MB&F turns 20 this year, and is celebrating in style with a number of new releases planned. The first was the launch of the Legacy Machine Longhorn editions just under a month ago, and today the brand has partnered with Bulgari to unveil the Bulgari x MB&F Serpenti, a new take on the Italian jeweller’s iconic Bulgari creation.

Available in three separate limited editions of 33 pieces each in titanium, rose gold, and steel (pictured above, left to right), the Serpenti takes on the provocative form of a serpent’s head, with the time read via rotating domes inside the creature’s “eyes”.

Initial thoughts

I’ve always appreciated the Bulgari Serpenti, arguably the only successful watch model to break with conventional bracelet design. So I was intrigued to see the brand’s collaboration with MB&F dispense with the iconic spiral-shaped bracelet and focus instead on the serpent’s head.

The intrigue of this Serpenti is centered on its case, which is understandably complex to create, given its flowing, organic shape and the need for enough precision to seal all five oddly shaped sapphire crystals well enough to earn a 30 m water resistance rating. With hinged lugs front and rear, the Serpenti will likely wear well on most wrists, despite its 18 mm thickness and 53 mm case length.

The Serpenti is brought to life by a bespoke movement born from the HM10 Bulldog. Like its predecessor, the time is read via the “eyes” which are comprised of paper-thin aluminium domes; hours are ready through the beast’s right eye, the minutes via its left. For the wearer, this creates an intuitive left-to-right reading of the time. The movement also offers a power reserve indicator, read via its case back.

It’s always difficult to objectively assess the value of watches like the Serpenti, since they are quite unlike anything else. That said, at US$148,000 in steel or titanium and US$170,000 in rose gold, the Serpenti is priced on the high side compared to other MB&F models, even those which offer additional complications.

Unexpected but sensible

MB&F is no stranger to collaborations, having worked repeatedly with brands like H. Moser & Cie., designers like Alain Silberstein, and artisans like Eddy Jaquet, among others.

But collaborating with a much larger legacy brand like Bulgari is a little outside the norm, even if it’s not the first time (that honour goes to the Legacy Machine FlyingT Allegra of 2021 that was the brand’s first collaboration with Bulgari, and way back in 2010 MB&F and Boucheron worked together on an HM3).

That said, it’s a sensible collaboration in the sense that MB&F is one of the few brands that has proven capable of making outrageous, animal-themed watches that collectors take seriously. The reimagining of the Serpenti concept, focusing on the serpent’s head and eyes, is a perfect fit for MB&F’s aesthetic and know-how when it comes to complex case forms with numerous shaped sapphire crystals.

The collaboration is also a sign of MB&F’s continued independence. Despite having sold a minority stake in the business to Chanel last year, MB&F is proving that it can still partner with brands owned by LVMH, a major rival to Chanel in numerous luxury categories. Interestingly, this is not the first time that MB&F has collaborated with an LVMH brand, having previously collaborated with clockmaker L’Epee numerous times.

While it’s true these products were long in development since before the Chanel investment, the fact that they continued to production is a good sign for MB&F’s independence.

A familiar engine

Though Bulgari’s name is given top billing, this Serpenti is an MB&F product through-and-through, with a movement based in part on that of the HM10 Bulldog. Among the features in common are the large 14 mm balance wheel beating at 2.5 Hz, a 45-hour power reserve, and separate crowns for winding and setting.

As is typical for MB&F, the finishing is carefully done to emphasise the key elements of the design. In particular, the large balance bridge is the focal point, and is decorated attractively with hand-polished anglage.

The rest of the movement is more industrially finished, but is nonetheless executed to a very high standard. On the reverse side, the striping is neatly done and the dark treatment on the bridges contrasts nicely with the gilded train wheels.

Key Facts and Price

Bulgari x MB&F Serpenti

Diameter: 53 x 39 mm
Height: 18 mm
Material: Titanium, PVD-coated stainless steel, or rose gold
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: 30 m

Movement: HM Serpenti
Functions: Hours, minutes, and power reserve indicator
Winding: Hand-wound
Frequency: 18,000 beats per hour (2.5 Hz)
Power reserve: 45 hours

Strap: Hand-stitched rubber strap with matching buckle

Limited edition: 33 pieces in each metal
Availability: Bulgari boutiques, MB&F retailers and M.A.D Galleries
Price: US$148,000 (titanium or steel), US$170,000 (rose gold)

For more, visit MBandF.com.

Correction February 12, 2025: MB&F is marking its 20th anniversary this year, and not 25 years as indicated in an earlier version of the article.