First launched in 18k yellow gold a little over two years ago, the Vacheron Constantin Historiques 222 finally debuts in stainless steel. Sticking to the familiar vintage-remake template established by the gold model, the 222 retains the familiar “bottle cap” bezel and applied Maltese cross emblem, but in brushed steel.

Like the gold model, the 222 “Jumbo” in steel is executed to a high level of fit and finish – certainly superior to that of the vintage original – and it’s presented in the classic livery of a matte blue dial (great) and faux-vintage lume (not so much). More importantly, the steel 222 substantially more affordable than the gold version, about half as expensive in fact.

Initial thoughts

The 222 in gold was well received at launch in 2022; it helped that the roll-out took place when integrated bracelet sports watches were all the rage. That success made the steel version a certainty. Vacheron Constantin (VC) took a little longer than I expected to unveil the steel 222, but now it’s finally here.

The watch is, admittedly, predictable. It has all of the familiar elements found in the vintage originals and then the gold reissue. But it is still appealing, because the quality of execution is high and the proportions of the watch are good.

Compare this to a vintage 222 and the improvement in build quality, particularly of the bracelet, is immediately obvious. Although the steel 222 is compact by modern standards, it has the refined quality of a contemporary watch.

In fact, the steel is a little more appealing than the gold version because it is lightweight and more utilitarian to a degree. Though it’s almost a generic colour for such sports watches, the blue dial is good looking.

I’m not a fan of the ivory Super-Luminova, however, as it feels affected. The steel 222 is a faithful vintage remake, but it is clearly a modern watch, so I would have preferred clean white lume.

Overall the steel 222 is done well. It’s not imaginative but it is appealing. The watch is also priced reasonably as such things go. Add to that the general slowdown in demand for luxury sports watches, and the steel 222 is much more accessible than its gold counterpart.

That said, CHF32,000 is still a lot for a stainless steel sports watch, even if the execution is as good as it gets in the class (and the same applies for the Patek Philippe Cubitus ref. 5821/1A that’s even a little pricier).  That’s not a criticism of the 222 per se since it reflects the price index of the wider market, but it’s still significant.

A familiar formula

The 222 is part of the Historiques collection, which means it is a vintage remake. So the design doesn’t take any creative liberties, but that’s precisely the point.

The steel 222 looks much like the vintage original at a distance – it is the same 37 mm diameter – but in the hand it feels like a more substantial and refined watch. The steel 222 essentially replicates the design of the original, but to modern standards of quality.

The Maltese cross inlaid into the lower right corner of the case is solid 18k yellow gold

The bracelet and clasp in particular stand out for being solid and finely detailed, in contrast to the original that has a somewhat dinky bracelet (which is not really a criticism since it is standard for most watches of the period). The pins that secure the bracelet links, for instance, are concealed, with only the screws for removable links visible close to the clasp.

The bracelet lacks a micro-adjustment mechanism in the clasp, but it compensates with half-links for a better fit

Like the gold version, the steel 222 is mostly brushed in keeping with the original’s finish. But here the result is a more functional looking watch as compared to the bright lustre of the gold 222.

Though the case finish is mostly straightforward, it is done especially well on the “bottle cap” bezel, which is brushed but sits on a polished base.

While the gold 222 has a bright gilt dial, the steel version gets a more restrained dial in matte dark blue. The blue is a handsome shade that seems a little brighter than that on the vintage version. It’s paired with off-white lume, which is probably the only element on the watch that I wish were done differently.

Despite the retro simplicity of the dial, it is done in the usual VC manner, so the hour indices, hands, and Maltese cross are solid white gold. Because the dial is basically a replica of the vintage original, the styling and details aren’t fancy, but the use of white metal makes it little more precious.

The 222 in steel is sized almost identically to the vintage original, giving it an elegant, compact profile. It’s worth noting the case is a little under 8 mm high, which is very thin, though the watch doesn’t feel ultra-thin because of the smallish diameter.

The case construction and movement, however, are entirely different. While the vintage 222 had a one piece case with the movement installed through the dial opening, the modern remake has a conventional case construction with a press-fit case back featuring a sapphire window.

Like the gold version, the new 222 in steel is also powered by the cal. 2455/2, the workhorse automatic used across VC’s product lines. It’s a relatively thin automatic that’s dressed up with a rotor unique to the 222 – the rotor is 22k gold and decorated with a relief border that mimics the “bottle cap” bezel.

The cal. 2455/2 is mostly identical to the other variants of the movement utilised by VC. One of its more visible characteristics is the elaborate hacking mechanism made up of several levers that stops the balance when the crown is pulled for time setting.

It’s also finished similarly to most comparable VC movements. That means it’s hallmarked with the Poincon de Geneve, entailing a certain level of decoration, which means it’s as good as it gets for industrial haute horlogerie.

As I commented with the gold 222, I would have preferred the steel version to contain the cal. 1120, the slimmer calibre that was found in the vintage original and still employed by VC in the Overseas Perpetual Calendar.

Being a decades-old movement, the cal. 1120 is a little more anachronistic, but a welcome historical reference. It is far more difficult to assemble, however, which means it isn’t economical in a fairly basic watch like the 222. With the usual margins, I expect a 222 with the cal. 1120 to cost at least 50% more at retail.

Concluding thoughts

The 222 in steel is competently executed in all respects. It sticks to the Historiques philosophy and stays faithful to the original in look and feel, while upgrading the quality of the case and bracelet to modern standards. The faux-vintage lume is a bit too historical for me, but I can see why it was done that way.

The relative accessibility granted by the case material and overall market means this is arguably a more compelling proposition than the gold version before it.

Vacheron Constantin Historiques 222
Ref. 4200H/222A-B934

Case diameter: 37 mm
Height: 7.95 mm
Material: Stainless steel
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: 50 m

Movement: Cal. 2455/2
Features: Hours, minutes, and date
Frequency: 28,800 beats per hour (4 Hz)
Winding: Automatic
Power reserve: 40 hours

Strap: Stainless steel bracelet

Limited edition: No
Availability: At Vacheron Constantin boutiques only
Price: CHF32,000; US$32,000 before taxes; or S$46,100 including GST

For more, visit Vacheron-constantin.com.