Last year, Rolex made waves with its new dress watch collection, the Perpetual 1908. Initially comprising four references in yellow and white gold with silver and black dials, the 1908 now gains a new addition: the Perpetual 1908 (ref. 52506) in platinum.

Continuing with the Rolex tradition of a dial colour unique to platinum models, the new 1908 features an ice blue dial finished with rice-grain guilloché that is traditionally applied with a rose engine.

Initial thoughts

The release of the 1908 was unexpected and marked a departure from the brand’s focus on sports watches. The models launched last year, however, were conservatively styled. The introduction of a guilloché dial, a first for the range, livens up the aesthetics of the 1908 while still retaining the overall design.

The traditional engine-turning lends a three-dimensional effect to the dial, enhancing its aesthetic appeal. Additionally, it adds an artisanal touch to the model.

The platinum ref. 52506 is priced at US$30,900, a sizeable increase over its yellow and white gold counterparts, but comparable to the pricing for other Rolex models, particularly with the addition of the guilloche dial.

The Perpetual 1908 introduced last year in white gold (left) and yellow gold (right)

“Rice-grain” guilloché

The latest release showcases a striking ice blue dial adorned with an intricate guilloché “rice-grain” motif, achieved through the engraving technique of guillochage, whereby an engraver employs an engine-turning machine to carve out a distinctive pattern onto the dial blank.

This motif stands out for its three-dimensional, recurring geometric waves that span the dial’s surface. Encircling the minute track is a filet sauté adorned with a crimped pattern, also executed through guilloché. 

Consistent with its present offerings, the remainder of the dial maintains a familiar layout, including a sub-seconds dial positioned at six, applied numerals at three, nine, and twelve, and faceted markers,” all crafted from 18k white gold. The inscription “Superlative Chronometer” is also retained above the sub-seconds dial.

The ref. 52506 upholds the slender dimensions of Perpetual 1908 models, measuring 39 mm in diameter and 9.5 mm thick. Its slim profile is enabled by the in-house cal. 7140, featuring a bidirectional winding system and two proprietary Rolex technologies: the Chronergy escapement and the Syloxi silicon hairspring. The well-finished movement can be seen through the case back, its elegant architecture marking a departure from the brand’s usual workhorse movements. 

Key facts and price

Rolex Perpetual 1908 
Ref. 52506

Diameter: 39 mm
Height: 9.5 mm
Material: Platinum
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: 50 m

Movement: Cal. 7140
Features: Hours, minutes and sub-seconds
Frequency: 28,800 beats per hour (4 Hz)
Winding: Automatic
Power reserve: 66 hours

Strap: Alligator with folding clasp

Limited edition: No
Availability: Available at Rolex authorised dealers
Price: US$30,900

For more, visit Rolex.com.