Bulgari upgrades its signature snake-inspired watch with an all-new, in-house movement. Retaining the familiar oval case, the Serpenti Automatic debuts in two variants, the Serpenti Seduttori Automatic and Serpenti Tubogas Automatic, both equipped with the BVS100 calibre.

A hint of where the LVMH watch brands are going, the BVS100 is a compact, workhorse automatic movement developed by Bulgari and slated to be produced by sister brand Zenith for other brands in the LVMH stable.

Initial thoughts

The historical Serpenti in enamel is arguably an iconic women’s watch, and the modern-day take on the design is bigger, bolder, and sports cleaner lines. While the Serpenti Seduttori is more subtle, the Tubogas version is especially compelling with its double-twirl bracelet that is classic Bulgari.

The in-house movement is a worthy upgrade for this iconic design, although the movement is an industrial calibre rather than a high-end creation. That, however, is reflected in the relatively affordable price of the entry-level models, which start at about US$10,000. While the price is on the high side for a time-only watch with a straightforward automatic movement, it can be rationalised by the iconic design and excellent bracelet work, even on the base models.

All-new movement

The Serpenti Seduttori is offered in seven distinct variations — stainless steel, yellow gold, rose gold, rose gold two-tone, and white gold — with the option of diamond settings for the yellow gold and white gold models. In contrast, the Serpenti Tubogas is exclusively available in rose gold, though other variants are a certainty in the future.

Modelled on the head of a snake, the case remains identical in shape but now contains the Lady Solotempo BVS100 calibre, which was developed from the ground up for the dimensions required to fit within the Serpenti case.

The BVS100 found in the Serpenti is customised with a bi-directional rotor embellished with a stamped serpent scale motif. While the inaugural run of the BVS100 is being produced at Bulgari’s manufacture in Le Sentier, the movement will also be produced at Zenith’s manufacture for other LVMH brands.

Key facts and price

Bulgari Serpenti Seduttori Automatic
Ref. 103898 (yellow gold)
Ref. 103899 (rose gold)
Ref. 104058 (rose gold and stainless steel)
Ref. 104060/104062 (stainless steel)
Ref. 103992 (yellow gold with diamonds)
Ref. 103990 (white gold with diamonds)

Diameter: 34 mm
Height: Unavailable
Material: Stainless steel; rose gold with stainless steel; rose gold; yellow gold; yellow gold with diamonds; white gold with diamonds
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: 30 m

Movement: Cal. BVL100 Lady Solotempo
Functions: Hours, minutes, and seconds
Winding: Automatic
Frequency: Unavailable
Power reserve: 50 hours

Strap: Matching second-skin bracelet accented with hexagonal scales

Limited edition: No
Availability: Now at Bulgari boutiques
Price: Refs. 104060 and 104062 CHF9,500; ref. 104058 CHF15,900; Refs. 103899 and 103898 CHF34,800; Ref. 103992 CHF117,000; and ref. 103990 CHF122,000

Bulgari Serpenti Seduttori Automatic
Ref. 103903 (single-twirl)
Ref. 103905 (double-twirl)

Diameter: 35 mm
Height: Unavailable
Material: Rose gold
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: 30 m

Movement: Cal. BVL100 Lady Solotempo
Functions: Hours and minutes
Winding: Automatic
Frequency: Unavailable
Power reserve: 50 hours

Strap: Matching single or double-twirl bracelet

Limited edition: No
Availability: Now at Bulgari boutiques
Price: Ref. 103903 CHF39,000; ref. 103905 CHF49,000

For more, visit Bulgari.com