With its sponsorship of Renault’s Formula 1 team, H. Moser & Cie. has created a limited edition for the occasion, the Streamliner Cylindrical Tourbillon Skeleton Alpine Limited Edition. This combines the brand’s unusual cylindrical tourbillon with its sporty Streamliner presented for the first on a strap instead of a bracelet.

Initial thoughts 

In the wake of its deal with the Alpine Motorsports, Renault’s sports car division, Moser’s latest limited edition is hardly a surprise. The concept of an open-worked tourbillon in a modern, sporty case is not a new one, but this is technically novel thanks to the tall cylindrical hairspring inside the tourbillon carriage, made possible thanks to Moser’s sister company that produces hairsprings.

Fortunately this is not a typical F1 watch dressed in team colours and sporting a logo. The entire face is devoid of branding and Alpine’s trademark blue instead forms the transparent sub-dial at 12 that contrasts with the anthracite bridges below. 

The removal of the bracelet, however, also removes some of the character of the Streamliner. This looks less distinctive than the typical Streamliner on a bracelet. That is not a permanent problem since a bracelet can be installed, and since the case is steel, at presumably moderate cost.

The Alpine edition retails for CHF89,000, a CHF10,000 increase over the recent Streamliner Tourbillon Skeleton that has a bracelet but no cylindrical hairspring. All things consider, the premium is fair.

Racing blue

The most interesting iteration of the Moser tourbillon, the cylindrical hairspring was previously found only in Pioneer and Endeavour limited editions. Though minor tweaks were made to the styling of the movement, it is largely identical to the calibre found in past models.

The flying tourbillon cage retains the trademark wide “V” form, but with taller pillars to accommodate the cylindrical balance spring that features Breguet overcoils at both ends.

Historically found in marine chronometers, a cylindrical hairspring “breathes” in a concentric manner, as opposed to the asymmetric expansion of a conventional, flat hairspring. The result is superior isochronism, meaning the balance wheel oscillates at virtually the same rate regardless of power reserve or position. 

Time is indicated on a sub-dial at 12 o’clock that’s clear synthetic spinel, a lab-grown version of the colour crystalline mineral. For legibility, the sub-dial features Super-LumiNova-coated indices and luminous resin inserts on the hands.

The steel case is in the cushion shape that defines the Streamliner and measures 42.3 mm in diameter and 11 mm high.  It sports a radially brushed bezel with broad mirror-polished bevels along its outline.

Visible through the back HMC 811, an in-house automatic calibre with a skeletonised gold oscillating weight. It has a useful power reserve of 74 hours thanks to a largish barrel that’s open worked to reveal the mainspring.

Key facts and price

H. Moser & Cie. Streamliner Cylindrical Tourbillon Skeleton Alpine Limited Edition
Ref. 6811-1200

Diameter: 42.3 mm
Height: 11 mm
Material: Stainless steel
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: 120 m

Movement: HMC 811
Functions: Hours, minutes and tourbillon
Frequency: 21,600 beats per hour (3 Hz)
Winding: Automatic
Power reserve: 74 hours

Strap: Rubber strap with folding clasp

Limited edition: 100 pieces
Availability: At H. Moser & Cie. boutiques and retailers
Price: CHF89,000

For more information, visit H-Moser.com.