An ambitious evolution of its signature square-cased chronograph, the Monaco Split-Seconds was first revealed as a unique piece for Only Watch. Although the regular production version was launched earlier this year, the one-off example made for Only Watch remains unique for the finishing on the case and movement.

Initial thoughts

Powered by a sophisticated Vaucher calibre, the Monaco rattrapante is mostly made of titanium – the alloy is used for the case and movement – and a deft evolution of the Monaco case. On the wrist, the watch feels good as it is noticeably lightweight despite being quite large.

The case design is evidently derived from the original but smartly reworked to give it a more pronounced, stylised form. Details like the facetted sapphire crystals and oversized pushers complement the styling.

Overall, the aesthetic is the hyper-mechanical look of the same school as Richard Mille and Hublot, but here executed to a high level thanks to the Vaucher calibre that’s hand finished.

The only element of the design I would do away with is the “X” bridge on the dial, which feels like an affectation that doesn’t really do much for the design. But overall the aesthetic is cohesive and appealing.

Importantly, the watch acquits itself well up close. The finishing on the titanium bridges and plates of the movement is particularly impressively, given the difficulty of achieving a mirror polish on the alloy.

And because the Vaucher calibre is a high-end construction, the movement is fundamentally high-spec.

Although the regular production version of the Monaco split-seconds costs far beyond TAG Heuer’s typical price range, the intrinsic qualities of the watch arguably justify the price. The same applies to the Only Watch example.

The ultimate Monaco

On its face, the Monaco split-seconds appears to be a slightly larger and drastically more modern take on the original. Most of the design elements of the original are there, but it’s bigger and bolder.

But from the side the case is surprisingly streamlined, reflecting the clever redesign of the case that enhances its profile while retaining the distinctive look.

The case design gives it a surprisingly slim-looking profile, although it is a thick watch at over 15 mm high.

Unique to the Only Watch edition is the “texturised titanium” case. Also known as crystallised titanium, the material is essentially titanium that’s been subject to heat and pressure, resulting in a crystalline structure on its surface that results in a unique patterned finish as well as increased hardness.

The use of titanium extends into the watch. The bridges and base plate are all titanium, which is rarely used in movements due to the difficulty of decorating the material due to its hardness and propensity to oxidise.

In addition to the conventional mirror polished bevelling known as anglage, the titanium bridges are finished with a chequerboard graté that is applied by hand – essentially fine, parallel scratches to create a square, then repeated across the entire bridge.

The hand finishing is also visible on the front, since there is no dial. The “X” on the dial is actually made up of two titanium bridges that are linearly brushed and bevelled along their edges.

Besides aesthetics, the movement is also notable for its high-performance specifications. It’s a split-seconds chronograph with automatic winding, a high-frequency balance running at 5 Hz, as well as a longish power reserve of 65 hours.

Key facts and price

TAG Heuer Monaco Split-Seconds Chronograph for Only Watch
Ref. CBW2180.FC8321

Diameter: 41 mm
Height: 15.2 mm
Material: Crystallised titanium
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: 100 m

Movement: TH81-00
Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds, chronograph and rattrapante
Winding: Automatic
Frequency: 36,000 beats per hour (5 Hz)
Power reserve: 65 hours

Strap: Calf leather with folding clasp

Limited edition: Piece unique
Availability: To be sold at Only Watch on May 10, 2024
Estimate: CHF150,000-300,000

For more information, visit Christies.com.