Introducing the Avantist Arm Edition Sapphire Tourbillon

Skeleton movement by Concepto.

Established in 2015 by Bruneian entrepreneur Keeran Janin, Avantist differs from its startup peers with watches that are high-end complications, mostly created in collaboration with notable sportsmen and women. Its first watch incorporated strings from raquets used by tennis champion Martina Navratilova during her Grand Slam title wins.

And the latest is a skeleton tourbillon made for Thai golfer Kiradech Aphibarnrat. Better known by his nickname “Arm”, Mr Aphibarnrat is currently ranked 42nd in the world, and has 11 professional wins to his name.

He is also known for his flashy lifestyle and is often wearing a Richard Mille or Royal Oak. With its striking colours and open-worked movement, the Arm Edition Sapphire Tourbillon Watch is very much in the same vein.

Avantist Arm Edition Sapphire Tourbillon 3

It’s powered by a skeletonised movement with frosted, rose gold bridges sitting on a clear sapphire base plate. The tourbillon cage is in green, to match Mr Aphibarnrat’s personal colour, which is also echoed in the baguette-cut tourmalines on the bezel.

Avantist Arm Edition Sapphire Tourbillon 1

The movement is derived from the cal. 8100 produced by Concepto, a well regarded complications specialist founded by Valerian Jaquet that supplies movements to numerous independent watchmakers.

Mr Jaquet is the son of Jean-Pierre, who once led movement developer Jaquet (which later became La Joux-Perret) before legal issues and ensuring jail time ended his career.

The watch case is also sapphire crystal, essentially a sapphire donut that holds the movement with titanium flanks and lugs attached to each side. The crown and screws securing the bezel are in rose gold.

Avantist Arm Edition Sapphire Tourbillon 5

Avantist Arm Edition Sapphire Tourbillon 4

The Arm tourbillon is similar to the one-off Majesté tourbillon Avantist unveiled two years ago, conceived as a gift for Sultan Hassanal Bolkiah of Brunei. Powered by the same calibre, the Majesté had the names of the Sultan’s children engraved on its bezel.

Key Facts

Diameter: 42mm
Material: Titanium, 18k gold, and sapphire crystal, set with 44 tourmalines of 1.4 carats
Water resistance: 50m

Movement: Avantist calibre by Concepto
Power reserve: 72 hours

Price and availiablity

Limited to nine watches, the Arm Edition Sapphire Tourbillon (ref. ARM1-XX/09) is priced at US$262,000, and it is available direct from Avantist.


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Jaeger-LeCoultre Introduces the Master Grande Tradition Répétition Minutes Perpétuelle

With extra-long and extra-loud gongs.

Following the SIHH 2019 launch of the Master Grande Tradition Gyrotourbillon Westminster Perpétuel – one of the most complex watches ever produced by Jaeger-LeCoultre (JLC) – the brand is continuing with the ultra-complication theme.

The latest from Le Sentier is the Master Grande Tradition Répétition Minutes Perpétuelle, combining a perpetual calendar and minute repeater with a novel construction .

jaeger MGT Repetition Minutes Perpetuelle cal 950

Available with either a blue flinqué enamel dial or plainer silver grained dial, the watch has an 18k white gold case that measures 43mm wide and a surprisingly slim 13.72mm high.

Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Grande Tradition Répétition Minutes Perpétuelle 2

Unlike earlier generations of JLC complications that had simply designed cases, the new Master Grande Tradition case is notably detailed. It is made up of 80 hand-finished components, including separate lugs.

The case surfaces are finished with a mix of contrasting treatments – polished tops; recessed, sandblasted flanks; and a polished convex bezel.

Because the movement utilises the long-standing JLC perpetual calendar module (itself derived from IWC’s perpetual calendar mechanism introduced in the Da Vinci of 1985), it has a familiar layout with three sub-dials and a four-digit year display.

Additionally, it has a small safety indicator near the centre of the dial to warn against adjusting the calendar during its changeover between 8pm and 12pm, so as to avoid damage to the movement.

jaeger MGT Repetition Minutes Perpetuelle white

While the Gyrotourbillon Westminster Perpétuel was a repackaging of existing complications, the Répétition Minutes Perpétuelle brings something new to the table in mechanical terms.

The self-winding cal. 950 features a novel gong construction that elongates the gong and loops it around the entire height of the case to produce greater resonance.

Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Grande Tradition Répétition Minutes Perpétuelle 5

In a conventional minute repeater, a pair of gongs sit flat and circle the movement once in opposite directions.

However, in the new Répétition Minutes Perpétuelle, a pair of blued steel gongs are welded together at their base, and attached to the base plate with two screws. From there, the gongs encircle the calibre in the same direction, but not just around the circumference of the movement, but also its height.

Almost completing the entire perimeter of the movement on the back, the gongs then rise upwards towards the crystal before diverging in opposite directions around the dial. This configuration allows for a louder, deeper, and richer sound. And the unidirectional construction at the base, in theory, gives it a more sonorous bass note.

The minute repeater mechanism also incorporates the brand’s patented “trebuchet” hammers that were first introduced in 2005. In essence, the hammers have two pivots, just like the ancient catapult, to increase their leverage and enhance striking power, which in turn allows for a smaller striking barrel, without compromising on power reserve.

Even more unusual, the winding rotor is sandwiched between the perpetual calendar and minute repeater mechanism. In essence, the movement is a modular construction on both faces, with the perpetual module on the front, and the repeater module on the back.

Hence, the entire the striking mechanism is visible on the back of the watch and can be seen in action when the repeater is activated via a slide mounted on the left side of the case.

Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Grande Tradition Répétition Minutes Perpétuelle 1

Key Facts

Diameter: 43mm
Material: White gold
Water resistance: 50m

Movement: self-winding cal. 950
Power reserve: 38 hours

Price and Availability 

The Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Grande Tradition Répétition Minutes Perpétuelle with a blue flinqué enamel dial (ref. Q52334E1) is priced at 240,000, while the silver grained dial (ref. Q5233420) is priced at 225,000; prices exclude VAT.

Each is limited to 30 pieces.


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