Employing traditional Breguet style but with a twist, the Breguet Classique 5177 and Classique 7787 are variants of existing models but gain a high-contrast makeover with a black grand feu enamel dial and platinum case – a uncommon and striking combination for a largely conservative brand.

Initial thoughts

Though white enamel is the default, Breguet has been adding colours to its enamel offerings in recent years, including blue enamel for the Tourbillon Extra-Plat 5367. In fact, the Classique 5177 was already available with a blue enamel dial for several years. However, the 5177 and 7787 are amongst the most striking thanks to their stark palette.

While neither are actually new models, both are good looking watches that exemplify the Breguet style while being a little different. All the stylistic elements are traditional Breguet, but the monochromatic colours give the duo a stark, modern feel.

The 5177 is almost a perfect dress watch, but it has a date at three that gets in the way. That said, the date is less prominent on the black dial than it is on the white version.

More appealing (and also more expensive), the 7787 brings to mind vintage Breguet pocket watches with its oversized power reserve display, while the moon phase adds texture and colour to the dial.

Black and silver

Both the 5177 and 7787 share the same livery of a black enamel dial and platinum case.

Platinum is relatively uncommon in the Breguet catalogue, and here it’s used for both the case and crown. The case is in typical Breguet style, with narrow lugs and a fluted case band.

The dials are both black grand feu enamel while the markings are in silver-powder print that is granular up close. The numerals are Breguet-style naturally, while the star minute track is modelled on the dials of 19th century Breguet pocket watches.

The 5177 is ideally sized for a dress watch at 38 mm wide and 8.8 mm high. Inside is the cal. 777 Q, an automatic calibre with a 55-hour power reserve, along with a silicon escapement and hairspring.

The cal. 777 Q in the 5177

The 7787, on the other hand, features twin simple complications. While the power reserve is off centre and large, a conventional moon phase sits at 12 o’clock. The moon display is made up of a blue-lacquered disc inlaid with a solid-gold moon medallion that’s been hammered to mimic the cratered surface of the Moon.

The 7787 is a little larger at 39 mm wide and 10.3 mm tall, but still elegant. It’s powered by the cal. 591 DRL, an automatic with a 38-hour power reserve. The cal. 591 DRL also has both its hairspring and escapement in silicon.

Key facts and price

Breguet Classique 5177
Ref. 5177PT/2N/9V6.01

Diameter: 38 mm
Height: 8.8 mm
Material: Platinum
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: 30 m

Movement: Cal. 777 Q
Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds, and date
Winding: Automatic
Frequency: 28,800 beats per hour (4 Hz)
Power reserve: 55 hours

Strap: Black alligator leather strap with a platinum pin buckle

Limited edition: No
Availability: Now at Breguet boutiques and retailers
Price: US$39,800

Breguet Classique 7787
Ref. 7787PT/2N/9VU

Diameter: 39 mm
Height: 10.3 mm
Material: Platinum
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: 30 m

Movement: Cal. 591 DRL
Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds, moon phase, and power reserve indicator
Winding: Automatic
Frequency: 28,800 beats per hour (4 Hz)
Power reserve: 38 hours

Strap: Black alligator leather strap with a platinum triple-blade folding clasp

Limited edition: No
Availability: Now at Breguet boutiques and retailers
Price: US$47,400

For more, visit breguet.com.