Industry News: GPHG Announces Revamp of Nominations and Awards

With the Academy.

As the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG) is gearing up for its 20th anniversary next year – and a week after the 2019 winners were announced – the foundation that administers the industry awards has announced the Academy. This adds an additional layer of nominations and votes to the awards to better encompass a wider swathe of the watch business.

Slated to be several hundred strong – 300 was the number mooted – the Academy will be composed of individuals from across the watch industry, from brands to the media to retailers. The large size of the Academy and its diversity is to ensure the GPHG awards represent the industry’s views as much as possible.

The GPHG trophy takes the form of a gilded hand

The Academy will be able to nominate watches for the awards – in past years only brands could propose their own watches – as well as vote in the earlier shortlisting process.

The final vote and physical evaluation of the shortlisted candidates will then be undertaken by a 30-member jury meeting in Geneva, which is similar to the voting process today.

The first members of the Academy will be announced in early 2020. Subsequently, new members can join the Academy when nominated by existing members.


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Tulloch Introduces the T-01 First Edition Regulator Wristwatch

Developed by an all-star team.

Tulloch is a three year-old startup founded by a New Zealander living in New York City, Shane Tulloch, but it is making its debut with an unusual wristwatch with a regulator display, the T-01 First Edition.

It began in 2016 when Mr Tulloch, formerly a venture capitalist, came across a video of Eric Giroud discussing watch design. After meeting Mr Giroud, best known for his work on MB&F’s “Machines”, Mr Tulloch embarked on creating his own watch.

The T-01 is the work of a host of industry notables. Mr Giroud is responsible for the styling, while the movement and dial are the work of Kari Voutilainen and his associates at dial maker Comblemine (which he also owns): namely its director Christophe Beuchat and movement constructor Stéphane Bépoix.

The result is a time-only watch that’s minimalist in design but elaborately executed.

Time is indicated regulator-style, with the hours and seconds on eccentric sub-dials. While the main dial is sterling silver, each sub-dial is 18k white gold, with the raised hour numerals machined out of the dial and given a mirror polish.

Despite the asymmetry on the front, the movement is the opposite. A large 32mm in diameter, the movement is almost entirely symmetrical, with two large barrels providing 96 hours, or four days, of power reserve.

Each barrel cover is decorated with traditional guilloche engraved by a rose engine – the same sort of engine turning found on Voutilainen dials – that can be customised. And at the centre of each barrel is a jewel set in an 18k white gold chaton.

The twin barrels transmit power via the double-spoke gears of the wheel train, which are all rendered in 18k white gold.

And at the bottom sits the free-sprung balance wheel that has four 18k white gold regulating weights.

Movement decoration is executed to a high level, with a frosted finish on the bridges and base plate – all made of German silver plated in “black gold” – with lots of polished, bevelled edges and countersinks.


Key facts and price

T-01 First Edition

Case diameter: 40mm
Height: 11mm
Material: 18k red or white gold
Water resistance: 30m

Movement: T-01
Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds
Frequency: 21,600bph (3Hz)
Winding: Manual wind
Power reserve: 96 hours (4 days)

Strap: Alligator with 18k gold pin buckle

Limited edition: 25 each in 18k red and white gold
Availability: Direct from Tulloch with delivery 8 weeks from order
Price: To be announced

For more, visit Tulloch.com.


Correction November 26, 2019: Mr Tulloch is from New Zealand and not the United States, and the hour numerals are machined and not stamped. 

Update January 28, 2019: The retail price of the T-01 will be announced in 2020.

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Casio Introduces the G-Shock “Full Titanium” Camouflage

The GMW-B5000TCM-1.

Just a few months after the G-Shock 5000-series in titanium was unveiled, Casio has announced the G-Shock GMW-B5000TCM-1, which is essentially the same but with an unusual, laser-engraved camouflage pattern on the case and bracelet.

The pattern is achieved by varying the size of the pixels that make up the camouflage motif; three different pixel sizes are engraved to create shading of the camouflage.

The rest of the watch is identical to the standard titanium model, which means a sapphire crystal, black screen and gold accents. The case is in lightweight titanium case and bracelet – coated in black diamond-like carbon (DLC) – weighing just 110g in total.

(Editor’s note: I handled one just last week and it’s a cool-looking watch that light on the wrist, but the price is pretty steep for what it is, though it’s probably worth the premium just for the cool factor.)

Also announced at the same time is the G-Shock MTG-B1000DCM-1A, which has the same engraved camouflage pattern, except on the steel case and bracelet that have a black ion-plated (IP) coating.

G-Shock MTG-B1000DCM-1A


Key facts and price

G-Shock “Full Titanium” in camouflage print
Ref. GMW-B5000TCM-1JR

Diameter: 43.2mm
Height: 13mm
Material: Titanium engraved with camouflage pattern and coated with DLC
Water resistance: 200m

Movement: Electronic
Functions: Multi-function electronic with Bluetooth connectivity
Winding: Solar-powered
Power reserve: 22 months

Strap: Titanium bracelet

Limited edition: Limited production
Availability:
Worldwide at boutiques and retailers from November 2019
Price:
 US$1600, or 175,000 Japanese yen

For more information, visit Gshock.com.


 

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