Best known for its TV-shaped watch, Hautlence marks its 20th anniversary this year with something radically different, but also entirely apt: the Retrovision ’47. Cleverly inspired by a 1940s radio, the watch has a titanium case painted in a bright green that contains a self-winding movement with a flying tourbillon.

Though it’s powered by an existing movement (borrowed from Moser), the Retrovision ’47 is the brand’s first all-new model in a long time. Whether it marks a new direction for the brand is unknown, but it definitely makes a statement.

Initial thoughts

The Retrovision ’47 is a weird and interesting watch that is a surprisingly creative take on the vintage-inspired timepiece. Even though it is outlandish, the Retrovision ’47 is coherent. The watch achieves what it sets out to do: instantly evokes a vintage radio.

It’s paradoxical in several ways: not exceptionally large, but it stands out because of its shape and colour. And at a distance, the Retrovision ’47 resembles a plastic toy, but up close the fit and finish make it clear that this is a high-end watch.

I doubt I would wear one, but Hautlence should be commended for doing something bold and different. Beyond the watch itself, however, Hautlence still needs work.

Weird and wonderful as it is, the Retrovision ’47 doesn’t explain where Hautlence is going, or even what the brand is really all about now. Even though the watch has a quirky, intrinsic appeal, the brand behind it still needs clarity.

A weird little watch

Now a sister company of H. Moser & Cie., Hautlence enjoyed early success with its TV-shaped retrograde minutes and jump hours, but was more or less dormant for several years as its owners, the Meylan family, concentrated on Moser. As a limited edition of just ten watches, the Retrovision ’47 feels like a low-key reboot of the brand.

The Retrovision ’47 is modelled on the 5A5 radio made in the 1940s by General Television & Radio Corp., a long-defunct American electronics manufacturer. Like many radios of the period, the 5A5 was encased in Bakelite and other thermoplastics, and available in a range of colours, including green with a faux-marble effect.

The Retrovision ’47 next to the 5A5 radio that inspired it. Image – Hautlence

The Retrovision ’47 reproduces the look of the radio with a titanium outer case that’s been painted by hand to recreate the marbled green finish. The painted shell is surprisingly artful in replicating the look of the original. It encloses a titanium inner case that contains the movement, while two “carrying handles” form the lugs.

Measuring 39.2 mm by 44.4 mm, the case is chunky but not large, and thin at just 12.1 mm high. As a result, it doesn’t feel large on the wrist, though the green case has a more presence than far larger watches.

The face of the watch also mimics the radio, albeit without the knobs. The square window on the right shows the time, which is indicated by hour and minutes hands – the first time Hautlence is employing conventional hands in a watch.

Both hands are lacquered in red and sit on a gold-plated brass dial that’s stamped with the Hautlence logo, which is actually a Möbius strip.

Mechanical inside

A titanium grille form the “speaker” on the left, which is actually a window that reveals the flying tourbillon below. The tourbillon is barely visible even up close due to the grille, but it is essentially identical to that found in the Hautlence Linear since both are powered by variants of the same movement.

The tourbillon is identical to that found in the Moser calibre. It’s a flying tourbillon with a wide “V” cage that contains a screwed balance and more notably, a pair of hairsprings. The double hairsprings are made by Precision Engineering, the hairspring and components supplier that’s also owned by the Meylan family.

The twin hairsprings are essentially mirror images of each other since they are each secured in an inverse position relative to the other. Taken together, they expand and contract almost concentrically, improving chronometry and isochronism.

A near-identical tourbilllon found in a Moser Endeavour

The grille also incorporates a party trick: Super-Luminova is painted in between the slats of the grille in a “radio wave” pattern of concentric rings that glow in the dark, matching the luminous numerals on the time indication. The hands are not luminous, but this is definitely not a watch designed for optimal time-telling.

The Retrovision ’47 in the dark. Image – Hautlence

Visible through the display back is the D20, a movement based on Moser’s HMC 804 that’s found in the Endeavour Tourbillon amongst others. The D20 has been modified for the off-centre time display, but is otherwise identical in technical terms to the HMC 804. It’s automatic with a full rotor and a 72-hour power reserve.

The case back takes after the back of the 5A5 radio, with recesses on either side

The movement decoration is clean but still detailed. Though it’s mostly done by machine, the finishing includes hand-applied touches as well as extra like the screwed gold chaton for the barrel pivot.

The movement is finished conventionally and compared to the case, it is plain. It could have been dressed up more to match the quirky, retro case design, though that would probably increase the cost substantially.

Though the tourbillon is concealed on the front, its lower bridge is visible on the back. The bridge retains the familiar wide “V” form found in Moser tourbillons, and at its centre sits a bearing with ceramic balls. 

The visual appeal of the back, however, is hampered by the lengthy text printed on the underside of the crystal. There are six lines of unnecessary text detailing the model reference and movement specs, plus two more lines on the crown wheel of the movement.

The text is inspired by the reverse of the 5A5 radio that includes operating instructions and safety warnings. While the idea makes sense, the execution doesn’t quite work. Not only does the text get in the way of the view, but typography doesn’t quite look in a period correct. This is arguably the only design misstep in the watch, but fortunately it’s on the back.

Key Facts and Price

Hautlence Retrovision ’47
Ref. ED20-SP00

Diameter: 39.2 mm by 44.4 mm
Height: 12.1 mm
Material: Titanium with hand-painted shell
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: 100 m

Movement: D20
Functions: Hours, minutes, and flying tourbillon
Winding: Automatic
Frequency: 21,600 beats per hour (3 Hz)
Power reserve: 72 hours

Strap: Red calfskin with folding clasp

Limited edition: 10 pieces
Availability: At Hautlence retailers retailers
Price: CHF60,000

For more, visit Hautlence.com.