the movement is constructed from 18k rose gold, like most F.P. Journe movements. The finishing is unusually good and proves that the brand continues to get better with time. One of the nicest details is the sweeping arc of the convex edge of the full balance bridge (a first for the brand), which allows the anglage to really glow.

Closing thoughts

The Chronomètre Furtif is a watch that, at least for now, truly lives up to its name. In other words, it’s not immediately recognisable as a luxury watch. While black-on-black watches had their moment, which has now passed, F.P. Journe has managed to elevate this concept through sheer craftsmanship and execution.

Ironically, the CF’s all-black look is distinctive in a way that might eventually make it iconic, rendering it anything but stealthy. But even so, the tungsten carbide case and bracelet will outlast time itself.

Key facts and price

F.P. Journe Chronomètre Furtif
Ref. CF

Diameter: 42 mm
Height: 9.5 mm
Material: Tungsten carbide with case back, bumper, bezel, and crown in tantalum
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: 30 meters

Movement: Cal. 1522
Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds, power reserve and moon phase
Winding: Manual
Frequency: 21,600 beats per hour
Power reserve: 56 hours

Strap: Tungsten carbide flat-link bracelet with tantalum clasp cap

Limited edition: No
Availability: At F.P. Journe boutiques and retailers
Estimate: CHF85,000 before taxes

For more information, visit Fpjourne.com.