H. Moser & Cie. Unveils Streamliner Chronograph in Red for Cortina

Red fumé for its Singapore retailer.

In celebration of its partnership with its retailer in Southeast Asia, H. Moser & Cie. has created the 20-piece Streamliner Flyback Chronograph Cortina Watch. Based on its signature sports chronograph, right down to the “lobster” bracelet, the Cortina edition gets a striking red fumé dial with an “invisible” Moser logo.

Initial thoughts

Though the Streamliner is one of Moser’s strongest sellers, the brand hasn’t done that many limited editions of the Streamliner chronograph, so it’s not a theme that’s been overdone. As a result, the Cortina edition stands out as one of the few iterations of the model.

And it also stands out in tangible terms: the red dial sets this apart from past Streamliner Chronographs that were all dressed in darker colours. At the same time, the smoked red dial is different from the usual dark blue or grey that’s the norm for integrated-bracelet sports watches.

More generally, collaborative timepieces are often marked with various logos, front and back, in an unambiguous illustration of the collaboration. In case of the Cortina edition, however, subtlety wins the day. The retailer’s logo has been omitted, and even the Moser logo is barely visible on the dial. The timepiece speaks for itself, rather than the collaboration, which is a good thing.

Priced at 83,000 Singapore dollars (or about US$64,000), the Streamliner Cortina edition costs about 8% more than the regular production in local currency terms (which include taxes). Given it’s the only Streamliner with a red fumé dial and limited to just 20 pieces, the premium is justified.

Red fumé

The Cortina edition is identical to the standard model in size, materials, and movement. The stainless steel case is 42.3 mm in diameter and 14.2 mm high. Water-resistant to 120 m, the case allows the chronograph functions to be used underwater.

Equipped with the trademark Streamliner integrated bracelet, the case features a screw-in crown at four and “bullhead” chronograph pushers at two and ten o’clock.

Finished with a radial brushing, the red fumé dial features a discreet H. Moser & Cie. logo in transparent lacquer, leaving it visible only at certain angles.

The applied “60” at twelve o’clock is polished steel, while the seconds and minute scales are printed in luminous white. The hour and minute hands are equipped with inserts of Globolight, a luminous resin, for enhanced legibility in the dark.

Powering the watch is HMC 907, which was developed by Agenhor. A Geneva movement specialist now part owned by Moser, Agenhor’s flagship product is the AgenGraphe family of chronograph movements that includes the HMC 907.

One of the more innovative chronograph movements in contemporary watchmaking, the AgenGraphe is automatic though it doesn’t look it from the back. That’s because the rotor is concealed in-between the dial and movement.

The AgenGraphe also boasts other patented features like a horizontal clutch with friction wheels rather than toothed wheels for more precise meshing of the gears when starting the chronograph. It also has a column wheel, twin barrels and a 72-hours of power reserve.

Echoing the finish of other Streamliner movements, the HMC 907 has a contemporary decoration in grey rhodium plating and traditional Moser stripes of alternating width.

Key facts and price

H. Moser & Cie. Streamliner Flyback Chronograph Cortina Watch Limited Edition
Ref. 6907-1203

Diameter: 42.3 mm
Height: 14.2 mm
Material: Stainless steel
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: 120 m

Movement: Cal. HMC 907
Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds and flyback chronograph
Winding: Automatic
Frequency: 21,600 beats per hour
Power reserve: 72 hours

Strap: Integrated bracelet in stainless steel

Limited edition: 20 pieces
Availability: Now at Cortina Watch
Price: 83,000 Singapore dollars including GST

For more, visit h-moser.com

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Breguet Introduces the Type XX in Rose Gold and Ceramic

A pleasing new look for the pilot's chronograph.

Having launched the latest-generation Type XX last year, Breguet is adding to the family with the Type XX Chronograph 2067 in rose gold, a new take on the “civilian” aviator’s chronograph.

Inspired by a historical design, the latest Type XX features the a 12-hour bezel and three registers, along with a sophisticated, high-frequency chronograph movement.

The cal. 728

Initial thoughts

While the new Type XX is described by Breguet as being inspired by the vintage Type XX no. 1780 – one of just three vintage Type 20s in gold – it is an entirely modern watch in look and feel. The vintage inspiration is visible, but the colours, materials, and finishing bestow a polished, modern look, which is a good thing.

This contrasts with last year’s Type XX in steel that tried too hard to look vintage with faux-aged lume and lance-shaped hands, which was at odds with the overall look and feel. The new Type XX, on the other hand, looks coherently contemporary.

With a dial and hands resembling that of the 1990s-era Type XX, the new chronograph also looks more proportional and balanced, though it retains the same dimensions as last year’s model. Interestingly, though the new Type XX has the date window in exactly the same place as last year’s watch, the date does not look as obvious here.

Priced at US$37,900, the new Type XX 2067 is more affordable than the competition. The Audemars Piguet Code 11.59 chronograph in pink gold, for example, retails for US$49,700. Admittedly, the cal. 728 inside doesn’t have the same level of decorative finishing, but it is finished well and also boasts sophisticated construction.

Considering the overall quality as well as the movement, the Type XX in rose gold is a well-priced contender in the high-end automatic chronograph segment. It’s a shame that this design is not available in steel, though it is likely only a matter of time.

Gold and ceramic

Like last year’s models, the latest Type XX draws inspiration from a vintage example, specifically the Type XX no. 1780 now in the Breguet museum. However, it is an entirely modern watch built to today’s specs and proportions, and features one of the newest chronograph movements launched by a high-end brand.

An example of the vintage Type XX in gold

The new Type XX has the same dimensions as last year’s model, which means it is relatively large. The rose gold case is 42 mm in diameter and 14.1 mm high. Water-resistant to 100 m, the case is satin-finished with a wide polished bevel on each lug.

The gold case is matched with a sun-ray brushed blue dial and applied elements that are solid gold, namely the “Breguet” logo, syringe-shaped hands, and hour numerals. The snailed sub-dials are recessed, while the date window sits in between four and five o’clock.

The hands, numerals, and 12 o’clock marker on the bezel are filled with Super-LumiNova.

Inside is the in-house cal. 728, a self-winding, integrated chronograph movement with a fly-back function, vertical clutch, and column wheel. It also runs at 36,000 beats per hour (5 Hz), making it one of the few recent high-frequency chronograph movements, which are especially uncommon amongst higher-end brands.

Like many newer Breguet movements, the cal. 728 equipped with a free-sprung balance, along with a hairspring and escape wheel in silicon, boosting the magnetism-resistance of the movement.

Notably, the chronograph incorporates a patented stop-and-reset system for the flyback mechanism. This innovative, all-or-nothing system ensures the flyback (as well as reset) function performs consistently and reliably regardless of the force applied on the reset button.