Tulloch is a three year-old startup founded by a New Zealander living in New York City, Shane Tulloch, but it is making its debut with an unusual wristwatch with a regulator display, the T-01 First Edition.
It began in 2016 when Mr Tulloch, formerly a venture capitalist, came across a video of Eric Giroud discussing watch design. After meeting Mr Giroud, best known for his work on MB&F’s “Machines”, Mr Tulloch embarked on creating his own watch.
The T-01 is the work of a host of industry notables. Mr Giroud is responsible for the styling, while the movement and dial are the work of Kari Voutilainen and his associates at dial maker Comblemine (which he also owns): namely its director Christophe Beuchat and movement constructor Stéphane Bépoix.
The result is a time-only watch that’s minimalist in design but elaborately executed.
Time is indicated regulator-style, with the hours and seconds on eccentric sub-dials. While the main dial is sterling silver, each sub-dial is 18k white gold, with the raised hour numerals machined out of the dial and given a mirror polish.
Despite the asymmetry on the front, the movement is the opposite. A large 32mm in diameter, the movement is almost entirely symmetrical, with two large barrels providing 96 hours, or four days, of power reserve.
Each barrel cover is decorated with traditional guilloche engraved by a rose engine – the same sort of engine turning found on Voutilainen dials – that can be customised. And at the centre of each barrel is a jewel set in an 18k white gold chaton.
The twin barrels transmit power via the double-spoke gears of the wheel train, which are all rendered in 18k white gold.
And at the bottom sits the free-sprung balance wheel that has four 18k white gold regulating weights.
Movement decoration is executed to a high level, with a frosted finish on the bridges and base plate – all made of German silver plated in “black gold” – with lots of polished, bevelled edges and countersinks.
Key facts and price
T-01 First Edition
Case diameter: 40mm
Material: 18k red or white gold
Water resistance: 30m
Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds
Frequency: 21,600bph (3Hz)
Winding: Manual wind
Power reserve: 96 hours (4 days)
Strap: Alligator with 18k gold pin buckle
Limited edition: 25 each in 18k red and white gold
Availability: Direct from Tulloch with delivery 8 weeks from order
Price: To be announced
For more, visit Tulloch.com.
Correction November 26, 2019: Mr Tulloch is from New Zealand and not the United States, and the hour numerals are machined and not stamped.
Update January 28, 2019: The retail price of the T-01 will be announced in 2020.
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