A new launch that will be shown to retailers in March and the press in May, with Breguet being out of the Baselworld trade fair, the Classique 5177 is quintessential Breguet, with a twist in the form of a vitreous enamel dial in dark blue.

In its original form the Classique 5177 is a solid Breguet dress watch with silver guilloche dial, albeit one with centre seconds and a date. With the blue fired enamel dial it is elevated to another level, being both distinctly Breguet and novel at the same time. The date, unfortunately, does get in the way of its pure classicism, especially since it somewhat confusingly sits right next to the “3” hour marker.

The look, however, is not new, having been used in a 10-piece limited edition to mark the reopening of Breguet’s Tokyo boutique in 2017. That was truly sublime, being the Classique 5175 model without a date window, though owners of the Ginza edition might be disappointed at the repeat of the blue enamel dial.

Date quibbles aside, the new Classique is a beautiful watch. The dial is dark blue grand feu enamel – fired in an oven at 800 degrees Celsius – with markings in powdered silver, as are the numerals on the date wheel. All three hands are rhodium-plated steel.

The italicised “Breguet” numerals and star minute track are inspired by antique Breguet pocket watches, as is the Breguet “secret signature” in blue enamel paint just above six o’clock.

The case is 18k white gold and 38mm in diameter, featuring the fluted case band that’s a Breguet signature. Inside is the cal. 777Q, an automatic movement with a 55-hour power reserve. Its hairspring, escape wheel and pallet fork are all made of silicon, while the balance is free-sprung with four regulating weights.

The cal. 777Q was created by movement maker Lemania, then Breguet’s sister company, shortly after the Swatch Group acquired Breguet and its associates in 1999. Lemania has since been integrated into Breguet, making this an in-house movement.

Price and availability

The price of the Breguet Classique 5177 in blue enamel (ref. 5177BB/2Y/9V6) has yet to be announced, but should be in the region of US$22,000 given the prices of comparable watches in the line-up.