Grand Seiko’s flagship mechanical chronograph has been reimagined as the Sports Collection Tokyo Lion Tentagraph SLGC009. Executed in the brand’s proprietary “Brilliant Hard Titanium”, the oversized, facetted case is inspired by the paw of a lion, the historical emblem of Grand Seiko.

This is the first time the Tentagraph movement is being combined with the Tokyo Lion case, setting it apart from the original model that was in the classic Grand Seiko Evolution 9 design.

Initial thoughts

While the original Tentagraph was conventional in style, the Tokyo Lion edition is big and bold. The watch has presence on the wrist. The case is large at 43 mm wide and almost 16 mm high, with its many facetted surfaces catching the light nicely. While the concept of a lion-inspired case might sound gimmicky, the new Tentagraph has its own appeal.

The size and style makes this less of a low-key everyday watch than the first Tentagraph, but definitely more striking and original. Even though the Tokyo Lion case is arguably an acquired taste, I like this more than the original.

At US$16,400, the Tokyo Lion Tentagraph is one of Grand Seiko’s priciest models in non-precious metal. But it is a flagship watch with a latest-generation movement, the cal. 9SC5, which incorporates the proprietary Dual Impulse Escapement and a free-sprung balance. The only shortcoming of the watch is the modular construction of the movement.

Ten beats per second

While the Tokyo Lion case design has been employed before, the Tentagraph edition takes the styling even further. The case seems to have more facets and edges than prior Tokyo Lion models; even the pushers are modelled on a lion’s claws. It’s entirely in Brilliant Hard Titanium, one of Grand Seiko’s own alloys that is harder than conventional titanium, allowing it to take on a brighter finish, especially on its polished surfaces.

Like the case, the dial is inspired by a lion, with its texture supposed to bring to mind a lion’s mane. Interestingly, the registers are all bowl-shaped, which gives the dial a greater sense of depth.

And in a first for Grand Seiko that typically relies either on a bracelet or leather strap, the new Tentagraph is fitted to a moulded rubber strap – with an embossed lion’s paw motif on its underside – and an angular titanium folding clasp that echoes the case design.

Visible through the open back is the Tentagraph cal. 9SC5, which layers a chronograph module over the cal. 9SA5 base movement. Operating at 36,000 vibrations per hour (5 Hz), the movement counts ten beats per second, hence the Tentagraph moniker. Like other latest-generation Grand Seiko movements, the cal. 9SC5 is dressed up with striping, bevelled edges, and chamfered countersinks.

Key facts and price

Grand Seiko Sports Collection Tokyo Lion Tentagraph
Ref. SLGC009

Diameter: 43 mm
Height: 15.6 mm
Material: Brilliant Hard Titanium
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: 200 m

Movement: Cal. 9SC5
Functions: Hours, minutes, running seconds, chronograph, and date
Winding: Automatic
Frequency: 36,000 beats per hour (5 Hz)
Power reserve: 72 hours

Strap: Brown rubber strap

Limited edition: No
Availability: At Grand Seiko boutiques and select retailers starting August 2025
Price: US$16,400

For more, visit grand-seiko.com.

A new addition to the revived Ingenieur introduced two years ago, the Ingenieur Automatic 35 is just 35 mm in diameter and 9.44 mm thick, giving it a more streamlined profile than its 40 mm sibling. The size brings to mind the Ingenieur ref. 3521 of the 1990s that was just 34 mm wide.

Beyond its compact dimensions, it preserves the hallmarks of the Ingenieur design, including a brushed bezel and case with polished chamfers, and matching integrated bracelet. The new Ingenieur is offered in stainless steel, with a choice of black or white dials, or in 18k red gold.

Initial thoughts

The modern-day Ingenieur 40 is a relatively faithful homage to the 1970s Ingenieur SL designed by Gerald Genta. The new 35 mm model retains the same styling but harks back to the smaller, 1990s model, filling out the Ingenieur line with a smaller offering.

The smaller model has the same strengths and weaknesses as its larger cousin: an appealing historical design, solid execution of the case and bracelet, but a middling in-house movement matched with a relatively high retail price of US$9,950 in stainless steel and US$37,500 in red gold.

Compact profile

With a 35 mm diameter and a thickness of 9.44 mm, the new Ingenieur is what would be described as mid size by modern standards. Beyond the smaller form factor, it remains nearly identical to its 40 mm counterpart.

It’s offered in stainless steel or 5N red gold with a matching bracelet. Notably, the gold version features a gold-plated dial with solid gold applied indices.

Distinguishing it from the 40 mm version that has a solid back, the 35 mm model features a sapphire back, providing a view of the cal. 47110.

It’s one of IWC’s entry-level in-house movements but nonetheless dressed up modestly with circular striping and a gold-plated oscillating weight. It operates at 28,800 vibrations per hour (4 Hz), and offers a 42-hour power reserve.

Key facts and price

IWC Ingenieur Automatic 35
Ref. IW324903 (18k 5N red gold)
Ref. IW324901 (stainless steel with silver dial)
Ref. IW324906 (stainless steel with black dial)

Diameter: 35 mm
Height: 9.4 mm
Material: Steel; 18k 5N red gold
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: 100 m

Movement: Cal. 47110
Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds, and date
Frequency: 28,800 beats per hour (4 Hz)
Winding: Automatic
Power reserve: 42 hours

Strap: Matching integrated bracelet

Limited edition: No
Availability: Now at IWC boutiques and retailers
Price: US$9,950 for stainless steel, and US$37,500 for 5N red gold

For more, visit iwc.com.

Right on time for Breguet’s 250th anniversary this year, Phillips just revealed it will soon be selling Breguet Sympathique no. 1, the unique, entirely gold clock created as a tribute to the 19th century originals made by Abraham-Louis Breguet. This is the first time the clock is emerging in public after it was first sold in 1991.

Actually a clock with an accompany wristwatch (that can be transformed into a pocket watch), the Sympathique is masterful, modern-day creation that reproduces the genius of A.-L. Breguet’s original concept of a master clock that winds and sets a removable watch over the course of the night, allowing the owner to retrieve the watch for use the next day.

The first of a 20-piece series, clock no. 1 is most unique in both entirely solid gold – the master clock, wristwatch, pocket watch case, and bracelet are all in 18k yellow gold.

Like the rest of the series it was constructed by Techniques Horlogères Appliquées (THA) in Sainte-Croix, a complications workshop that is today most famous for having had Francois-Paul Journe, Denis Flageollet, and Vianney Halter amongst its alumni.

One of the artisans who worked on the Sympathique series was Dominique Mouret, a clockmaker who today still restores antique clocks in his workshop in Sainte-Croix.

The clock comes straight from the collection of the original owner who paid CHF1.55 million at The Art of Breguet auction held by Antiquorum in 1991. It has an estimate in excess of CHF1.00 million, but I think anyone wanting to buy it would need at least CHF2.50 million to be competitive.

Sympathique no. 1 will be sold at Phillips’ Geneva auction taking place on May 10 and 11, 2025.