French microbrand Baltic has sharpened the styling of its signature models with the HMS 003 and Bicompax 003. While maintaining their 1940s-inspired styling and affordable pricing, the new duo feature subtle enhancements to the design, most notably on the dial and a small case diameter.

Initial thoughts 

Baltic found success with its formula of retro style and accessible pricing – most of its watches are in the US$500 to US$1,000 range – with the Micro-Rotor MR01 being a recent bestseller. It is a nice surprise to see the brand’s debut models rebooted to gain a smaller case similar in size to the MR01.

The dials of the 003 series offer a lively aesthetic with textured surfaces and applied indices that create a pleasing contrast. This is an upgrade from from the 002 models, which felt a bit flat due to the printed markings on the dial. And the reduced case size of 36.5 mm give the 003 series distinct, 1940s-inspired proportions that match the dial designs perfectly. However, the new dials are perhaps lacking one thing, an applied logo to match the applied indices.

Of the three colours, the “salmon” versions are predictable and stand out as crowd pleasers that will probably sell out swiftly give the faddish nature of the colour. The blue dial with gold indices, however, is both unusual and attractive.

As is typical for Baltic, the 003 watches are made inexpensively but smartly so they feel a bit nicer than they cost. The new models maintain the brand’s competitive pricing, with the time-only HMS priced at US$404 and the Bicompax chronograph priced at US$606. 

The HMS 003 in silver blue

A more refined design

The newest HMS and Bicompax models draw inspiration from 1940s wristwatches and debut in three distinctive colour variants: silver-blue, salmon, and blue-gilt.

Both models feature dials with a sector-style design and varied surface finishing. The dials are made up of a grained centre disc complemented by a concentric brushed finish on the rest of the dial. Notably, the 003 series now features the model name above six o’clock, replacing the movement type found on the dials of the preceding 002 series.

In the time-only HMS 003, the printed numerals of the 002 have been replaced with a combination of applied baton indices and Arabic numerals at the quarters. The Bicompax 003 chronograph has the same dial design, but with numerals at six and 12, while the three and nine positions occupied by the chronograph registers.

The Bicompax 003 in salmon

The 003 models have undergone a reduction in case size compared to the previous generation. Now measuring 36.5 mm, the case is a significant 1.5 mm smaller than the 38 mm of the 002 series. It is also just 0.5 mm larger than the MR01, which is Baltic’s smallest watch. The reduction in diameter results in proportions that closely mimic vintage watches from the 1940s.

However, the case thickness remains unchanged at 13 mm (10 mm without the domed Hesalite crystal) for both models. The substantial thickness gives both a chunky profile that is mitigated somewhat by the stepped bezel that’s a carryover from the previous generation.

The HMS 003 in blue gilt

Both watches are equipped with movements known for cost efficiency and robustness. Given the no-frills nature of the movements, both models have a solid case back as standard issue, but a display back is available at an additional cost.

The time-only HMS is powered by a Miyota 8315 automatic, while the Bicompax houses a hand-wound Seagull ST1901 that is a clone of the cal. 175 once produced by Venus, a now-defunct Swiss movement maker. Both calibres are made in China, as are the components making up the watches, which are then assembled in France. 

Key facts and price

Baltic HMS 003

Diameter: 36.5 mm
Height: 13 mm
Material: Stainless steel
Crystal: Hesalite
Water resistance: 50 m

Movement: Miyota 8315
Functions: Hour, minutes and stop seconds
Winding: Automatic
Frequency: 21,600 beats per hours (3 Hz)
Power reserve: 60 hours

Strap: Calfskin leather strap with pin buckle or matching bracelet (either beads of rice or straight link)

Limited edition: No
Availability: At Baltic’s online shop and authorised retailers
Price: US$404 (excluding taxes)

Key facts and price

Baltic Bicompax 003

Diameter: 36.5 mm
Height: 13 mm
Material: Stainless steel
Crystal: Hesalite
Water resistance: 50 m

Movement: Seagull ST1901
Functions: Hour, minutes, seconds and chronograph
Winding: Manual
Frequency: 21,600 beats per hours (3 Hz)
Power reserve: 42 hours

Strap: Calfskin leather strap with pin buckle or matching bracelet (either beads of rice or straight link)

Limited edition: No
Availability: At Baltic’s online shop and authorised retailers
Price: US$606 (excluding taxes)

For more, visit Baltic-watches.com.