Employing traditional Breguet style but with a twist, the Breguet Classique 5177 and Classique 7787 are variants of existing models but gain a high-contrast makeover with a black grand feu enamel dial and platinum case – a uncommon and striking combination for a largely conservative brand.

Initial thoughts

Though white enamel is the default, Breguet has been adding colours to its enamel offerings in recent years, including blue enamel for the Tourbillon Extra-Plat 5367. In fact, the Classique 5177 was already available with a blue enamel dial for several years. However, the 5177 and 7787 are amongst the most striking thanks to their stark palette.

While neither are actually new models, both are good looking watches that exemplify the Breguet style while being a little different. All the stylistic elements are traditional Breguet, but the monochromatic colours give the duo a stark, modern feel.

The 5177 is almost a perfect dress watch, but it has a date at three that gets in the way. That said, the date is less prominent on the black dial than it is on the white version.

More appealing (and also more expensive), the 7787 brings to mind vintage Breguet pocket watches with its oversized power reserve display, while the moon phase adds texture and colour to the dial.

Black and silver

Both the 5177 and 7787 share the same livery of a black enamel dial and platinum case.

Platinum is relatively uncommon in the Breguet catalogue, and here it’s used for both the case and crown. The case is in typical Breguet style, with narrow lugs and a fluted case band.

The dials are both black grand feu enamel while the markings are in silver-powder print that is granular up close. The numerals are Breguet-style naturally, while the star minute track is modelled on the dials of 19th century Breguet pocket watches.

The 5177 is ideally sized for a dress watch at 38 mm wide and 8.8 mm high. Inside is the cal. 777 Q, an automatic calibre with a 55-hour power reserve, along with a silicon escapement and hairspring.

The cal. 777 Q in the 5177

The 7787, on the other hand, features twin simple complications. While the power reserve is off centre and large, a conventional moon phase sits at 12 o’clock. The moon display is made up of a blue-lacquered disc inlaid with a solid-gold moon medallion that’s been hammered to mimic the cratered surface of the Moon.

The 7787 is a little larger at 39 mm wide and 10.3 mm tall, but still elegant. It’s powered by the cal. 591 DRL, an automatic with a 38-hour power reserve. The cal. 591 DRL also has both its hairspring and escapement in silicon.

Key facts and price

Breguet Classique 5177
Ref. 5177PT/2N/9V6.01

Diameter: 38 mm
Height: 8.8 mm
Material: Platinum
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: 30 m

Movement: Cal. 777 Q
Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds, and date
Winding: Automatic
Frequency: 28,800 beats per hour (4 Hz)
Power reserve: 55 hours

Strap: Black alligator leather strap with a platinum pin buckle

Limited edition: No
Availability: Now at Breguet boutiques and retailers
Price: US$39,800

Breguet Classique 7787
Ref. 7787PT/2N/9VU

Diameter: 39 mm
Height: 10.3 mm
Material: Platinum
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: 30 m

Movement: Cal. 591 DRL
Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds, moon phase, and power reserve indicator
Winding: Automatic
Frequency: 28,800 beats per hour (4 Hz)
Power reserve: 38 hours

Strap: Black alligator leather strap with a platinum triple-blade folding clasp

Limited edition: No
Availability: Now at Breguet boutiques and retailers
Price: US$47,400

For more, visit breguet.com.

Panerai raised some eyebrows when it installed the newly developed perpetual calendar movement in the beefy Luminor. Now the brand brings the complication to its more elegant, but still oversized, wristwatch with the Radiomir Perpetual Calendar GMT Goldtech PAM01453.

Initial thoughts

The Radiomir collection has always been Panerai’s most elegant offering, with some older models even being dress watches, albeit in Panerai style. The slimmer cushion-shaped case, wire lugs, and onion crown evoke the early wristwatches. Compared to the bulkier Luminor, the Radiomir is more adaptable in terms of design and complications, and consequently sometimes departs from the brand’s signature military look.

A complication such as a perpetual calendar tends to fit better in more classical designs. For that reason, the perpetual calendar didn’t feel at home in the Luminor format.

Bringing the perpetual calendar to the Radiomir seems like the sensible thing to do. The PAM01453 is handsome, especially with a case in Goldtech, Panerai’s proprietary rose gold alloy of platinum and copper that the brand claims to have superior durability. 

Though more elegant, the PAM01453 is still a rather large watch in typical Panerai style and measures 45mm across. The slim lugs and the leather strap should increase wearability to some extent, but the piece remains imposing.

The P.4100

The PAM01453 celebrates in part the first Panerai watch prototype that was developed in 1935, a timepiece that was christened Radiomir for the luminous radium on the dial. While the PAM01453 is not an anniversary piece per se, the styling subtly suggests a celebratory occasion.

The familiar Panerai dial dominates the aesthetic, but instead of the conventional black, the dial is in a silver-hued sunburst finish that’s better suited to the complication. The big numerals are cut-out, revealing a luminous layer underneath in the classic Panerai “sandwich” construction. A nice touch is the highly polished minute hand cannon pinion, which carries the hands.

The movement inside the PAM01453 is the P.4100, among the latest to be developed by the brand. Over the years Panerai has come to manufacture some interesting and well-made movements, with signature features like long power reserves and robust, industrial constructions.

The P.4100 is a hand-wound, 35 mm-diameter movement which features a perpetual calendar and a GMT indication. The movement can be set exclusively through the crown, leaving no need for case pushers.

The dial shows the day and date, while the month and year are displayed on the case back side, along with a circular power reserve. The movement runs for three days and its free-sprung balance beats at 4 Hz. 

Interestingly the watch shows both the leap year cycle and the current year in a four-digit format. This, along with the crown-only adjustment reminds of IWC’s famous Kurt Klaus perpetual calendar module. The technology seems to have been shared between Richemont brands, since similar modules can be found in some Jaeger-LeCoultre perpetual calendars. 

What makes the P.4100 seemingly more advanced is the fact that there is information displayed on the case back, implying the construction is not purely modular, but rather integrated. Along with the two series linked barrels, the micro-rotor winding system and GMT complication, it all adds up to an impressively engineered movement.

The finish on the P.4100 is neatly done in classic Panerai style: brushed three-quarter plate bridge, broken by a sunken and engraved micro rotor. The screw heads are polished and the bevels sharply cut — undoubtedly done by machine. The industrial finish works well with the instrument-like indicators and the robust-looking architecture of the caliber.

Key facts and price

Panerai Radiomir Perpetual Calendar GMT Goldtech
Ref. PAM01453

Diameter: 45 mm
Height: Unavailable
Material: Goldtech
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: 100 m

Movement: P.4100
Functions: Hours, minutes, GMT, perpetual calendar
Winding: Micro rotor automatic
Frequency: 28,800 beats per hour (8 Hz)
Power reserve: 72 hours

Strap: Brown alligator leather with Goldtech clasp

Limited edition: No
Availability: Only at Panerai boutiques
Price: US$46,200

For more, visit panerai.com.