Having made its debut with the Big Pilot AMG G 63 a year ago, ceramic matrix composite (CMC) is an innovative material currently unique to IWC in watchmaking. Little was disclosed about the material at launch, but IWC has just released additional detail on CMC.

Notably, the material was developed in collaboration with the Deutsches Zentrum für Luft- und Raumfahrt (DLR), or German Aerospace Center, a national research institute specialising in aerospace, travel, energy, and even quantum computing.

While novel materials are common in watchmaking, brands rarely reveal the origin of the materials, making this collaboration notable. Moreover, the DLR is a highly regarded, independent technical institute, which arguably gives CMC more credibility (and cachet) than most composites employed in watchmaking. Utilising a space-qualified like CMC in a watch tied to a high-performance SUV, however, seems to be a missed opportunity, though it’s a certainty IWC has plans for the the material.

Blocks of CMC

Staying true to size

Fibre ceramic composites are a new class of materials, which combine the surface hardness of conventional ceramics with high tolerance to mechanical and thermal shocks. DLR’s previous work with ceramic composites revolved around making large components for aerospace applications, namely rockets or satellites.

The institute was looking to adapt its short-fibre pressing technology for making smaller, near-net-shape parts – not unlike a watch case. Near-net-shape means such components only suffer small geometry alterations (typically shrinkage) between the first and last production steps. In other words, the initial raw piece doesn’t differ much in size from the end product.

CMC addresses these needs as it allows precise initial moulding, while the subsequent processes concern the strengthening of the internal structure without altering the geometry of the component.

Earlier in October 2024, IWC and the DLR hosted a joint event at the DLR’s Institute of Structures and Design in Stuttgart to showcase CMC.

The event brought together DLR personnel and engineers from IWC who provided insight about the collaboration and the CMC watch case. DLR gained from the watchmaker’s know-how and experience in producing small parts, while IWC benefited from the German institute’s special method of ceramic manufacturing.

The Big Pilot AMG G 63 was exhibited during the event, which also saw attendees take part in a guided tour of DLR’s facilities, gaining a closer look at the complicated process of manufacturing CMC.

Described by Habring² as “a relative of Felix“, the Oskar shares the brand’s signature A11 movement but gains a calendar module, with the seconds at six or central. Launched to mark the 20th anniversary of Habring², the Oskar makes its debut in three different variants, a pair with date-and-moon and the final model with just a moon phase. All three feature the same classical aesthetic with Breguet numerals and a compact, 38.5 mm case.

Initial thoughts

The Oskar is an excellent example of what the Austrian independent has to offer – appealing, clean aesthetics paired with the excellent, proprietary A11 movement, and a price tag of well under US$8,000. And the Oskar also reflect Habring²’s technical competence that the brand managed to squeeze the complication module into a 9 mm high case, with the movement alone being just 5.5 mm high.

Admittedly, the vintage-inspired styling might be a little generic, although it is easily appealing. The design is well-executed with a properly proportioned dial and thoughtful details.

As is typical for Habring², the Oskar is an honest product and an excellent value proposition, with the moon phase model priced at €6,050 and the moon phase with pointer date about 10% more.

Mid century style 

The case is a simple, fuss-free affair that is similar to that found on other Habring² models, including the Felix. Entirely polished, the stainless steel case is 38.5 mm in diameter and 9 mm in thickness for both versions.

All three models share a similar aesthetic but with different executions. The moon-and-date models have a metallic finish dial with applied Breguet numerals and leaf-shaped hands.

The moon phase model on the other hand has a white lacquered dial with printed numerals and blued steel spade hands.

Powering the Oskar is the manual-wind A11Ups, which offers 48 hours of power reserve and beats at 28,800 beats per hour (4 Hz). Visible through an open back, the A11 is dressed up with blued screws and perlage,

Notably, much of the A11 is produced outside of Switzerland, including the anti-magnetic escapement with a hairspring made from wire supplied by Carl Haas, a German alloy wire and strip specialist.

Key facts and price

Habring² Oskar II Pointer Date

Case diameter: 38.5 mm
Case height: 9 mm
Material: Stainless steel
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: 30 m

Movement: Cal. A11
Functions: Hours, minutes, small seconds, pointer date, and moonphase
Winding: Automatic
Frequency: 28,800 beats per hour (4 Hz)
Power reserve: 48 hours

Strap: Steel bracelet or brown leather strap

Limited edition: No
Availability: Direct from Habring² and also at retailers
Price: €6,950

Habring² Oskar I Moon Phase

Case diameter: 38.5 mm
Case height: 9 mm
Material: Stainless steel
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: 30 m

Movement: Cal. A11
Functions: Hours, minutes, small seconds, and moonphase
Winding: Automatic
Frequency: 28,800 beats per hour (4 Hz)
Power reserve: 48 hours

Strap: Blue leather strap

Limited edition: No
Availability: Direct from Habring² and also at retailers
Price: €6,050

For more, visit habring2.com.