Two years ago, Louis Vuitton unveiled the Tambour Street Diver, a livelier iteration of its longstanding Tambour dive watch. Now the brand debuts the Tambour Street Diver Chronograph, adding further a stopwatch to the nautical-inspired aesthetic. Together, the two Street Divers now form the entry-level of the brand’s mechanical watch offerings, which progress upwards into seven-figure, minute-repeater-with-automaton territory.

Initial thoughts

The new chronograph is a natural progression from its predecessor, retaining the elements of a traditional dive watch, including a less-common inner rotating bezel, while incorporating Louis Vuitton’s bold and modern styling, including the tall, drum-shaped case. The design is as much “street” as it is “diver”, and very much in keeping with the brand’s aesthetic.

Both the case and dial are executed well, although the two-tone case might not be to everyone’s taste. Enthusiasts, however, will note the ETA movement inside. The movement is reliable and robust, though the US$11,105 price tag deserves a more interesting calibre.

That said, given Louis Vuitton’s well-funded ambitions in watchmaking, it is a certainty that the brand will soon roll out in-house calibres in all price segments of its catalogue.

Nautically inspired

The new chronograph available in two variations: Skyline Blue (blue with metallic sun-ray finish) and Neon Black (matte black), each matched with a case colour in the same colour.

Both have the same two-register layout with partially open-worked hands, accentuated by bold indices.

The most notable feature is the inner rotating bezel to measure elapsed time, which has been part of the Tambour Diver since its introduction over a decade ago. A feature mostly associated with dive watches of the 1950s and 1960s, the inner bezel has since made a comeback with vintage remakes, but looks perfectly at home in the Street Diver.

As is typical for Louis Vuitton, the brand name is found on the dial, case, and rubber strap

The chronograph is housed in a drum-shaped case – tambour means “drum” – that measures 46 mm in diameter and 14 mm high.

The case has been treated with “shot-blasting” where tiny abrasive particles are used to give the case a finely-grained matte finish. It is then then treated with a PVD coating to match the dial.

Visible through the back is an ETA 2894 (essentially an ETA 2892 with a chronograph module on top) that has a power reserve of 42 hours.

As is the norm for most Tambour models, the chronograph is fitted with a rubber strap featuring the brand’s quick-release mechanism that comprises a sliding tab on the back of the strap.

Key facts and price

Louis Vuitton Tambour Street Diver Chronograph
Ref. QBB204 (Neon Black)
Ref. QBB205 (Skyline Blue)

Diameter: 46 mm
Height: 14 mm
Material: Steel with PVD coating
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: 100 m

Movement: ETA 2894
Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds and chronograph
Winding: Automatic
Frequency: 28,800 beats per hour (4 Hz)
Power reserve: 42 hours

Strap: Rubber strap with steel folding clasp

Limited edition: No
Availability: At Louis Vuitton boutiques
Price: US$11,105

For more information, visit Louisvuitton.com.