With fifty timepieces in total, ranging from minute repeating wristwatches to Dome Clocks, this year’s Rare Handcrafts collection launched at Baselworld 2018 is the largest to date (though the Aquanaut Chronograph and Nautilus Perpetual Calendar got way more headlines). The entire line-up will soon be on show in Geneva, at the historical, lakefront Patek Philippe Salons that sit on the posh Rue du Rhone shopping street.

While most of the Rare Handcrafts timepieces are enamelled – including a diversity of techniques like cloisonné, paillonné, grisaille, and the unusual Longwy enamel – the collection also includes watches decorated with wood marquetry, micro-sized pieces of exotic woods inlaid to form a motif.

Dome Clocks ref. 20072M “Arabic Calligraphy and Doves” and ref. 20056M “The Planets”

Ref. 982/185J “Leopard on the Watch”

Especially unusual are the minute repeaters with cloisonné or Azulejos enamelled dial, being one of the few handful of examples of “Grand Complications” with decorative dials. Notably, there are also a pair of ladies’ minute repeaters ref. 7000R avian-themed cloisonné dial.

Ref. 5539G-014 “Azulejos” minute repeater

Ref. 7000/50G-001 “Bird in White Gold” minute repeater

Ref. 5538G “Eagles in Flight”

All of the Rare Handcrafts watches are part of the collection, meaning they were made for sale, though several have already been spoken for.

The exhibition takes place from April 19 to 21, and is open daily to the public from 10am to 6pm.

Salons Patek Philippe
41, rue du Rhône
1204 Geneva
Switzerland
Tel.: +41 22 809 50 50

Previously only available in blue or white, Vacheron Constantin’s Overseas Self-winding and Chronograph have now been endowed with slick, black lacquered dials – a simple but effective face-lift that departs from the original colour palette and results in an undeniably more striking watch.

The Overseas Chronograph is distinguished by a “reverse panda” dial with white counters on black. It’s a fitting look – contrast-colour chronograph sub-dials have long been used on sports watches to improve legibility by clearly separating time-telling and elapsed time measurement.

While “panda” dials have become an overused design element in the retro remake playbook, the watch still appears fresh and modern because it is not a vintage reissue. And its moderately large dimensions – 42.5mm wide and 13.7mm thick – help as well.

Powering the watch is the in-house cal. 5200 that bears the Geneva hallmark. It’s a self-winding, column wheel chronograph movement with a vertical clutch.

The Overseas Self-winding measures 41mm in diameter and is powered by the cal. 5100, which is equipped with two mainspring barrels for a 60-hour power reserve. Its pure black dial makes for a cleaner and appropriately, more stoic appearance.

As is standard with the Overseas collection, both watches come with a set of three bracelets (steel, rubber and leather), which can be swapped on the go with a patented quick-release mechanism. Releasing a catch on the back of the strap quickly detaches it, with the replacement strap easily installed by snapping it on.

Price and Availability

The Overseas Chronograph (ref. 5500V/110A-B481) is priced at US$30,300 or S$44,500, while the Self-winding is priced at US$20,900 or S$30,800.