Hublot’s flagship launch at LVMH Watch Week 2024 is the MP-10 Tourbillon Weight Energy System, an enormous and outlandishly complicated wristwatch that takes a novel approach to each of its key functions: telling the time, winding, and regulation.

The time is indicated by rolling cylinders, while the movement is regulated by an inclined flying tourbillon, and the mainsprings wound by a novel mechanism that relies on the linear motion of twin sliding weights. All the mechanical intricacy is visible under a panoramic, wraparound sapphire crystal curved on three different planes.

Initial Thoughts

Although Hublot is best known for its simpler models like the Classic Fusion, and sometimes gets flak for the basic movements used in those watches, the brand has long specialises in intricately-mechanical complications, most notably the MP-05 LaFerrari with a movement shaped like an automobile engine and the MP-07 with a 40-day power reserve. The MP-10 continues the series in the same oversized, hyper-modern format.

The movement combines several unusual complications that have been found elsewhere, but never altogether. These include the cylindrical time display and inclined tourbillon, but more notably the linear winding mechanism. This is probably the most dynamic complication in the watch, since the twin weights on each side of the case will slide up and down with the motion of the wrist.

Winding a movement with sliding weights has been tried several times in the past, including by Hublot’s sister company TAG Heuer, but the concept was never really efficient enough to catch on. However, perhaps current technology has made it more functional, just like how peripheral winding only recently became widespread despite having been invented decades ago.

Impressive in technical terms – the movement part count of 592 is grand-complication level – the MP-10 resembles a highly complex machine, which was almost certainly the goal of its creators. Its complexity and three-dimensionality allows it to fit right alongside watches by independent watchmakers like Urwerk and MB&F, putting it in good company.

Instead, the shortcoming of the MP-10 is entirely practical. It is simply too big. Like its predecessor MP models, it is barely wearable. With a case that is over 54 mm long and well past 22 mm high, the MP-10 is a gigantic watch. The dimensions are similar to the MP-05 LaFerrari, which was large enough to be comfortably wearable only by the largest of wrists, especially since the standard Hublot folding clasp is not particularly comfortable due to its design.

A mechanical engine

Like the MP-05 LaFerrari before it, the MP-10 is powered by a three-dimensional movement constructed on several levels and featuring elements rotating and sliding on multiple planes. In fact, the movement brings to mind a car engine, which raises the possibility this was originally constructed as a Ferrari watch before Hublot and the carmaker parted ways in 2020.

The most conventional MP-10 complication in the MP-10 is the flying tourbillon that makes one revolution a minute. Situated at six o’clock, the tourbillon has a seconds scale on its outer cage, allowing it to double as the seconds indicator.

Right above the tourbillon is the time and power reserve display, all indicated by cylinders. The hours are shown on the uppermost cylinder, followed by the minutes below, and the power reserve on the narrow ring above six o’clock. The power reserve ring shows green when the watch is sufficiently wound, and red once it is running down.

The power reserve is a relatively short 48 hours, which might seem surprising given the size of the watch. But observe the construction of the movement and it becomes clear there isn’t much space left for the mainsprings that are contained in the upper section around 12 o’clock. The mainsprings are wound directly with the large crown at 12 o’clock.

Setting the time, on the other hand, is done via the crown on the case back. This telescopic crown pops out of the back and advances the hour and minute cylinders.

Both the inclined tourbillon and cylinder time display have been implemented in past Hublot models, however, the linear winding mechanism is new for the brand. Located on either side of the time cylinders, the winding weights are cubes of weight gold that slide up and down a vertical track, winding the mainsprings as they go.

Brands that have attempted linear winding in the past include Corum and TAG Heuer, but with little success. Those attempts, however, took place a decade or more ago, so Hublot’s system will undoubtedly be more sophisticated. Amongst other things, the linear weights in the MP-10 are bookended by shock-absorber springs, which cushion their back-and-forth sliding as they wind the movement.

Key facts and price

Hublot MP-10 Tourbillon Weight Energy System
Ref. 910.NX.0001.RX

Diameter: 54.1 mm x 41.5 mm
Height: 22.4 mm
Material: Titanium
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: 30 m

Movement: HUB9013
Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds, power reserve indicator, and flying tourbillon
Frequency: 21,600 beats per hour (3 Hz)
Winding: Automatic
Power reserve: 48 hours

Strap: Rubber with folding clasp

Limited edition: 50 pieces
Availability: At Hublot physical and online boutiques as well as retailers starting February 2024
Price: US$264,000

For more information, visit Hublot.com.

With Daniel Roth’s revival having become official last year, the brand has just taken the covers off the prototype of the Daniel Roth Tourbillon Souscription at LVMH Watch Week 2024.

Retaining the style and dimensions of its 1990s inspiration, the Tourbillon Souscription is, however, an entirely new creation in mechanical terms, with the DR001 movement inside having been developed specifically for it by Geneva complications specialist La Fabrique du Temps (LFT).

Initial thoughts

The prototype of the Tourbillon Souscription arrives with subtle refinements compared to the images released last year. The aesthetics largely replicate the design of the 1990s originals, which was the brand’s goal from the beginning, at least for this opening act in its revival. Where the Tourbillon Souscription does better than the original is in the execution and mechanics.

The guilloche dial is evidently top quality and also on a solid-gold base. More notably, the recessed area around the tourbillon, which is the actually the base plate, is finished with Côtes de Genève. On the originals this area was unfinished except for a rudimentary micro-blasting.

But the calibre within is a more substantive achievement. The DR001 movement was conceived for this watch (though perhaps borrowing elements from LFT’s existing constructions) with aesthetics and traditional detailing in mind, explaining elements like the black-polished steel cock and linear winding click. In contrast, the originals relied on an off-the-shelf Lemania calibre that was high end for its time but produced on a large scale and relatively straightforward in execution.

In fact, one could argue the DR001 has too many decorative flourishes. The linear winding click and gold chatons, for instance, are not typically found together in historical watches.

As for the aesthetics, they do diverge in some modest ways from the originals. Unlike last year’s initial release, the finished prototype uses a serif font on the dial that’s closer to the typography on the original. The new font is well suited to the design, although not exactly the same as found on the originals. Here the printing has a heavier weight, perhaps intentionally in order to separate the two.

Refining the double-ellipse

In terms of look and feel, the Tourbillon Souscription sticks close to the template established by the original models, namely the inaugural ref. 2187/C187 of 1988 (which had a second face on the back for the power reserve and date) and the subsequent single-face model that this is based on. The case has practically the same dimensions, measuring 35.5 mm wide and 9.2 mm, but features more fluid lugs that curve downwards along with a slightly more ergonomic crown.

Like all earlier Daniel Roth models, the Tourbillon Souscription has a dial decorated with clous de Paris guilloche. The dial itself is solid yellow gold, while the engine turning is done on a hand-operated straight-line engine.

The Tourbillon Souscription has a solid case back secured by four screws, which is something of a shame since the DR001 movement is hidden. That said, the solid-back is probably a feature unique to this model; it is likely that future models will have display backs given the quality of the movements.

The DR001 is a traditional in style and function. It’s a hand-wound movement with a one-minute tourbillon regulator and a 3 Hz balance, though the long, 80-hour power reserve is a convenient feature that marks it out as a modern construction.

Though concealed beneath the solid back, the movement boasts several decorative flourishes inspired by historical high-end movements. Amongst them are the black-polished steel cock for the third wheel as well as the gold chatons for the jewels of the going train. The black-polished steel caps for the barrel ratchet and crown wheels are equally appealing, as are the bevelled edges of the bridges, which are spaced out to reveal the base plate and wheels of the going train.

Key facts and price

Daniel Roth Tourbillon Souscription
Ref. DR0011YG-01

Diameter: 38.6 mm by 35.5 mm
Height: 9.2 mm
Material: 18K yellow gold 3N
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: 30 m

Movement: DR001
Features: Hours, minutes, seconds, and a one-minute tourbillon
Frequency: 21,600 beats per hour (3 Hz)
Winding: Manual winding
Power reserve: 80 hours

Strap: Calfskin strap with pin buckle

Limited edition: 20 pieces 
Availability: Only available through selected retail partners of Daniel Roth with delivery in 2024
Price: CHF140,000 excluding taxes

For more, visit Daniel-roth.ch.