Architect, Reimagined: The MB&F HM11 Art Deco

Sunbeams and ziggurats.

MB&F opens Dubai Watch Week with a thematic reinterpretation of the HM11 Architect: the HM11 Art Deco. While the underlying structure remains the same, including the strangely satisfying rotate-to-wind case, the latest version goes all in on Art Deco motifs, from sunbeams and stained glass to ziggurats.

The 20-piece limited edition also marks a subtle turning point: the growing influence of Maximilian Maertens, who has worked alongside Maximilian Büsser and Eric Giroud since joining the company as an intern in 2017.

Initial thoughts

Though ‘merely’ a new version of an existing watch, the HM11 Art Deco feels like a sign of things to come from MB&F. The original HM11 design originated, as so many MB&F products have, as a collaboration between Maximilian Büsser and designer Eric Giroud.

But Mr Büsser is not the only Maximilian to leave an imprint on the HM11 Art Deco; that would be the brand’s Senior Industrial Designer, Berlin-based Maximilian Maertens.

Mr Maertens joined MB&F as an intern in 2017, and has worked on a number of larger objects including the Orb clock made in collaboration with L’Epée 1839. Mr Giroud will no doubt remain as critical as ever, but the growing impact of Mr Maertens is something to watch as MB&F builds for the future.

Tangibly, the Art Deco is much the same watch as the HM11 Architect that debuted two years ago, with its novel rotate-to-wind case and movement. But while everything else seems to have gotten more expensive since 2023, the new HM11 retails for the same nominal price as the original, at just under CHF200,000.

Sunbeams and ziggurats

Given its similarity to its predecessor, the HM11 Art Deco distinguishes itself largely on the basis of design. The Art Deco movement has inspired Mr Maertens for years, and the era’s iconic motifs are woven throughout the design, making the watch something of an architectural treasure map.

The time display and power reserve dial are graduated with ‘sunbeam’-style markers. The sunbeam shape is something we’ve seen before from other Art Deco-inspired pieces like the Vacheron Constantin Les Cabinotiers “Tribute to Art Deco” ref. 6520C, and it works similarly well on the HM11. This is especially the case with the power reserve dial, which indicates the remaining hours of power with sunbeam-shaped markers of descending height.

Conveniently, the sunbeam shape already has precedent in watchmaking in the form of sword hands. The application of this motif to the dials seems like a natural fit, with sword-style hands that echo the sunbeam hour markers.

The hands are also an unexpected showcase for another aspect of the Art Deco movement: stained glass. The HM11 provides a subtle homage to this art form with hour, minute, and power reserve hands that are filled with translucent red enamel.

While not really in a position to be backlit, the hands are nonetheless a thoughtful touch that bridges the gap between the world of Art Deco architecture and that of contemporary independent watchmaking.

Another design element that became synonymous with Art Deco is the ziggurat motif, inspired by Mesoamerican architecture. In the HM11, the time-setting crown is serrated with a ring of small stepped structures clearly reminiscent of this influence.

A machine to live in

The HM11 Architect debuted along with Le Corbusier’s famous maxim, “A house is a machine to live in”. That idea spawned a horological machine inspired by the futuristic pod-like homes proposed during the 1960s an 1970s.

The domestic influence can perhaps best be seen in the presence of a thermometer, an uncommon feature in wristwatches. For the new edition, the typography for the temperature scale has been slightly reworked in an instantly appealing period-inspired font.

The machine itself still offers a relatively compact 42 mm diameter, though it sits up high on the wrist as a consequence of its rotating case structure. The case is made of grade 5 titanium, which helps offset the 23 mm case height; anything heavier would result in a top-heavy feel.

The case is also largely transparent thanks to a large central crystal flanked by four titanium lobes. The crystal itself features opaque borders in certain areas, created using metallisation to conceal the complex network of 19 gaskets that are required to keep the case water resistant to the stated depth of 20 m. As for the fluted lobes themselves, three of them contain dials, which display the time, power reserve, and temperature, respectively. The fourth lobe features a crown for setting the time.

Together, the four lobes provide ample grip for the rotating case, which serves two purposes. First, it enables any of the three dials to be oriented toward the wearer, and second, it facilitates rapid winding of the mainspring. Turning the case just 10 times charges the mainspring to full power, enough to run the slow-beat movement for 96 hours.

Interestingly, the HM11 movement has been subtly updated to support the Art Deco theme. This is most obvious in the gold-plated bridges that support the gear train, which have been machined to resemble sunray-stepped capstones.

The finishing is largely in line with that of other MB&F products, which is to say it’s remarkably well done and consistent. The finishing is thorough in a traditional sense, but MB&F’s use of colour elevates the appearance. The coloured plating on certain bridges, for example, emphasises the grain of the circular brushing, which is essentially flawless.

That said, the HM11 ranks amongst the higher tiers of the MB&F catalogue, so the watch features a few extra details where the finishing really shines. The tourbillon cage, for example, has been reshaped to fit the theme, and features four richly hand-finished lobes that are a treat for the eyes.

Key facts and price

MB&F HM11 Art Deco

Diameter: 42 mm
Height: 23 mm
Material: Titanium
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: 20 m

Movement: HM11
Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds, power reserve, and temperature
Winding: Manual wind
Frequency: 18,000 beats per hour (2.5 Hz)
Power reserve: 96 hours

Strap: Lizard strap with titanium folding buckle

Limited edition: Yes, 20 pieces (10 with blue dial plate and 10 with green dial plate)
Availability: At MB&F M.A.D. Galleries and eShop, as well as retailers
Price: CHF198,000 (excluding taxes)

For more, visit MB&F.com.

You may also enjoy these.

Reviews

Hands On: A. Lange & Söhne’s Saxonia Thin Onyx is German Formal

Well done and well priced.

One of the last launches of 2025 for A. Lange & Söhne, the Saxonia Thin Onyx is a riff on the brand’s most affordable and simplest watch. It’s only modestly different from the standard model – the dial is onyx stone while the case metal isn’t part of regular production – but the Saxonia Thin Onyx stands out.

The watch is almost the dictionary definition of a formal-wear timepiece: flat, two hands and minimal colour or embellishment, so much so it blends into conventional Western formal dress. In fact, this is one of the strongest offerings in the formal-dress-watch segment because it is stark, elegant, and priced well.

Initial thoughts

Lange tend towards the high end of the price spectrum simply because of the brand’s focus on complications and quality. And the brand has also raised retail prices significantly in the last few years. So an affordable-ish Lange that isn’t a run-of-the-mill watch is a good thing.

The Saxonia Thin Onyx is exactly that. While it is based on Lange’s entry-level dress watch, a fine but no frills timepiece, the onyx edition is different in look, feel, and materials.

It’s available in two metals not offered for the regular production – platinum and Honeygold – and the dial is of course onyx, a mineral stone used sparingly (so far) in limited editions. At 6.2 mm high, the case is half the thickness of a Datograph and sits flat against the wrist.

Though the case is 40 mm rather than the smaller size offered for the standard model, the onyx edition is still exceedingly elegant. I like the larger case size, especially here with the piano-black dial that might look too small in the smaller format.

This is an elegant, formal watch with a lot of polish – literally as the dial is mirrored. The look might be a little too formal for everyday wear, though it will be an easy watch to wear to the office or with long sleeves.

This aesthetic is unusual for Lange. While practically all of the brand’s watches possess a formal look, largely due to the German sensibilities in design, few of them are formal-dress watches since most are relatively complicated, thick, large, or all of the above.

Like the standard model, the Saxonia Thin Onyx is priced competitively. It holds its own in terms of quality against similarly priced competition; in fact it’s arguably a better value in some respects. One might argue this is a lot for a time-only watch, but in the context of today’s market the watch is priced well.

Also in its favour is the comparatively larger edition size by Lange standards, which improves availability. But it will remain special, since the absolute number is small by wider industry benchmarks.

Formal and fine

There’s no question the Saxonia Thin Onyx is a formal-dress watch. As a result, it is also simple with just hour and minute hands. This makes it the simplest Lange watch, but the high quality that defines the brand is still evident here.

The case and dial are typical Lange. The case sticks to the brand’s familiar design, but much, much slimmer than usual. It’s worth noting that despite the thinness, the case still feels robust, which is not always a given with extra-flat dress watches.

The Honeygold and platinum cases each have their own appeal, though the latter has a slight edge since the white metal feels more formal for me.

The dial is almost minimalist – a wide expanse of polished black onyx with solid gold baton indices along with the brand logo printed in white. The colour of the white print feels a little out of place though not distractingly so.

Turn the case over and the view is also simple – by Lange standards. The L093.1 movement has been condensed so it’s just 2.9 mm high, but it manages a decent 72-hour power reserve while incorporating the usual Lange hallmarks.

Amongst them are a trio of jewels in screwed gold chatons, a black polished steel cap for the escape wheel jewel, and hand-engraved balance cock with swan’s neck regulator. Most of these are anachronistic and unnecessary but they certainly are pretty.

With the (excessive) focus on movement decoration today, Lange is all the more notable for being able to pull off finishing of this quality for a competitive price compared to most of today’s hot independent watchmakers.