One Rolex That Deserves Much More Love – The Cellini Moonphase

The poor man's "Bao Dai"?
Rolex Cellini Moonphase 50535 review 1

For much of its history, the Rolex Cellini line has been little loved. They had esoteric names – Danaos, Cestello and the radioactive Cellinium come to mind – and watches cases that were not Oysters.

Enter the Cellini Moonphase, the least Cellini-esque Cellini ever. Introduced last year, the Cellini Moonphase was the first Rolex with a moon phase since the 1950s. That should have been a big deal.

Rolex has banished the italicised “Cellini” on the dial, making the Moonphase the only Cellini that isn’t labelled as such. Name calling aside, the Cellini Moonphase is actually a strikingly well executed watch. In fact, it is practically an Oyster in all but name.


Oyster in disguise

The 39mm case is well proportioned, verging on being thick but not quite. It is also typical Rolex Oyster in form – a tonneau shape with a round bezel, built with outstanding rigidity and robustness. Its origins are also evident in the profile, with the lugs tapering downwards to a pointed tip. The case is also water-resistant to 50m, not quite Oyster territory but close enough.

Rolex Cellini Moonphase 50535 review 8

Both the bezel and case back have signature Oyster fluted rims, while the domed back is reminiscent of a Rolex “Ovettone”, the largish 1950s watches that were close relations of the Datejust.

Rolex Cellini Moonphase 50535 review 13

Rolex Cellini Moonphase 50535 review 7

Rolex Cellini Moonphase 50535 review 15

The vintage feel extends to the crown, which has a slight onion shape. The sapphire crystal is slightly domed, but it’s so slightly as to be almost imperceptible. An obvious dome would have contributed to a more retro feel.

Even the recessed pusher for the moon phase is robustly constructed, surrounded by a raised lip, presumably to prevent the stylus from sliding when setting the moon phase.

Rolex Cellini Moonphase 50535 review 9

Like nearly all current Rolex cases, it is entirely mirror finished, unlike the earlier generations of cases that had contrasting brushed and mirrored surfaces. While the uniform surface is easier to refinish during servicing, it isn’t quite as refined as a varied finish.


Starry but orderly

But the best part of the watch is the dial. To start with it is well proportioned, with the chapter rings and moon phase properly placed, without any clumsy overlapping. That’s not just good design, but it also means the movement was designed to fit the case and dial.

Rolex Cellini Moonphase 50535 review 10

The surface is a glossy white lacquer, with exceptionally crisp printing, right down to the serifs of the numerals. Like all other Cellini watches, the minute track intersects the baton hour markers. At first glance it feels unconventional, but it settles in well. And it also makes sense, since it puts a border between the date and minute tracks.

Rolex Cellini Moonphase 50535 review 5

Rolex Cellini Moonphase 50535 review 4

The baton hour markers are notable for being split lengthwise, yet they line up perfectly. The narrowness of the markers, which are 18k pink gold, means they are adhered to the dial rather than attached with pins, and the perfect alignment would imply they are applied mechanically, rather than by hand. The result is fine, yet precise.

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The dial design feels radial, a sensation enhanced by the four hands in the centre. All the hands are 18k pink gold, save for the blued steel pointer for the date.

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Naturally the highlight is the moon phase at six, smartly done in a combination of materials. The blue disc is fired enamel, evidenced by the slight unevenness of the surface visible under magnification, while the stars are printed in a granular metallic lacquer. The enamel disc is an unusual but pleasing old-fashioned choice of material, given Rolex’s inclination towards technology.

Rolex Cellini Moonphase 50535 review 2

The miniature moon jumps out, being strikingly silver thanks to the rhodium plating. It’s made of meteorite that’s been cut and then etched with acid to bring out the streaky Widmanstätten pattern of the iron crystals that make up the material.

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It’s worth pointing out the meteorite moon is domed, rather than flat, making it an impressive bit of micro-machining.

Rolex Cellini Moonphase Meteorite

A raw meteorite. (Source: Rolex)

Rolex Cellini Moonphase Meteorite slice

Raw meteorite sitting on etched meteorite. (Source: Rolex)


Functionally the watch is straightforward. The moon phase is adjusted via the pusher at eight o’clock – being able to do it via the crown would have been a welcome addition – and is accurate to a day in 122 years, which is standard in watchmaking.

The cal. 3195 is self-winding and a Superlative Chronometer, meaning it’s been tested as a movement by COSC, and then again as a complete watch by Rolex. Superlative Chronometers are rated to an impressive -2 to +2 seconds a day, no doubt a triumph of the remarkable engineering and manufacturing at Rolex.

The power reserve is 48 hours, a number that’s practically the industry norm, but not as useful as the three days of the latest generation Rolex movements, like that found in the new GMT-Master II with Jubilee bracelet for instance.

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Conveniently for frequent travellers, the hour hand is independently adjustable; that is also the method to set the date, both backwards and forwards. This means the time zone can be changed without affecting the time-setting.

But as with other Rolex watches with a second time zone hand, there is the slightest degree of play in the hour hand. In most other watches it doesn’t matter, since the hands are large, as are the hour markers. But on the Cellini Moonphase the lance-shaped hand ends in a sharp point, while the hour marker is equally narrow, meaning that the time has to be set carefully to so as to line up the hand and marker.


Like the watch case, the folding clasp, dubbed Crownclasp, is sturdily built and of top quality, closing with a crisp click. That being said, its ergonomics are not the best. The blades of the clasp are longer than the average folding buckle, which means it doesn’t sit as well.

And the stock strap is slightly plain, being a dark brown that doesn’t do much for the watch. The strap pictured is a custom burgundy hide that complements its colours better.

The final nit to pick is the box. The stylus for the moon phase is delivered in a small plastic cylinder, but the box lacks a recess to fit the stylus. It’s only worth a mention because everything else is so well thought out.


The qualities of the Cellini Moonphase are overwhelmingly positive. Its relative lack of desirability boils down to the name and unfair perception.

Imagine a watch exactly the same, except named the Oyster Perpetual Moonphase and paired with a Jubilee bracelet. Or take it a step further and do it only in stainless steel. Perhaps that idea has crossed someone’s mind at Rue François-Dussaud; it might sell rather well.


 

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Vintage Watches, Including Rolex, at Asprey During Madison Ave Watch Week in New York City

May 14 to 19, 2018.
Alex Ciani Asprey-Madison-Ave-Watch-Week 2018

A weeklong set of events centred on watch stores along Manhattan’s Madison Avenue from 57th to 71st Streets, Madison Avenue Watch Week is now in its eighth year, with participants this year including A. Lange & Söhne, F.P. Journe and Vacheron Constantin, as well as English jeweller Asprey.

Asprey will be hosting a pop-up store of vintage watches, with the selection curated by Alessandro Ciani and Giulio Bonaccio, both dealers in vintage and pre-owned watches. The selection will include mens’ and ladies’ timepieces, with specimens from brands like Audemars Piguet, Longines, Omega, of course Patek Philippe and Rolex; Asprey as it happens is also an authorised retailer for Rolex.

Alex Ciani Asprey 2018 Paul Newman

The vintage watch pop-up will be in at the Asprey store, located at

853 Madison Avenue
New York, NY 10021
USA

It’s open to the public daily from May 14 to 19, 10am to 6pm.

Photo credits: Alex Ciani


 

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Introducing the Bulgari Octo Finissimo Minute Repeater in Carbon

The world's thinnest repeating wristwatch gets a new case.

Back in 2016, Bulgari unveiled the Octo Finissimo Minute Repeater, the world’s thinnest minute repeater, with a case that measured a shade under 7mm. Radically, instead of using precious metals most commonly used in minute repeaters such as pink or yellow gold, Bulgari chose titanium for both the case and dial, benefiting its acoustics to to titanium’s low density.

At Baselworld this year Bulgari took the covers off a carbon composite version, with the case, bezel and case back made from Carbon Thin Ply (CTP), a carbon reinforced, thermo-set epoxy resin.

Apart from its unique and distinctive appearance, carbon composite offers stiffness and strength at a low density, which essentially means it transmits sound well. The case measures the same 40mm wide and 6.85mm high as the titanium version. The dial is also made of CTP with the same incised indices that serve to amplify the resonance of the cal. BVL 362 beneath.

102794 BGO40CCLMRXT OCTO

The BVL 362 is based on a 1981 Gerald Genta movement so was so thin the resulting watch set the record for the thinnest repeating wristwatch ever, just 2.72mm high. Its slimness meant it wasn’t particularly robust, which is why the BVL 362 has been fortified and is slightly thicker, but still a mere 3.12mm high.

Notably, the gongs are directly affixed to the case, instead of the movement as is convention, for optimal sound transmission. It uses a flat-spring barrel, as well as a floating crown wheel and mainspring barre, which are suspended on one side. The centrifugal strike governor itself has a total diameter of just 3.3mm.

The bracelet, however, is still titanium, but it barely tips the scales. The entire watch weighs just 47 grams.

Price and availability 

Limited to 50 pieces, the Bulgari Octo Finissimo Minute Repeater in Carbon is priced at US$160,000. It will reach stores after summer 2018.


 

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