The third iteration of De Bethune’s swivelling, double-faced watch is the Kind of Two GMT “Season 3” conceived in collaboration with American rapper and watch enthusiast Swizz Beatz. Powered by the hand-wound DB2517 movement, the watch indicates one time zone on the front and another on the reverse, with both sides able to be worn face up thanks to patented, pivoting “floating” lugs.

Initial thoughts

The Kind of Two series employs a useful reversible case, cleverly using the “floating” lug construction of the DB28 to create a double-faced watch. Here one dial is traditional with blued steel hands, and the other an open-worked face revealing the movement that also has a regulator-style display for the second time zone.

The clever approach with a unique movement is typical De Bethune, although this loses some novelty as the third double-faced watch in the De Bethune line-up.

The Kind of Two GMT is definitely one of the most elaborate two time zone watches on the market, but at over US$200,000, it is pricey for a GMT, even by the standards of independent watchmaking (Voutilainen’s GMT, for instance, costs less).

Two-faced

The “Season 3” edition adopts a restrained palette of black and gold with blue accents. The 43.3 mm by 11.4 mm case is titanium and zirconium, with blued steel hands and a blue-and-black guilloche dial centre on the front showing local time. Notably, this dial includes a jumping seconds that is driven by a secondary escapement visible on the reverse.

Showing home time, the reverse has striking gold accents thanks to the gold and gilded movement components, while the second time zone hands are in blued steel. Here the display is done regulator style, with hours indicated in a sub-dial at six o’clock and minutes on the periphery.

Both sides can display independent time zones, both of which can be set separately via the three-position crown.

Powering the watch is the hand-wound DB2517, a variant of a calibre found in other De Bethune models with deadbeat seconds. The movement runs at 36,000 beats per second (5 Hz) and offers a four-day power reserve. It incorporates numerous De Bethune innovations, including a titanium-and-gold balance wheel and silicon escape wheel.

Key facts and price

Diameter: 43.3 mm
Height: 11.4 mm
Material: Grade 5 titanium and matte black zirconium
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: 30 m

Movement: DB2517
Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds and GMT
Winding: Hand-wound
Frequency: 36,000 beats per hour (5 Hz)
Power reserve: 4 days

Strap: Nubuck velcro strap

Availability: At De Bethune and its authorised retailers 
Price: US$235,000 before taxes

For more, visit Debethune.ch.

Grand Seiko’s flagship chronograph gets a new dial with the Tentagraph SLGC007 that just launched at Watches & Wonders 2025. Nearly identical to its predecessor, the SLGC001 with a dark blue dial, the new iteration distinguishes itself through a striking grey dial embossed with a pattern inspired by freshly fallen snow. This is matched with contrasting black sub-dials that coordinate seamlessly with the ceramic bezel, setting it apart from the earlier model.

Initial thoughts

The SLGC001 was a significant milestone for Grand Seiko — serving as the brand’s first mechanical chronograph — the new iteration of the Tentagraph is a just cosmetic variant. It has all the strengths and weaknesses of the original, though the dial is more attractive. This refreshed dial is far more appealing than the original in blue, as blue is somewhat overused in sports watches. The “panda”-esque black registers are also a nice touch that add to the sporty design.

Priced at US$14,700, the Tentagraph SLGC007 is priced reasonably – but not quite the same value proposition as the average Grand Seiko.

The Tentagraph has an impressive list of features, most obviously the in-house cal. 9SC5 with Grand Seiko’s proprietary Dual Impulse Escapement, and a high level of fit and finish, but the movement is modular in construction, which should not be a case for a flagship chronograph from a respected watchmaker.

Nature inspired once again

As is often the case with Grand Seiko dials, the SLGC007 dial is meant to evoke Mount Iwate, a peak near Grand Seiko’s workshop. It has a fine, radial pattern in a blue-grey finish that pairs well with the slightly glossy sub-dials.

Beyond this aesthetic update, the watch remains identical to the earlier model, featuring a 43.2 mm titanium case that houses the in-house cal. 9SC5. Operating at 36,000 beats per hour (5 Hz), the movement offers a robust 72-hour power reserve.

The chronograph employs a column wheel and vertical clutch, which are essentially the norm for modern chronograph movements, but it is a modular mechanism that is added on top of the base movement. The base calibre, however, is Grand Seiko’s newest and greatest mechanical movement and incorporates all of the brand’s recent innovations.

Key facts and price

Grand Seiko Evolution 9 Collection Tentagraph
Ref. SLGC007

Diameter: 43.2 mm
Height: 15.3 mm
Material: Titanium
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: 100 m

Movement: Cal. 9SC5
Functions: Hours, minutes, running seconds, chronograph, and date
Winding: Automatic
Frequency: 36,000 beats per hour (5 Hz)
Power reserve: 72 hours

Strap: Titanium bracelet

Limited edition: No
Availability: At Grand Seiko boutiques and select retailers starting May 2025
Price: US$14,700

For more, visit grand-seiko.com.