Patek Philippe just launched a trio of new chronographs, all variants of existing models. While the ref. 5905/1A in steel is the most affordable, the World Time Chronograph ref. 5930P-001 is surely the most striking with its emerald-green guilloche dial (which is a brighter shade than the olive green of the ref. 5905/1A or Nautilus ref. 5711/1A-014). And despite a dial colour that’s novel for a world-time model, the ref. 5930P does hark back to historical world-time watches with its silver cities ring.

Initial thoughts

The ref. 5930P is only a different take on an existing model, but it’s certainly a vivid new look. Past versions of the ref. 5930 were either subdued (which was the original in blue) or too much (the Singapore edition in red). The ref. 5930P in emerald green appears striking but just right.

A key point of appeal is the silver world-time ring that gives it a look that more closely resembles vintage world time watches, which is a good thing for anyone who appreciates historical Patek Philippe design. This contrasts with earlier versions of the ref. 5930, both of which had tone-on-tone world-time rings, making them less prominent.

Notably, Patek Philippe historically utilised such bright colours only on limited editions, so the ref. 5930P is an unusual watch amongst the standard offerings. That said, with green being the most fashionable colour of the year, it goes without saying that the ref. 5930P will be mostly unavailable for the near future.

Emerald green and silver

The ref. 5930 was first launched in white gold with a blue dial, which was then followed by a limited edition with a graduated-red dial made for the Watch Art Grand Exhibition 2019 in Singapore.

The key difference of the new ref. 5930P is the colour. The dial is decorated with the same spiral guilloche – engraved the old-fashioned way with a hand-operated rose engine – found on the standard model, but now in a bright, emerald green.

But in contrast to earlier versions of the model that had world-time rings in the same colour as the dial, the green dial here is matched with a world-time ring in silver, but bearing the city names in green. The result is a world-time dial that more closely resembles historical world-time models, which tended to have a contrasting dial colour and silver world-time rings.

Inspired by the cases of vintage world time watches like the ref. 2523, the case retains the same dimensions as before, though it is now platinum. It’s relatively compact for a chronograph at 39.5 mm in diameter, but this version will no doubt but substantially heavier due to the case metal.

The case has “wing” lugs modelled on those found on the world-time watches of the 1940s like there ref. 2523

The tiny diamond set in between the lower lugs indicates the case is platinum

And the calibre remains the CH 28-520 HU, an automatic calibre with both column wheel and vertical clutch, with the world-time mechanism being an add-on module on the front.

Key facts and price

Patek Philippe World Time Chronograph
Ref. 5930P-001

Diameter: 39.5 mm
Height: 12.86 mm
Material: Platinum
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: 30 m

Movement: Cal. 28-520 HU
Functions: Hours, minutes, flyback chronograph, and world time
Frequency: 28,800 beats per hour (4 Hz)
Winding: Automatic
Power reserve: 50-55 hours

Strap: Alligator with folding clasp

Availability: At both retailers and boutiques
Price: US$100,540; or 132,500 Singapore dollars

For more, visit Patek.com.