Amongst the latest Les Cabinotiers collection from Vacheron Constantin, titled Récits de Voyages, is a group of complicated watches which stand out. All feature a tourbillon, but decorated and elaborated upon in different ways for striking diverse results.

The collection includes a pair of Les Cabinotiers Minute Repeater Tourbillons, “Tribute to Arabesque” ref. 6650C and “Tribute to Art Deco” ref. 6520C. Alongside these we have two tourbillons in contrasting styles, the Armillary Tourbillon “Tribute to Art Deco Style” ref. 9860C and Malte Tourbillon “Tribute to Haussmannian Style” ref. 30135. 

Initial thoughts 

All four watches exemplify what Les Cabinotiers is about – one-off watches equipped with the brand’s highest level calibres and decorated by the best artisans. In doing so these watches wonderfully capture aspects of the company’s history from around the world, the defining theme of Récits de Voyages, which translates as “travel stories”.

Given the specialty of these watches, they will not be for everyone. With strong, unique designs, these timepieces are not looking to appeal to the mass market, rather they attest to the ability of the craftspeople at Vacheron Constantin. 

A personal favourite from this line-up has to be the “Tribute to Art Deco” with its deep-blue wood marquetry dial pairing perfectly with the hand-engraved, pink gold case. While the case is undeniably large, that is unavoidable due to the venerable calibre fitted inside. 

While this collection is fantastic, and could easily be considered some of the very best to come from Les Cabinotiers, it would have been more exciting to see a new calibre among it.

For some time now, Vacheron Constantin has relied on existing movements in new guises, perfectly decorated and elaborately refined, but still the same mechanics. It would have been great to see further innovation, beyond of the aesthetics, brilliant as they are.

Highly complex and artistic

Marked out as one of the most complex offerings from Récits de Voyages, these four watches offer both high horology and the best of metier d’art. Therefore it is worth starting with the two most complicated of the lot, the tourbillon minute repeaters. Both of are powered by the cal. 2755 TMR introduced back in 2017 in the far more pared-back Traditionnelle Minute Repeater Tourbillon. This movement is, of course, fully viewable through the sapphire case back. 

The “Tribute to Arabesque” plays with contrasts through the use of a matte black dial back, with a line-engraved arabesque and floral pattern above in white gold. Directly inspired by the mashrabiya, decorative coverings found across the Islamic world, the intricate engraving work takes a full month to complete. The dial is missing all other markers, allowing the design to flow uninterrupted across the entire watch. Encased in similarly engraved white gold, it measures 44 mm across and 13.5 mm thick. 

Next to this we have the “Tribute to Art Deco Style”, a far warmer final product, it pulls its inspiration from the highly decorative architecture that sprang out of New York in the early 1900s. Its blue wood-marquetry dial, constructed over two levels, is laid out in a geometric pattern reminiscent of many Art Deco interiors. Accompanying the elaborate dial and case decoration, the markers are made from 11 faced diamonds which decrease in size as they reach 12 o’clock. 

The Malte Tourbillon is essentially a reworking of a watch that has been in the Vacheron Constantin catalogue since 2014. Drawing its inspiration from Parisian architecture and urban planning that transformed the French capital in the 19th century thanks to Baron Haussmann.

The ultra-thin, tonneau shamed cal. 2790 SQ is the star of the show here, with its pink gold bridges all meticulously hand engraved, holding the Maltese cross tourbillon, power reserve and date function. The flank of the case has a lion’s head in bas-relief engraved into it, showing fantastic detail for such miniature work. 

A final tribute to the Art Deco style of 1920s America, the Armillary Tourbillon has a bold, imposing presence. Featuring the calibre 1990 with a bi-retrograde minutes and hours hands, we last saw this configuration in another unique piece that was produced in collaboration with Rolls-Royce and mounted in one of its coach-built cars.

The livery here has changed to a gold and black throughout, allowing the Roman numeral markers and certain movement components to stand out. The details here are applied using a mix of hand engraving and guilloché on both the front and back, while the black of the dial has been applied via DLC. 

The large twin axes tourbillon is placed on full display, with a dome of sapphire placed above it, the spherical balance spring pairs well with the overall ostentatious design elements found throughout this piece. The two interlocking tourbillon cages both complete a full rotation every 60 seconds, along with the instantaneous bi-retrograde hands, this places a large amount of demand on the movement, so it is encouraging to see such a high power reserve of 58 hours.

Key facts and price

Vacheron Constantin Les Cabinotiers Minute Repeater Tourbillon “Tribute to Arabesque”
Ref. 6650C/000G-084C

Diameter: 44 mm
Height: 13.50 mm
Material: 18k white gold
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: Not available

Movement: Cal. 2755 TMR
Functions: Hours, minutes, tourbillon, small seconds and minute repeater 
Winding: Manual-winding
Frequency: 18,000 beats per hour (2.5 Hz)
Power reserve: 58 hours

Strap: Alligator strap with folding clasp

Limited edition: Unique piece
Availability: Available at Vacheron Constantin boutiques only 
Price: Price on request

Vacheron Constantin Les Cabinotiers Minute Repeater Tourbillon “Tribute to Art Deco Style”
Ref. 6520C/000R-085C

Diameter: 44 mm
Height: 13.50 mm
Material: 18k pink gold
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: Not available

Movement: Cal. 2755 TMR
Functions: Hours, minutes, tourbillon, small seconds and minute repeater 
Winding: Manual-winding
Frequency: 18,000 beats per hour (2.5 Hz)
Power reserve: 58 hours

Strap: Alligator strap with folding clasp

Limited edition: Unique piece
Availability: Available at Vacheron Constantin boutiques only 
Price: Price on request

Vacheron Constantin Les Cabinotiers Armillary Tourbillon “Tribute to Art Deco Style”
Ref. 9860C/000J-090C

Diameter: 45 mm
Height: 20.10 mm
Material: 18k yellow gold
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: Not available

Movement: Cal. 1990
Functions: Retrograde hours and minutes, small seconds and armillary tourbillon
Winding: Manual-winding
Frequency: 18,000 beats per hour (2.5 Hz)
Power reserve: 58 hours

Strap: Alligator strap with folding clasp

Limited edition: Unique piece
Availability: Available at Vacheron Constantin boutiques only 
Price: Price on request

Vacheron Constantin Les Cabinotiers Malte Tourbillon “Tribute to Haussmannian Style”
Ref. 30135/000R-089C

Diameter: 41.5 by 38 mm
Height: 12.7 mm
Material: 18k yellow gold
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: Not available

Movement: Cal. 2790 SQ
Functions: Hours, minutes, date, small seconds and tourbillon
Winding: Manual-winding
Frequency: 18,000 beats per hour (2.5 Hz)
Power reserve: 45 hours

Strap: Alligator strap with folding clasp

Limited edition: Unique piece
Availability: Available at Vacheron Constantin boutiques only 
Price: Price on request

For more, visit vacheron-constantin.com.

Mostly made up of no-frills, vintage-inspired chronographs, Breitling’s Top Time collection now gets one of the brand’s most complicated offerings. The Breitling Top Time B21 Classic Cars Chronograph Tourbillon is inspired by the livery of 1960s American sports cars like the Ford Mustang, while its mechanics are courtesy of movement specialist La Joux-Perret, which constructed the B21 movement that combines a tourbillon and chronograph with column wheel.

Initial thoughts

Breitling’s newest launch goes far beyond the brand’s typical price range, but it is a chronograph with tourbillon, making it relative affordable given the complications. In fact, the combination of a chronograph with tourbillon is an uncommon pairing regardless of price.

The Top Time B21 Chevrolet Corvette

The watch retains the usual retro-inspired Top Time styling, which is attractive. The symmetry of the dial adds to its appeal, as do details like the mirrored register and tourbillon aperture, both shaped like a squircle.

While the green and blue dials have a conventional metal finish, the dial on the Chevrolet Corvette edition is burl wood veneer, a reference to the wood steering wheel and dash of the 1960s Corvette. The wood dial and black ceramic case are an unusual combination, but make the Corvette version the most interesting of the trio.

The downside of the watch is its size. The case is either 43 mm or 44 mm (depending on the material), which is acceptable, but 15.4 mm thick – that’s taller than a Lange Double Split. The thickness is inevitable due to the movement, but it gives the watch chunky and bulky proportions.

All three versions retail for US$47,000, a substantial number but accessible as such complications go.

Inspired by American sports cars

Like the rest of the Top Time line, the Chronograph Tourbillon has a simple but gently retro design. The case is a clean, round style with “pump” pushers, while the dial has a 60-minute counter in a vintage-inspired shape of a squircle (a square with round corners).

The Top Time Chronograph Tourbillon is available in three variants, all equipped with the same B21 movement. Two of them share the same black ceramic case that’s 44 mm in diameter. The first is the Chevrolet Corvette edition with a burl wood dial, and the second the Shelby Cobra with a dark blue dial inspired by the livery of the 1962 car of the same name.

The Top Time B21 Shelby Cobra

And the most striking of the trio is the Ford Mustang edition with a green dial and bronze case, a combination that reflects the colours of the first-generation Ford Mustang according to Breitling.

The bronze case is 43 mm in diameter, slightly smaller than that of the other two versions due to the simpler construction (as ceramic cases require an inner case).

The Top Time B21 Ford Mustang

The Top Time Chronograph Tourbillon is powered by the B21, a La Joux-Perret (LJP) creation that is often found in entry-level chronograph tourbillons.

The calibre reflects the movement maker’s historical speciality: building on the architecture of the ETA Valjoux 7750. But even though this is distantly related to the 7750, it is a LJP creation due to substantial modifications and improvements.

Besides the tourbillon at 12 o’clock, it also sports a column wheel instead of the cam in the stock 7750. The B21, however, does suffer from the familiar weakness of the 7750, thickness. This explains the bulky, 15.4 mm high case.

Key facts and price

Breitling Top Time B21 Classic Cars Chronograph Tourbillon
Ref. NB21251A1L1X1 (Ford Mustang, green)
Ref. SB21251A1C1X1 (Shelby Cobra, blue)
Ref. SB21252A1Q1X1 (Chevrolet Corvette, wood)

Diameter: 43 mm (Ford Mustang), 44 mm (Shelby Cobra and Chevrolet Corvette)
Height: 15.4 mm
Material: Bronze (Ford Mustang), or black ceramic (Shelby Cobra and Chevrolet Corvette)
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: 100 m

Movement: B21
Functions: Hours, minutes, chronograph, and tourbillon
Winding: Automatic
Frequency: 28,800 beats per hour (4 Hz)
Power reserve: 55 hours

Strap: Leather strap with folding buckle

Limited edition: No
Availability: Available at Breitling boutiques, retailers and online
Price: US$47,000

For more information, visit breitling.com.