While titanium and carbon composite are superior in transmitting sound thanks to their low density – making them ideal for striking watches – the new rose-gold version is irrefutably more striking, no pun intended, combining a starkly industrial design with the sheen of gold.
First unveiled in 2016, the Octo Finissimo Minute Repeater remains the thinnest minute repeater on the market, with the case measuring just 6.85 mm high. The new gold iteration, however, is a hair thicker at 6.9 mm to ensure case rigidity as gold is softer than titanium.
But the gold case retains the same all-matte, sandblasted case finish as the titanium model, creating a surface that is deliciously subdued. The dial is also made of rose gold, with the same perforated indices to better transit the sound from the movement to the case and crystal.
Measuring 40 mm wide, the watch is depth rated to 30 m, helped by the use of a pusher at nine o’clock to activate the repeater, which is easier to seal against moisture than a traditional slide.
The Genta connection
Underneath it is the hand-wound BVL362 that is based on a 2.72mm high movement conceived by Gerald Genta in 1981. The movement was re-engineered by Bulgari, and bulked up slightly to improve structural integrity and reliability.
However, at 3.12 mm high, the BVL362 movement is still remarkably thin, achieved with the use of a floating crown wheel and mainspring barrel, which are suspended on one end, as well as a flat hairspring as opposed to an overcoil, which would otherwise add to its height.
Lastly, it is equipped with a free-sprung balance wheel, and despite its height, it still manages a respectable 42-hour power reserve.
Key facts and price
Octo Finissimo Minute Repeater in Rose Gold
Case diameter: 40 mm
Material: 18k rose gold
Water resistance: 30m
Functions: Hours, minutes, and seconds; minute repeater
Frequency: 21,600 beats per hour (3 Hz)
Power reserve: 42 hours
Strap: Brown, matte leather
Availability: At both retailers and boutiques
Price: US$170,000, or 252,000 Singapore dollars
For more, visit Bulgari.com.
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