Sarpaneva returns to the Swedish comic, but this with a twist: the Moomin 80 features a skeletonised steel dial with a “shooting star” aperture that reveals the hours on a rotating disc.

Making its debut in two versions, the latest Moomin edition retains the signature elements of its predecessors, including the familiar Sarpaneva case with flared flanks and a hand-finished dial filled with multi-coloured Super-Luminova. As with the Sarpaneva x Moomin release four years ago, the dial draws inspiration from a comic book scene.

Initial thoughts

This is the third Moomin edition, with the last one, a diver’s watch, launched a year ago. It would have been repetitive if this was instead a rehash with a different scene on the dial, but the latest edition stands out for the unique hour display. Although the hours are mechanically straightforward, it is different enough to make this distinct from the preceding Moomin models.

Priced at €13,500, the Moomin 80 costs a little more than the earlier version that was €12,000. The price remains competitive considering the overall craftsmanship, most of which lies in the hand-finished dial that is also painted by hand. Both the rotor and case are also high quality and made in-house by Sarpaneva, adding to the value proposition.

The two versions of the Moomin 80

Intricate dial works

The Moomin 80 employs the trademark Sarpaneva case made of Finnish stainless steel. It’s chunky but appropriately sized and creates a coherent aesthetic.

It’s paired with an intricate, multi-layer dial that is first cut by laser and then finished by hand. The motif is finally filled with Super-Luminova in various colours, making this something to observe in the dark. The dial design is inspired a page from Comet in Moominland, and depicts sleeping Moons against vegetation with a “shooting star” within the hour window.

The Moomin 80 is available in two variants: one that is monochromatic during the day and the other multi-coloured. Both, however, glow in multiple colours in the dark.

The watch is powered by the self-winding Soprod A10, which beats at 28,800 beats per hour (4 Hz) and offers 42 hours of power reserve.

The movement is decorated, but its key feature is the stainless steel rotor that’s hand finished like the dial. The open-worked oscillating weight bears the Sarpaneva Moonface emblem that is filled with Super-Luminova as well.

Key facts and price

Sarpaneva Moomin 80

Diameter: 42 mm
Thickness: 11.4 mm
Material: Steel
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: 100 m

Movement: Soprod A10
Functions: Hours and minutes
Winding: Automatic
Frequency: 28,800 beats per hour (4 Hz)
Power reserve: 42 hours

Strap: Leather in various colors with pin buckle

Limited edition: 30 pieces per colour
Availability: Direct from Sarpaneva
Price: €13,500 before taxes

For more, visit Studiosarpaneva.com.

Grand Seiko’s latest offering is unusual – it’s a 30 mm self-winding model specifically conceived for ladies, in contrast to the vast majority of the Grand Seiko catalogue that’s made up of men’s or mid-sized watches. The Heritage Collection 62GS Mechanical 30 mm measures just 10.5 mm thick, making it the brand’s slimmest mechanical model to date. Notably, the new 62GS pair, STGK031 and STGK033, are the first to adopt a case design found on men’s watches, refining it for a smaller format as a ladies model.

Initial thoughts

In my view, the 62GS case stands out as the most appealing configuration in Grand Seiko’s extensive lineup. While it retains a distinctly Japanese design heritage, it remains one of the few Grand Seiko models that blends vintage and modern styles. As an owner of the 40 mm 62GS, I can personally attest to its versatility on the wrist, largely due to its slim case profile.

The new 62GS 30 mm is essentially a scaled down version of the 40 mm model. It stands out for being the first ladies’ models that adapt a design of a men’s watch. In contrast, earlier Grand Seiko ladies watches had a cushion-shaped case that is arguably less appealing since it doesn’t have a distinctive Grand Seiko style.

While Grand Seiko’s continued emphasis on nature-inspired dials may feel somewhat overused, the 62GS 30 mm is priced similar to its men’s counterpart and still represents good value.

62GS

The Grand Seiko catalogue does include mid-sized watches that cater to females, but the 62GS 30 mm is amongst the few ladies-specific models. The new model debuts in two variants. One is pink dial, inspired by “sakura-kakushi,” evokes an early spring scene in northern Japan where cherry blossoms lie hidden under snow. Meanwhile, the grey dial pays homage to “sakura-tsukiyo,” reflecting the beauty of cherry blossoms illuminated by moonlight in early spring. Both dials share the familiar Grand Seiko design, with sword-shaped hands and multi-faceted hour markers.

The 62GS case measures 30 mm in diameter and 10.5 mm in thickness. Water-resistant to 100 m, it is crafted from stainless steel finished with “Zaratsu” flat polishing in the typical Grand Seiko style.

Beneath the exhibition case back is the cal. 9S27, measuring just 20 mm in diameter and 4.49 mm in thickness. Launched in 2019, it’s the smallest and thinnest automatic Grand Seiko model. But the calibre still has the features found in bigger movements, including escapement parts made via MEMS to minimise weight and inertia. Operating at 28,800 beats per hour (4 Hz), the movement has a 50-hour power reserve.

Key facts and price

Grand Seiko Heritage Collection 62GS Mechanical 30mm
Ref. STGK031 (pink dial)
Ref. STGK033 (grey dial)

Diameter: 30 mm
Height: 10.5 mm
Material: Stainless steel
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: 100 m

Movement: Cal. 9S27
Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds, and date
Winding: Automatic
Frequency: 28,800 beats per hour (4 Hz)
Power reserve: 50 hours

Strap: Matching steel bracelet

Limited edition: No
Availability: At Grand Seiko boutiques and retailers starting April 2025
Price: US$6,400

For more, visit grand-seiko.com