With a knack for novel collaborations with partners ranging from industrial designers to guillocheurs, Louis Erard’s latest project brings on board Konstantin Chaykin. The result is Le Régulateur Louis Erard x Konstantin Chaykin Time-Eater, a regulator-style wristwatch inspired by the Russian independent watchmaker’s signature “rolling eye” watches.

Inspired by a one-eyed monster from Slavic folklore, the Time-Eater has a whimsical vibe that departs from Louis Erard’s more serious offerings like the recent example with a hand-made wood marquetry dial. It is available in either a 42 mm or 39 mm size, or both together in a two-piece box set.

Initial thoughts 

Following its successful collaborations with other notable watchmakers, it’s perhaps no surprise that Louis Erard recruited Konstantin Chaykin. Earlier partnerships, with Vianney Halter for instance, broadened the appeal of the independent watchmakers by making the name accessible at a far lower price point.

Despite Mr Chaykin’s specialty in avant-garde or fantastical designs, the Time-Eater is surprisingly restrained compared to his own creations, no doubt because it is based on the existing template of the Louis Erard regulator. As a result, it is not the full-blown Konstantin Chaykin watch that collectors might expect from the Russian watchmaker.

But then again, the price of about US$4,000 means the Time-Eater is about the fifth a price of Mr Chaykin’s trademark Minion watch. The Time-Eater watch is essentially a chance to acquire the spirit and vision of Konstantin Chaykin for not very much. It is solid value for anyone who appreciates Mr Chaykin’s distinctive style but wants something (very) affordable.

A box set of the two models is a limited edition of 28 sets

A horological creature comes to life

The design of the Time-Eater is inspired by Likho, the one-eyed monster that, according to Slavic folklore, brings misfortune. In typical Chaykin fashion, the fairytale creature has been reinterpreted as a cartoon character, just as Mr Chaykin did with his Wristmon watches featuring the “rolling eye” time display.

The Time-Eater offers a unique twist on the regulator format that is Louis Erard’s best-known model. Two versions of the Time-Eater are available, a larger, 42 mm model and a mid-sized 39 mm. The face of the Time-Eater is a silver dial with a stamped radial pattern along with distinctive minute ring that’s green for the 42 mm version while the 39 mm model gets a purple minute track.

Both share the same movement and time display with a regulator-style layout. The hours at 12 o’clock and seconds at six have both been given a Chaykin twist – hours are shown with a “rolling eye” indicator while the small seconds takes the form of a mouth containing a spinning disc featuring monster-like teeth. Meanwhile, the central minute hand resembles either a serpent or a tail.

Both versions have the polished steel case that is standard issue at Louis Erard. Due to the relatively tall movement within, both case sizes are thick: a the 42 mm stands 12.25 mm high, while the 39 mm is 12.82 mm.

Inside is the Sellita SW266-1 found in all Louis Erard regulators. Based on the ETA 2824, the SW266-1 has been enhanced with a module for the regulator-style display, but still has the short power reserve of just 38 hours that’s typical of the movement.

Key facts and price

Louis Erard Le Régulateur Louis Erard x Konstantin Chaykin Time-Eater
Ref. 85237AA88 (green)
Ref. 85248AA89 (purple)
Ref. 22222AA88 (box set of two watches)

Diameter: 42 mm or 39 mm
Height: 12.29 mm or 12.82 mm
Material: Steel
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: 50 m

Movement: Sellita SW266-1
Features: Hours, minutes, and seconds
Frequency: 28,800 beats per hour (4 Hz)
Winding: Automatic
Power reserve: 38 hours

Strap: Calf leather with pin buckle

Limited edition: 178 examples per model, plus another 28 pieces each for the box sets
Availability: Direct from Louis Erard and its retailers
Price: CHF4,000 for either model, or CHF7,900 for the box set (prices exclude taxes)

For more information, visit louiserard.com.