Unveiled last year as the debut product of Kikuchi Nakagawa, the Murakumo is modelled on the 1930s Patek Philippe Calatrava ref. 96, considered by its founders as the ideal classical men’s wristwatch.

Originally available only with a matte black dial, Kikuchi Nakagawa has now unveiled its inverse – the Murakumo with white dial and black numerals.

Black polishing

Founded by a pair of Japanese watchmakers, Yusuke Kikuchi and Tomonari Nakagawa – with Mr Nakagawa having worked at Citizen as it developed the tourbillon – the brand is all about two things: components supplied by the very best Japanese specialists (save for the dial and movement), and exceptional black polishing of all the external steel parts.

The three-dimensional hands are made by precision machine shop Yuki Precision, while the case and buckle are courtesy of Matsuura Works. The parts are all black polished by hand, creating a remarkably flat, mirror-like surface.

With some Swiss help

The dial on the other hand, comes from Swiss supplier Gilwatch, located in Geneva. Particular attention was paid to the printed numerals, which require several layers of pad printing in order to give them height.

Also from Switzerland is the movement, which is a Vaucher VMF 5401. Though high quality in finish and construction – variants of the same calibre are used by Hermes, Richard Mille and Parmigiani – the movement is relatively pedestrian compared to the rest of the Murakumo. That being said, Kikuchi Nakagawa might introduce its own movement in the future.

Key facts and price

Murakumo White Dial

Case diameter: 36.8mm
Height: 8.5mm
Material: Black polished stainless steel
Water resistance: 30m

Movement: KN001 (VMF 5401)
Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds
Frequency: 21,600bph (3Hz)
Winding: Automatic
Power reserve: 48 hours

Strap: Crocodile with black-polished steel pin buckle

Availability: Direct from Kikuchi Nakagawa, with delivery time of 6-12 months
Price: US$20,000

For more, visit Kikuchi-nakagawa.com.

Update December 2, 2019: Images of the Vaucher VMF 5401 were added.