One of the leading names in contemporary Russian independent watchmaking alongside Konstantin Chaykin is Anton Suhanov, an ACHI candidate mostly known for his triple-axis table tourbillon clocks. He now applies his inventive mind to the calendar wristwatch to create the Chronotope, a timepiece with simple functions executed in a clever and sophisticated manner.

Initial thoughts

Russian watchmaking is more obscure compared to Swiss or German, but the country has a rich history of watch and jewellery artisans, most famously Faberge. Modern Russian haute horologerie harks back to that history, with Konstantin Chaykin and more recently Anton Suhanov being prime movers.

The Chronotope is a day-date watch with an unusual dial design. A day-date complication is not difficult generally regarded as uninteresting because of its basic nature, but the unexpectedly original execution of the Chronotope makes it appealing.

Displayed on a wide arc almost 360 degrees wide, the day of the week is indicated with a retrograde hand labelled “today”, which flies back to Monday at the end of the week. It is controlled by an exposed snail cam at six that forms an integral part of the aesthetic.

The dial looks modern and almost industrial, with an interesting combination of muted greys with spots of colour, primarily in the form of ruby components – a clever way of utilising functional rubies as decorative elements. The industrial feel is underlined by the simple, but smartly detailed case.

The timepiece becomes even more appealing when considering the movement. The calibre Su200.10 could be mistaken for an in-house movement at first, but it is actually based on a ETA 2824 so profoundly reworked it is practically unrecognisable. In fact, the degree of work done on the movement arguably makes the Su200.10 more “in-house” than many other in-house movements by independent watchmakers.

Exotic compared to most mainstream independents, the Chronotope is an interesting creation demonstrates both originality and innovation. The retail price of US$34,200 does on its face feel steep considering the simple functions, but it is not perhaps all that bad considering the unique nature of the watch.

Design choices

The retrograde date module is integrated into the dial, turning it into a key part of the design. The snail cam and ruby follower are placed front and centre to be admired, and both are appropriately finished to a high level. The snail cam evokes a fossilised Nautilus shell, giving the dial an intriguing look.

Both parts, however, are entirely functional. The snail cam is integral to the retrograde display. This particular execution features ruby pallets inserted on the cam’s surface at precise intervals, so that the follower steps over a ruby pallet instead of a steel tooth when the day switches, resulting in less wear and tear over time.

Beyond the snail cam, there are more ruby pallets used for pure aesthetics on the dial. Each open worked hand features a ruby pallet tip and the seconds hand is even fitted with a ruby counterweight. The bright blued seconds hand looks especially good in conjunction with the purple hue of the rubies.

The hands are brushed and complement the satin-textured dial nicely. Overall the design is clean and unpretentious, but very appealing.

The retrograde day is set with a pusher located at six o’clock that’s topped with a ruby cabochon. The pusher’s small size leaves it looking out of proportion with the case, which also applied to the small, flat crown that seems hard to grip. Both of these make for a peculiar case silhouette.

Surprising movement

The calibre Su200.10 is rooted in the ETA 2824-2, a basic but reliable automatic that shows the time and date.

Mr Suhanov heavily reworked key aspects of the base movement, leaving it almost unrecognisable. The 38 hour power reserve and 4 Hz beat rate were retained, while most of the architecture was tweaked.

Most prominently, the original automatic winding system was replaced entirely with a novel peripheral rotor mechanism developed and constructed by Mr Suhanov. There is also a discreet power reserve indicator cleverly built into the peripheral winding module – a useful and innovative addition.

The thickness of the base movement also allowed for a proprietary regulation system to be fitted over the balance, which includes an interesting micrometer screw for fine tuning the rate.

As a result, the finished calibre looks nothing like the ubiquitous ETA 2824-2. The revamped construction, the ring-like rotor and intricate power reserve display all make for an striking composition.

The finishing is good and likely executed by hand, with classic Geneva stripes and anglage on the bridges. The blued screws and jewel settings make for a change in color, mimicking the palette on the dial.

Key facts and price

Anton Suhanov Chronotope

Diameter: 42 mm
Height: 12.3 mm
Material: Stainless steel
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: 30 m

Movement: Su200.20
Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds, date, retrograde day of week, and power reserve
Winding: Automatic
Frequency: 28,800 beats per hour (4 Hz)
Power reserve: 38 hours

Strap: Calfskin with steel pin buckle

Limited edition: 33 pieces
Availability: Direct from Anton Suhanov
Price: US$34,200 before taxes

For more information, visit Anton-suhanov.com.