Rolex has unveiled a luxe version of one of its top-of-the-line divers, the Deepsea ref. 136668 LB, which boasts a blue lacquer dial paired with a yellow gold case and bracelet. The timepiece makes a significant statement while preserving all the depth performance associated with its steel Deepsea Sea-Dweller.

Initial thoughts

Rolex has been hinting at forthcoming novelties on social media for a while, sparking anticipation among enthusiasts like myself who speculated that perhaps a new Submariner model was in development.

However, the brand surprised us with something pretty unexpected. The new Deepsea features the iconic blue and yellow gold colour scheme reminiscent of past Submariner models, which adds a touch of nostalgia to the release. With a diameter of 44 mm, this watch carries considerable weight, especially with its heavy yellow gold construction, which adds substantial heft to the wrist.

Priced at US$52,100, it far surpasses the cost of comparable steel models, which are roughly a third of its price. However, considering the solid yellow gold construction, the price is fitting, considering the current market climate.

Blue and yellow gold 

The latest model is a successor to the steel Deepsea Sea-Dweller. It maintains the renowned pressure-resistant architecture, with a ceramic compression ring and the Ringlock system for the bezel. Sporting a vibrant blue hue, the bezel, compression ring and dial all sharply contrast with the gilded gold lettering on the dial and the striking yellow gold case.

The steel Deepsea Sea-Dweller ref. 126660. Image – Rolex

In addition to the new case material and dial, the new Deepsea retains the same base case construction and proportions as the steel models. The case remains 44 mm in diameter and 17.7 mm thick. Interestingly, the helium escape valve and the caseback are made from RLX titanium. Titanium was necessary for depth-proofing the watch, as gold is objectively a soft metal. Under intense pressure, the titanium remains largely unaffected – which is crucial for both the special case back and the finely engineered helium valve.

The timepiece also features a Triplock screw-down crown. The hefty yellow gold bracelet incorporates the brand’s proprietary Easylink extension system as well as the Deepsea-exclusive Oysterlock safety clasp.

Powering the timepiece is workhorse cal. 3235 – the same movement found in the steel Deepsea Sea-Dweller ref. 126660, which is comes with the efficient Chronergy escapement, a non-magnetic Parachrom hairspring and offers a power reserve of 70 hours. The watch boasts an exceptional water resistance of up to 12,800 ft, or 3,900 m. Its hands and indices feature bright blue Chromalight luminescence, ensuring visibility in low-light conditions.

Key facts and price

Rolex Deepsea 
Ref. 136668LB

Diameter: 44 mm
Height: 17.7 mm
Material: 18k yellow gold
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: 3,900 m

Movement: Cal. 3235
Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds and date
Frequency: 28,800 beats per hour (4 Hz)
Winding: Automatic
Power reserve: 70 hours

Strap: Matching bracelet

Limited edition: No
Availability: Available in Rolex authorised retailers
Price: US$52,100

For more information, visit Rolex.com.

Tudor unveils the latest addition to its “BB58” range of smaller dive watches series, the Black Bay 58 GMT. Retaining the slim proportions and classic styling of the original model, the new BB58 seamlessly integrates a practical second time zone. The vintage-inspired design gains a burgundy and black “Coke” bezel with gilt accents that’s reminiscent of the classic GMT wristwatches – or more specifically a classic GMT – but with a thoroughly modern, high-spec movement.

Initial thoughts

Tudor fans have long wanted a more compact GMT, which is arguably the most practical of affordable complications. Before this launch, the dual time zone offerings in the brand’s catalogue were the chunky 41 mm Black Bay GMT and the smaller Black Bay Pro that is 39 mm but quite thick at over 14 mm high. In that context, the new Black Bay 58 GMT is an ideal size: 39 mm but substantially thinner than the Pro.

While the proportions are new, the affordability is familiar. Priced at US$4,400 on a strap, and US$200 extra on a bracelet, the Black Bay 58 is likely the best value proposition for a dual time zone watch in this price segment.

The only downside of the new GMT is perhaps the colour: red and black might not be for everyone. I for one hold out hope for a one in “Pan Am” colours.

Vintage-inspired and travel-ready

The BB58 GMT sticks to Tudor’s established formula for its dive watches. That includes “snowflake” hands, with the signature lozenge hand used for both the local hour and GMT. The dial also sports a “gilt” finish with the markings and scales in gold print. Notably, the dial surface features a subtle radial brushing instead of the matte, grained finish found on most Tudor dive watches.

The GMT bezel has matching “gilt” numerals on the anodised aluminium bezel insert. Here the bezel is in red and black – nicknamed “Coke” in keeping with the soft drink nomenclature applied to GMT watches – which Tudor applied to the two-tone Black Bay GMT S&G.

Like the rest of the BB58 line, the GMT has easily wearable dimensions with a diameter of 39 mm and height of 12.8 mm. Compared to the original GMT, that’s a reduction of 2 mm and 2.2 mm respectively.

As is now the norm for Tudor’s dive watches, the BB58 GMT is available on either a bracelet or strap. The bracelet is a rivet-style Oyster offering, while the strap is rubber with steel end links. Both options the brand’s “T-Fit” extension in the clasp that allows for micro-adjustment for a better fit.

The compact case is thanks to the newly developed MT5402-U movement. An in-house calibre like majority of Tudor’s current movements, the MT5402-U was constructed from the ground up as a dual time zone movement. Hence it is a “true” GMT that allows the wearer to adjust the local time hand independently.

The movement is a Master Chronometer and COSC-certified, which means it meets practically all of the performance benchmarks for everyday wear, ranging from magnetism resistance to power reserve. Equipped with a silicon hairspring, the MT5402-U boasts a robust power reserve of 65 hours and operates at a high frequency of 4 Hz.

Key facts and price

Tudor Black Bay 58 GMT
Ref. 7939G1A0NRU

Diameter: 39 mm
Height: 12.8 mm
Material: Steel
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: 200 m

Movement: Cal. MT5450-U
Features: Hours, minutes, seconds, date, and second time zone
Frequency: 28,800 beats per hour (4 Hz)
Winding: Automatic
Power reserve: 65 hours

Strap: Steel bracelet or rubber strap

Limited edition: No
Availability: Now at Tudor boutiques and retailers
Price: US$4,400 on rubber strap; US$4,600 on  steel rivet-style bracelet

For more information, visit Tudorwatch.com.