In the run up to Watches & Wonders 2025, many commentators expected a breakout year for the GMT-Master II, since it’s the 80th year of the collection. But Rolex took things in a different direction and dominated headlines by launching the Land-Dweller instead. But Rolex didn’t forget about its signature travel watch, and debuted two new precious metal models.

The first is the GMT-Master II ref. 126729VTNR, which is in 18k white gold with a left-handed crown and a green ceramic dial; a first for Rolex. The second is the GMT-Master II ref. 126715CHNR in Everose that brings a new dial material to Rolex, tiger iron, one of the oldest minerals on Earth. Both models are available exclusively with an Oyster bracelet in matching 18k gold.

The “lefty” with its glossy green ceramic dial

Initial thoughts

I admit to being laser-focused on the Land-Dweller during Watches & Wonders; the new movement technology captured (and held) my attention throughout the event. But I still made time to check out the GMT-Master II collection, which was one of my favourite Rolex collections at one point in time.

Naturally, both of these new references exude quality, which can be experienced directly in the smooth operation of the bezel and the decisive action of the clasp. The watches are decadent, heavy, and show that Rolex has not run out of ideas for interesting dials. In the case of the green ceramic dial in the “destro” variant, I think we can expect to see this material used more widely in the future.

But these watches are variants of existing models, so the attention is on what makes them different: their dials. The new green ceramic dial looks better up close than in images, and is probably a sign of things to come at Rolex.

The Everose model’s tiger iron dial, in contrast, is all about the past, being billions of years old. This naturally occurring polychromatic stone makes for an interesting dial that is very dynamic in different lighting and is a reasonably priced upgrade from the standard model.

Detail of the dial in tiger iron, a rock composed of three minerals

Both new references use the existing GMT-Master II case and Oyster bracelet, making them 40 mm and 11.9 mm thick. In full 18k gold, the watches are heavy but manageable.

Unfortunately, they lack the brand’s adjustable Glidelock clasp, and instead come with the simpler Easylink clasp which is adjustable in just one 5 mm increment. A small quibble, but as the weight of a watch increases, so too does the importance of a good fit.

Inside, both watches are powered by the existing cal. 3285 ‘flyer’ GMT movement. While the cal. 32xx series movements had some early teething issues, Rolex’s commitment to the platform mean they’ve been resolved. Despite not being Rolex’s most advanced movement anymore, the GMT-Master II calibre remains best-in-class among movements with a GMT complication.

In 18k white gold, the green ceramic model costs US$46,750, while the Everose model with its tiger iron dial is US$49,400. These are reasonable increases, up just US$1,550 and US$4,200 respectively, compared to the equivalent existing GMT-Master II models with ordinary, brass dials.

Old brand, new tricks

Most Rolex dials are made of electroplated brass, which are then lacquered and finished off with a layer of clear varnish. This is what gives them their deep, glossy finish. The brand has mastered numerous other dial-making techniques as well, and produces its own dials in the Chêne-Bourg district of suburban Geneva.

Dial lacquer at Rolex. Image – Rolex

Despite its mastery of traditional techniques, the ref. 126729 VTNR’s ceramic dial is a first for Rolex. This is actually a bit surprising given their relentless focus on long-life materials and 15+ years’ experience working with ceramic.

Omega has been using ceramic dials to good effect for more than a decade, albeit mainly in dark colours, since the material is almost impossible to scratch and provides an eerily perfect glossy surface.

With benefits like these, it makes sense for Rolex to follow this path, and it seems inevitable that we will see this material diffuse throughout the the Rolex line-up once the brand is ready to scale production beyond this specific reference.

In the case of the ref. 126729 VTNR, the green tone of the dial is the same colour and texture as the green portion of the ceramic bezel insert.

While I still find the left-handed case a bit weird, the green tone is darker and less garish than the early renderings made it appear. The shade is pleasing and reminds me of the famous green jacket awarded to winners of The Masters golf tournament. As is often the case with ceramic, achieving a bright colour, rather than a dark and dull one, was one of the key challenges in fabricating the dial material.

Multi mineral

The new Everose GMT offers a more conventional setup with its crown at three o’clock, and is functionally identical to the existing GMT-Master II ref. 26715CHNR “Root Beer” . The only difference is the tiger iron dial, but what a difference it makes.

Tiger iron is a natural stone comprised of three separate minerals: tiger’s eye, red jasper, and hematite. The stone is mined in western Australia, from one of the oldest rock formations on Earth, which dates back about three billion years. This unique origin gives it a more interesting backstory than a typical stamped-and-lacquered brass dial.

Up close, the dial is rich in texture. It’s a bit overwhelming at first, but it’s grown on me. To my eye, the blend of minerals, which were compressed together into tight bands millennia ago, resembles petrified wood, and offers the depth and grain of a natural material. While stone dials are increasingly common, Rolex has found a way to keep things interesting.

Behind their solid case backs, both watches are powered by the brand’s latest GMT movement, the cal. 3285. This is a 4 Hz ‘flyer’ GMT movement, meaning the user can advance the local time in one-hour increments while the 24-hour GMT hand stays fixed on home time.

While certainly one of the most advanced movements in the industry, with the brand’s proprietary Chronergy lever escapement and Parachrom overcoil hairspring, I can’t shake the feeling that the movement now feels a bit dated next to the latest generation Rolex calibers with silicon hairsprings and the new Dynapulse escapement.

The cal. 3285. Image – Rolex

Closing thoughts

For 80 years, Rolex has offered the best simple GMT complication on the market. This leading position has been maintained thanks to the brand’s methodical, iterative approach to product design, and by staying focused on fundamental quality from the base plate on up.

These new references are not revolutionary and will likely not be any collector’s first foray into Rolex, but they are nonetheless distinctive additions to the collection. And as is typical for Rolex, they are priced a little more than their predecessors, but not too much, making the price arguably just right.

Key facts and price

Rolex GMT-Master II
Ref. 126729VTNR (white gold, green ceramic)
Ref. 126715CHNR (Everose gold, tiger iron)

Diameter: 40 mm
Height: 11.9 mm
Material: 18k white gold
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: 100 m

Movement: Cal. 3285
Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds, date, and GMT
Winding: Automatic
Frequency: 28,800 beats per hour (4 Hz)
Power reserve: 70 hours

Strap: Oyster bracelet in 18k white or Everose gold

Limited edition: No
Availability: Available at Rolex boutiques and retailers starting April 2025
Price: US$46,750 for ref. 126729VTNR; and US$49,400 for ref. 126715CHNR (prices before taxes)

For more, visit Rolex.com.