Conceived to mark the brand’s 10th anniversary, the “X” series of watches is a quartet of models that started with the Type 1 Slim X, and now continues with the brand-new Type 5X Automobili Amos.

Equipped with a bezel to measure turbocharged engine warming and cooling times, the Type 5X is the result of a collaboration between Ressence and Italian race-car driver Eugenio Amos.

Husband to a member of the Missoni fashion dynasty, Mr Amos’ namesake company is best known for the Lancia Delta Futurista “restomod”, a race car based on the 1980s Lancia Delta, a car famous for dominating the World Rally Championship in the late 1980s. The concept is similar to what Singer Vehicle Design is doing for the Porsche 911 (specifically the 964 of the early 1990s); Singer, as it happens, has its own line of wristwatches.

Initial thoughts

The Type 5X is a good-looking variation of the standard Type 5. The tweaks to the typography, colours, and bezel are attractive. But it has a narrow appeal, basically car enthusiasts who appreciate the history of the Lancia Delta and that era of automobile racing.

Because it costs not much more than the standard model, the Type 5X is probably a no brainer for anyone who does appreciate that history. But for anyone else it is a bit too esoteric.

The Lancia Delta Futurista

More broadly, the strengths and weaknesses of the Type 5X are the same as those of the standard model. The watch is ingenious, inventive, and truly unique, while possessing elegance in design and tactile feel. That said, one of the signature features of the watch, setting and winding the movement via the case back, can be a bit fiddly at times.

The Type 5 is also expensive – the standard model is already about US$35,000 – despite its technical qualities, largely because Ressence produces watches on a small scale, resulting in no economies of scale.

Type 5

The most obvious automotive feature of the Type 5X is its bezel, which is meant to be rotated into alignment with the minute hand before and after a race, so that the hand can be read against its twin scales.

The bezel is graduated to measure the 15-minute warmup and 10-minute cool down times required for a turbocharged engine. The longer scale is for warming up, marked for “start”, “drive”, and “race” with “S”, “D”, and “R” respectively. And the smaller scale is for cooling down at the end of the race.

The Type 5X is also delivered with an accessory to make it a true driver’s watch. A small rubber mount can be fitted on the back of the watch, so that the case can sit on the side of the wrist, allowing the watch to be read while driving.

The rubber mount for the wrist

The bezel is matched with a modestly redesigned dial inspired by dashboard instruments, and accented with yellow and red to echo the colours on the bezel. The dial itself is a dark green, though it appears even darker due to the oil-filled void in-between the dial and crystal.

A signature feature of Ressence, the oil filling is meant to improve legibility as it creates the optical illusion that the dial is pressed up against the underside of the crystal.

The other signature Ressence invention is the Ressence Orbital Convex System (ROCS), a time display that relies on planetary discs that circle the dial. They are driven by a mechanism within a discrete module that has no physical connection to the ETA 2824 base movement within the case.

Instead, the base movement drives a magnetic, which in turn propels the display mechanism by magnetic attraction. And the reason for the unusual set up is the oil, which fills the entire module and also functions as a lubricant for the display mechanism.

The case is titanium and 46 mm in diameter, while being 15.5 mm high. Though its measurements are large, the case sits flat and sleek on the wrist, due to its streamlined design and short lugs.

The case also has no crown, because both setting and winding are accomplished by rotating the case back, another trademark feature of Ressence.

Key Facts and Price

Ressence Type 5X Automobili Amos

Diameter: 46 mm
Height: 15.5 mm
Material: Titanium
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: 100 m

Movement: ROCS 5
Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds, oil temperature indicator, and “driver’s bezel” for measuring warming and cooling of engines
Winding: Automatic
Frequency: 28,800 beats per hour (4 Hz)
Power reserve: 36 hours

Strap: Brown Alcantara with pin buckle, additional strap in green rubber

Limited edition: 40 pieces
Availability: Now, direct from Ressence or its retailers
Price: US$36,500

For more, visit Ressencewatches.com.

Amsterdam-based Ace Jewelers has worked with Nomos on a regular basis to create its own limited editions, with the latest being the Club Campus 38 #NomiesForLife.

While earlier Ace editions incorporated local elements like the Dutch capital’s coat of arms and the work of Piet Mondrian, the new edition resulted from a collaboration with a Dutch Nomos enthusiast who also started a community on Instagram for like-minded collectors, @nomiesforlife.

Named after the Instagram channel, the new edition is a more sombre iteration of the usually colourful Club Campus, done in high contrast black and white, accented with pale blue.

Initial thoughts

Ace Jewelers has plenty of Nomos limited editions under its belt – this Club Campus is the second launch this year – which might seem one too many. In fact, the new model is rather similar to an earlier edition, but with red replaced by blue. That said, the “NomiesForLife” edition is appealing, mostly owing to the colours and pronounced affordability – the retail price is under US$1,400.

Clean and more restrained compared to the standard Club Campus, the new edition nonetheless retains the “California” dial, which gives it a fun, retro style that’s helped by the blue accents. Basically it caters to anyone who likes the Club Campus for its accessible price and sporty-ish style, but prefers a more understated look.

And the new edition is even more affordable than the standard models in relative terms: though priced exactly the same, it is delivered with a bonus of two additional fabric straps.

The entry-level Nomos

The “NomiesForLife” edition is identical to the standard Club Campus aside from the dial. Launched three years ago as a starter Nomos for those fresh out of college, the Club Campus is characterised by its unusual dial and lively colours. Its steel case is a reasonable 38 mm in diameter, and a thin 8.5 mm high.

Though priced low, the Club Campus checks the boxes for both utility and mechanics: 100m of water resistance and the Alpha movement, a proprietary movement based on the Peseux 7001.

The Alpha offers perhaps the most appealing movement decoration in its price segment. Amongst its decorative highlights are the three-quarter plate and a spiral, solarised finish on the barrel ratchet wheel.

Key facts and price

Nomos Club Campus 38 #NomiesForLife

Diameter: 38 mm
Height: 8.5 mm
Material: Steel
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: 100 m

Movement: Alpha
Frequency: 21,600 beats per hour (3 Hz)
Winding: Hand-wind
Power reserve: 43 hours
Functions: Hours, minutes, and seconds

Strap: Horween shell cordovan with tang buckle; additional textile straps in blue and black

Limited Edition: 50 pieces
Availability: Direct from Ace Jewelers
Price: €1,158 excluding taxes

For more, visit Acejewelers.com.

Once a leading auctioneer for high-end pocket watches in the late 20th century, Zurich-based Ineichen is now also specialised in wristwatches. Its upcoming November auction includes an intriguing pair of F.P. Journe watches – a Resonance and tourbillon naturally – both from limited editions made for Pisa Orologeria.

Located in Milan, Pisa is one of Italy’s more storied watch retailers. It is a family-run business and prominent enough that a good number of watch brands – ranging from A. Lange & Söhne to Vacheron Constantin – once created limited editions exclusively for Pisa, back when brands used to do such things.

Both F.P. Journe watches going on the block at Ineichen were limited editions made for Pisa, and share the same uncommon silver-and-grey livery. The first watch is a Resonance made to mark the 60th anniversary of Pisa in 2000. It has standard 40 mm case and rose gold movement, with an extremely unusual dial.

Made of white gold, the dial features dark grey, ruthenium-plated sub-dials with white markings, an unusual combination then and still today.

Only five were made, and only one has been sold publicly before – another example sold for 106,250 Swiss francs at Christie’s Geneva in 2015, which was then a record price. The market for F.P. Journe watches has since taken a turbocharged ride upwards, which means the 2015 price will probably be left in the distance at next month’s auction.

The next Pisa edition was a follow up to the Resonance. It’s a 40 mm tourbillon with a similar dial – white gold with dark grey sub-dials – although not conceived for any specific event.

According to Ineichen, the tourbillon was offered to buyers of the 60th anniversary Resonance, to allow the owners to have a matched pair. Like the Resonance, only five were made. This particular example for sale is fitted to a matching bracelet, a weighty upgrade that is not often encountered as precious metal bracelets were (and still are) extremely expensive.

Both watches are accompanied by a certificate of authenticity (and not the original certificate), as well as the respective boxes.

The Resonance is lot 262, and has an estimate of 100,000-150,000 Swiss francs.

And the Tourbillon Souverain is lot 262, with an estimate of 150,000-200,000 Swiss francs.

The auction takes place on November 21, 2020 at the Metropol in Zurich. For the catalogue, visit Ineichen.com.