Rare Watches in Geneva kicks off the spring auction season for Christie’s. Some of the highlights amongst the sale’s 183 lots illustrates the history and evolution of horology, most notably with timepieces by Abraham-Louis Breguet and Francois-Paul Journe.

The notable F.P. Journe offerings include a Resonance pre-souscription and a Ruthenium full house, complete with numbered box. The standouts from Breguet include a pocket watch first owned by Pauline Bonaparte, Napoleon’s younger sister, an early striking carriage clock, and an intriguing Type XX precursor literally gone askew.

F.P Journe

Principally inspired by the work of A.-L. Breguet and Antide Janvier, Francois-Paul Journe’s landmark Chronomètre à Résonance was the first attempt at synchronised, coupled oscillators in a wristwatch. The first numbered 20 examples were reserved for a Breguet-style souscription series – paid in advance by the client – but were not the first made.

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A handful of pre-production watches were made for Basel 1999, followed by the pre-souscription series to which this watch belongs. About 20 watches starting from “21” onwards are pre-souscription, and this is “041/00R”. Notably, one example prior, “040/00R”, sold for a little under CHF1.4 million including fees at Christie’s in 2023, setting a record.

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The Ruthenium collection, built in 99 examples each across five models from 2001 to 2005, includes the Octa Calendrier, Octa Chronographe, Chronomètre à Résonance, Tourbillon Souverain, and Octa Réserve de Marche Jour et Nuit. All were housed in 40 mm platinum cases, with ruthenium dials and brass movements. Brass, of course, is more precious than gold to collectors.

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The Octa Réserve de Marche Jour et Nuit is special because it can only be found in the Ruthenium Collection. The Ruthenium Series also contains an interesting first-generation Tourbillon Souverain. It has the small screws of the fourth series, but uniquely has an up-sized 40 mm case, unlike the 38 mm cases normally found on the first generation.

This set is being sold separately, with the watches and matching box each making up one lot in the sale. Keen-eyed collectors will see that this is the same set of watches that was part of the OAK Collection.

A.-L. Breguet

Though relatively simple on its face, Breguet no. 2539 has historical significance. It was sold to Napoleon Bonaparte’s sister, Pauline, in 1813, for 2,400 francs.

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The watch has the refinements expected of Breguet’s work: para-chute shock protection and a ruby cylinder. Pauline’s watch is also a half-quarter repeater, which offers increased resolution over a quarter repeater but without the added complexity of a minute repeater.

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Also early and important is an early Empire-style carriage clock, number 2458, which was sold in 1809. Breguet is usually credited with inventing the carriage clock, and this one is even more important as it is one of the earliest that has come to market.

It has a quarter repeater and alarm (more accurately, a count-down timer). Below the dial is an in-line digital full calendar. And on top is a curved handle for ease of use when travelling; this was essentially the forerunner of the modern-day travel wristwatch.

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Lastly is a more recent, 20th century Breguet: an eccentric one-button chronograph retailed by Parisian jeweller Maison Burma in 1952. The movement has been rotated 45 degrees anti-clockwise, giving the watch an asymmetrical dial with the mono-pusher crown at two o’clock.

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Like the later Type XX issued to the French military, the “Burma” is housed in a large-for-the-time 38 mm steel case with a rotating bezel. Unlike the Type XX, it’s only a one-button chronograph, and the unmarked bezel doesn’t appear to have any useful purpose.

Like the Ruthenium set above, the “Burma” was part of the OAK Collection.

Image – Christie’s

The full catalogue is available on Christies.com.