Amongst the special editions created for the Patek Philippe Watch Art Grand Exhibition in Tokyo is the World Time Minute Repeater Limited Edition Tokyo 2023 ref. 5531R-014. The ref. 5531R-014 is the more complicated of the two world time models that mark the event – the other is the ref. 5330G – and features a cloisonné enamel dial.

The dial continues with the motif first found on the ref. 5531R-010 made for the Grand Exhibition 2019 that took place in Singapore. Its centre is cloisonné enamel depicting a stylised map of the Chuo ward in central Tokyo, including the expansive grounds of Imperial Palace on the upper left.

Initial thoughts

Unlike the other two Grand Exhibition Tokyo 2023 complications – Quad Comp ref. 5308P and World Time ref. 5330G – that are new references containing new calibres, the ref. 5531R is a variant of a regular-production model.

So while it less interesting from that perspective, the ref. 5531R-014 is still an compelling watch. The cloisonné map is an unusual motif for a dial, and almost abstract at a distance, but interesting and appealing.

The watch does have intrinsic appeal, however, it also does look similar to the ref. 5531R-010 made for the 2019 Grand Exhibition in Singapore. In fact, the two are probably indistinguishable from across a room. Doing something more distinctive, for instance another case metal and dial colour, would have made this more unique.

A bird’s eye view of Tokyo

The cloisonné enamel dial captures the Chūō ward of Tokyo as seen from above. Located in central Tokyo, Chuo encompasses the business district of Nihonbashi and the posh shopping area of Ginza. Major streets and roads form a grid pattern across the dial, with colour coming from the greenery of the Imperial Palace and the waters of Tokyo Bay. Notably, the dial is made by the workshop of Anita Porchet, as indicated by the “AP” signature.

Dial aside, the rest of the watch is standard ref. 5531. The case is rose gold and just over 40 mm in diameter.

Only in profile do the key elements of the case emerge. The case middle is finished with hobnail guilloche that is unbroken along the entire length of the case band thanks to the open-worked lugs.

The calibre within is the R 27 HU, based on Patek Philippe’s longstanding self-winding repeater movement but with a world time module under the dial.

Interestingly, the R 27 HU shares the same base calibre as the Quadruple Complication ref. 5308P-010 that is also making its debut at the Tokyo Grand Exhibition, so the view from the back is identical for both models.

Key facts and price

Patek Philippe World Time Minute Repeater Limited Edition Tokyo 2023
Ref. 5531R-014

Diameter: 40.2 mm
Height: 11.49 mm
Material: 18k rose gold
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: Dust and moisture resistant only

Movement: R 27 HU
Functions: Hours, minutes, world time, and minute repeater
Frequency: 21,600 beats per hour (3 Hz)
Winding: Automatic
Power reserve: 38-48 hours

Strap: Alligator with rose gold folding clasp

Limited edition: 15 pieces
Availability: Only at Patek Philippe retailers and boutiques in Japan
Price: CHF600,000 (excluding taxes)

The Patek Philippe Watch Art Grand Grand Exhibition takes place from June 10-25, 2023 at the Sankaku Hiroba. It is open to the public daily from 10:00 am-8:00 pm. Admission is free and no registration is required to attend.

Sankaku Hiroba
2 Chome-6-1 Nishishinjuku
Shinjuku City, Tokyo
Japan 160-0023

For more information, visit Patek.com.

Correction June 11, 2023: The ref. 5531R is only dust and moisture resistant, and not water resistant to 30 m as stated in an earlier version of the article. 

The flagship model in Patek Philippe’s special edition line-up for the Watch Art Grand Exhibition in Tokyo, the Quadruple Complication Limited Edition Tokyo 2023 ref. 5308P-010 is an entirely new reference that becomes one of the most complicated watches in the Patek Philippe catalogue.

Described as a quadruple complication because it has a minute repeater, perpetual calendar, and a twin chronograph, the ref. 5308P is a direct evolution of the ref. 5208. Both are essentially alike, save for the addition of the split-seconds mechanism in the ref. 5308P.

Initial thoughts

Like all of Patek Philippe’s top-of-the-line grand comps, the ref. 5308P is an imposing and heavy watch that makes a statement on the wrist (unlike the relatively compact ref. 5330G World Time created for the same event). And with the “rose-gilt opaline” dial, this is also visually striking and definitely hard to miss.

Though it might seem similar to the ref. 5208, with only an additional seconds hand to set them apart, the ref. 5308P incorporates some interesting technical tweaks, including a revised isolator mechanism for the split seconds.

Still, like the ref. 5208, the ref. 5308P is a modular grand complication with the perpetual calendar and split-seconds chronographs made up of modules stacked up under the dial. This is arguably a less sophisticated solution then an integrated chronograph (a perpetual calendar is conventionally a module regardless).

Four comps

The ref. 5308P has a dial in “rose-gilt opaline”, a shade that’s been popular at Patek Philippe recently and also found on the ref. 5935A World Time Chronograph.

Because the ref. 5308P is descended from the ref. 5208, both are identical in terms of the dial. The ref. 5308P retains the calendar windows arranged in an arc on the upper edge of the dial, along with the two chronograph registers flanking the constant seconds and moon phase at six.

The ref. 5308P stands apart from its less complex counterpart with two subtle details, the first being the pusher at four that controls the split-seconds hand, which is its second distinguishing second element.

The ref. 5308P has a 42 mm case in platinum, giving it the same diameter as the ref. 5208. However, because of the addition of the split-seconds mechanism, the ref. 5308P is notably thicker at 17.71 mm.

The case styling, however, remains unchanged from the ref. 5208. The lines of the case are rounded and clean, with its most notable feature being the “pierced”, open-worked lugs.

The ref. 5308P is powered by the R CHR 27 PS QI, an evolution of the R 27 minute repeating calibre introduced in 1989. The automatic winding and striking mechanisms are visible on the back, while the other complications are module plates under the dial.

There are two such modules, one for the instantaneous perpetual calendar, while the other is the split-seconds chronograph. Although the addition of a split-seconds might seem like a modest achievement on paper, it required 80 additional parts and a string of tweaks across the movement, amongst them a thicker mainspring to handle the extra energy needs of the chronograph.

More notable are two features of the split-seconds mechanism: an anti-backlash wheel with integrated sprung teeth along with a newly-developed isolator device that is thicker and presumably more robust.

Key facts and price

Patek Philippe Quadruple Complication Limited Edition Tokyo 2023
Ref. 5308P-010

Diameter: 42 mm
Height: 17.71 mm
Material: Platinum
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: Not water resistant; dust and moisture proof

Movement: R CHR 27 PS QI
Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds, minute repeater, mono-pusher split-seconds chronograph, an instantaneous perpetual calendar with moon phase
Frequency: 21,600 beats per hour (3 Hz)
Winding: Automatic
Power reserve: 38-48 hours

Strap: Alligator with platinum folding clasp

Limited edition: 15 pieces
Availability: Only at Patek Philippe retailers and boutiques in Japan
Price: CHF 1.1 million (excluding taxes)

The Patek Philippe Watch Art Grand Grand Exhibition takes place from June 10-25, 2023 at the Sankaku Hiroba. It is open to the public daily from 10:00 am-8:00 pm. Admission is free and no registration is required to attend.

Sankaku Hiroba
2 Chome-6-1 Nishishinjuku
Shinjuku City, Tokyo
Japan 160-0023

For more information, visit Patek.com.

Having just opened the doors of the Watch Art Grand Grand Exhibition in Tokyo, Patek Philippe also revealed the special editions created for the event, including the World Time Limited Edition Tokyo 2023 ref. 5330G-10.

Limited to 300 watches available only in Japan, the ref. 5330G-010 is the brand’s first world time with a date display. It features a guilloche dial in purple, the thematic hue of the exhibition, along with subtle references to Japan on the dial.

Initial thoughts

While the ref. 5330G-010 is not the flagship complication of the Watch Art Tokyo 2023 event – that title is claimed by the ref. 5308P Quadruple Complication – the new World Time is quintessential Patek Philippe.

For one, the world time complication, though not invented by Patek Philippe, is strongly associated with the brand. At the same time, the date display is both practical and incorporated in an elegant manner, while the mechanics behind the date are sophisticated and thin as is typical of the brand’s approach to movements.

Also in its favour are the discreet and tasteful references to Japan on the dial. But while the plum dial is striking and rich, the colour might not be for everyone. But putting aside the colour, the ref. 5330G-010 is an appealing watch.

It is limited to just 300 pieces sold only in Japan, which makes availability at retail non-existent for most, but fortunately the ref. 5330 will almost certainly make it into the catalogue as a regular production model, as past exhibition editions have.

A useful addition

Slightly larger than the World Time ref. 5230 that’s 38.5 mm, the new ref. 5330G has a case measuring 40 mm by 11.57 mm, making it the largest contemporary world time model without other complications.

The case is white gold and adopts the vintage-inspired design also found on the recent Calatrava 24-Hour ref. 5224R that is characterised by slim, stepped lugs and a rounded case middle.

Like preceding World Time models, the dial centre is decorated with guilloche, but in a striking plum colour that is also the theme for the event.

Two details mark it out as a Tokyo 2023 edition: the city name in red on the world time ring and the Rising Sun replacing “12” on the 24-hour ring.

The dial also reveals the additional complication of the ref. 5330G – a date hand in the centre. In a first for Patek Philippe, the date hand is made of glass and features a red-lacquered pointer.

Inside is the cal. 240 HU C, a variant of the cal. 240 HU found in the standard World Time model.

It incorporates a new date mechanism made up of 70 parts, which add about 0.7 mm to the thickness of the movement. The date hand is driven by its own going train that allows the date to move in sync with the time display – both backwards and forwards.

Like the other Tokyo 2023 special editions, the ref. 5330G-010 has the event emblem printed on the sapphire back

Key facts and price

Patek Philippe World Time Limited Edition Tokyo 2023
Ref. 5330G-10

Diameter: 40 mm
Height: 11.57 mm
Material: White gold
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: 30 m

Movement: Cal. 240 HU C
Functions: Hours, minutes, world time, and date
Frequency: 21,600 beats per hour (3 Hz)
Winding: Automatic
Power reserve: 38-48 hours

Strap: Alligator with gold folding clasp

Limited edition: 300 pieces
Availability: Only at Patek Philippe retailers and boutiques in Japan
Price: CHF 70,000 (excluding taxes)

The Patek Philippe Watch Art Grand Grand Exhibition takes place from June 10-25, 2023 at the Sankaku Hiroba. It is open to the public daily from 10:00 am to 8:00 pm. Admission is free and no registration is required to attend.

Sankaku Hiroba
2 Chome-6-1 Nishishinjuku
Shinjuku City, Tokyo
Japan 160-0023

For more information, visit Patek.com.