One of the longest-lived models in the IWC catalogue, the Portugieser Chronograph is simple, distinctive, and handsomely proportioned. Now it’s undergone a surprising makeover to create the Portugieser Chronograph Ceratanium, which has just debuted publicly on Ed Sheeran’s wrist during the musician’s tour of Australia.

Now in its second generation with an in-house movement, the Portugieser Chronograph has a clean aesthetic with vertically laid out registers and a large-but-thin case. Usually available only in gold or steel, the case is now Ceratanium, essentially titanium that’s been treated to form a hard ceramic layer on its surface.

Initial thoughts

IWC doesn’t put out many interesting watches now (regrettably), but the Portugieser Chronograph Ceratanium certainly stands out. Though it’s essentially a cosmetic variation of a familiar model, it is appealing.

I’ve long been a fan of the Portugieser Chronograph; I like the proportions and design. The design is now over 30 years ago but still feels fresh. The Ceratanium version is odd yet likeable. The all-black livery feels like a mismatch with the classical style, but somehow it works and fits the minimalist look.

Despite the appeal, the new Portugieser is expensive. It costs 50% more than the steel model, which feels like too much notwithstanding the qualities of Ceratanium. This is especially so given the Portugieser Chronograph is traditionally an entry-level chronograph for the brand. To be fair IWC prices all of its Ceratanium models at a significant premium (which arguably makes all of them too expensive).

Ceramic-titanium

The case retains the same dimensions as the standard model, but is entirely in Ceratanium, including the pushers and crown. Applied only to its Pilot’s Watches until now, the material is actually a titanium alloy that’s been fired in an oven to create a titanium oxide layer on its surface, explaining the matte black finish of the case. The layer imbues the case with greater scratch resistance, though like all such coatings it can be damaged with sufficient impact or wear.

The dial is rendered in shades of grey. This doesn’t maximise legibility, but it does look good. While the dial itself is black, the numerals and hands are in dark, glossy grey, and the registers are finished with concentric graining that gives them a lighter shade. All of the printing  on the dial and registers are also in dark grey.

The Ceratanium model is mechanically identical to the regular production version, so inside is the cal. 69355. The movement sits under a grey-tinted sapphire window, so it appears to have a dark finish, but it is actually unchanged.

The cal. 69355 was developed by IWC as a replacement for the ETA Valjoux 7750 that powered the first generation of the Portugieser Chronograph. It has similar specs in terms of dimensions and power reserve, but is substantially upgraded in terms of construction. Amongst other things, the 69355 has a column wheel, directly driven seconds, LIGA escapement, and “Magic Lever” winding.

Key facts and price

IWC Portugieser Chronograph Ceratanium
Ref. IW371631

Case diameter: 41 mm
Height: 13.1 mm
Crystal: Sapphire
Material: Ceratanium
Water resistance: 30 m

Movement: Cal. 69355
Features: Hours, minutes, seconds, and chronograph
Frequency: 28,800 beats per hour (4 Hz)
Winding: Automatic
Power reserve: 46 hours

Strap: Rubber with Ceratanium pin buckle

Limited edition: 1,500 pieces
Availability: At IWC boutiques and retailers
Price: CHF13,000 before taxes

For more, visit IWC.com.