One of the most beautiful, albeit not particularly novel, debuts at Watches & Wonders recently was the Patek Philippe Ref. 5370R-001 Split-Seconds Chronograph with a two-tone grand feu enamel dial in brown and cream. It’s merely a new variant of a longstanding model, but it is striking.
Prior versions were in platinum with a black and then blue enamel dial; this is the first model in rose gold and perhaps the first-ever modern-day Patek Philippe with a multi-part, two-tone enamel dial. Design aside, the ref. 5370R retains the same specs and movement as its predecessors.
Initial thoughts
I usually don’t like brown dials, and the ref. 5370R is merely a cosmetic tweak. The movement remains the same CHR 29-535 PS that is good looking and contains some clever technical features, but its decoration could be a little more artisanal for the price. Overall, the ref. 5370R isn’t fundamentally new.
And despite being in rose gold, it’s even more expensive than its predecessors in platinum, with a retail price crossing US$300,000. Being a Patek Philippe, the ref. 5370R is expensive, in the same manner that Ferrari and Hermes can charge more than the competition.
But despite so much going against it, the ref. 5370R is one of the few watches that has remained in my memory in the weeks after W&W. It is simply that beautiful. As the saying goes, if I could, I would.
The new ref. 5370 looks classical yet modern, and still captures the old school Patek Philippe aesthetic. The two-tone dial is made up of traditional elements but manages to look modern. The raised and recessed cream elements give the dial depth; though the joining of the various dial pieces doesn’t look perfect, at least on the prototype exhibited at the fair.
The overall look has a warmth that the earlier versions in platinum, appealing as they were, lacked. The platinum versions were formal, and now when seen in comparison to the rose gold model, a little cold.
The ref. 5370P-001 (left), and subsequent ref. 5370P-011
Is that all enough to justify the retail price of about US$300,000? Probably not but the ref. 5370R is a winner nonetheless.
I expect this won’t be the last Patek Philippe with a two-tone enamel dial, and with luck future variants will be simpler and more affordable.
Fired enamel
The ref. 5370R is really all about the dial. It’s unchanged in terms of design over the preceding version, but entirely different in colour and construction.
While the earlier versions of the model had one piece, single colour dials, the ref. 5370R has a four-part dial in two colours. The main section is glossy dark brown enamel, while the tachymeter scale and registers are in beige enamel. Notably, the tachymeter scale is raised, while the sub-dials are recessed, giving the dial a gentle, but important, sense of depth.
The two shades complement each other, and the case, perfectly. The finish of the enamel sections is also subtly different, which enhances their complementary nature. The central portion is evidently polished to a flat, mirrored finish, while the beige elements are more matte.
As is expected, the dial is almost entirely precious metal. The enamel is applied on a solid gold dial base, while the hands and applied hour numerals are also solid rose gold.
The execution of the dial is almost flawless, with the sole exception being the joints between the various parts. The borders are not perfect, though this could be a symptom of the watch pictured being a prototype exhibited at W&W. We’ll have to wait for examples to hit the stores to see how it is in serial production.
The rest of the watch is essentially identical to the earlier versions of the model. Instead of platinum, the case is in rose gold, but otherwise the same in size and finish. At 41 mm and almost 14 mm high, it’s a little large for a watch with an elegant design, but still acceptable for a modern split-seconds chronograph.
The case retains the brushed, recessed flanks that characterise this case style, along with the riveted discs at the end of each lug that serve as a decorative accent.
The movement also remains the same CHR 29-535 PS. Essentially the rattrapante version of the CH 29-535 found in the refs. 5172 and 5270, the CHR 29-535 PS is largely traditional in construction but incorporates patented several innovations that improve function but are not obvious, like optimised gear teeth profiles.
In technical terms, the movement manages to combine tradition and innovation, which is typical of Patek Philippe. Arguably nothing is missing from its construction, right down to the free-sprung Gyromax balance and polished steel cap over the column wheel.
As is typical for a traditionally constructed split-seconds movement, the calibre boasts significant visual depth thanks to the split-seconds mechanism stacked on top of the chronograph works.
As is convention, the split-seconds mechanism sits right in the centre of the movement, directly on the seconds axis. A pair of pincers, or brakes, sit on either side of the split-seconds wheel, stopping it when the function is activated. Each pincer is tensioned by an elegantly curved steel spring.
And like most newer split-seconds movements, the CHR 29-535 has an isolator that minimises drag when the split-seconds is stopped when elapsed time is running. This in turn minimises amplitude loss in the balance, preserving timekeeping even when the chronograph is running while the split-seconds is stopped.
The movement decoration is typical of high-end Patek Philippe calibres in that it’s a combination of mechanical and manual work, though majority of it appears to be finished off by hand. The bevelling on the bridges and levers, for example, have a mirrored, rounded surface that indicates hand finishing.
While the finishing is arguably as good as it gets for a large scale, industrial-artisanal brand, it could be a little more refined. That said, this calibre is well over a decade old, and Patek Philippe has been sharpening its approach in recent years. I imagine the successor to the CHF 29-535 PS will be much improved.
Concluding thoughts
The ref. 5370R is one of those irrational things – it’s just a rehash and pricey at that, but exceptionally appealing. It just looks and feels right. While many current Patek Philippe models don’t have the right blend of old and new in terms of design, the ref. 5370R achieves the perfect formula.
Key Facts and Price
Patek Philippe Split-Seconds Chronograph
Ref. 5370R-001
Diameter: 41 mm
Height: 13.56 mm
Material: 18k rose gold
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: 30 m
Movement: CHR 29-535 PS
Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds, and split-seconds chronograph
Winding: Manual wind
Frequency: 28,800 beats per hour (4 Hz)
Power reserve: 65 hours
Strap: Alligator leather with triple-fold clasp
Limited edition: No
Availability: Now at boutiques and authorised retailers
Price: CHF245,000 including taxes
For more information, visit Patek.com.
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