Ian Fleming’s fictional spy is Commander in the Royal Navy Reserve, a rank equivalent to Lieutenant-Colonel that’s the basis for the latest Omega James Bond limited edition. Based on the Omega Seamaster that Pierce Brosnan wore during his first outing as 007 in Goldeneye, the Seamaster Diver 300M “Commander’s Watch” is clad in the colours of the Union Jack, and it’s notable for being the first James Bond timepiece not tied to any film.

Since the Seamaster first hit the big screen on Brosnan’s wrist in 1995 (though it was later upgraded to the identical looking automatic model), the dive watch has become a trademark of James Bond (and a very profitable franchise for Omega), even after Daniel Craig took over. Although Craig most recently sported the retro Seamaster 300, the blue Seamaster automatic Brosnan wore in his five films as the British spy is arguably the signature James Bond wristwatch. The Seamaster Diver 300M “Commander’s Watch” reproduces the design of the original Bond watch, but in new colours and the latest materials.

The steel case is 41mm with a blue ceramic bezel insert that has markings filled with Liquidmetal (an amorphous metal alloy), while the dial is glossy white ceramic. And typical of most James Bond editions, the seconds hand counterweight forms the “007” logo. Another nod to Bond’s code number is the “7” on the date disc that’s in red, while all the other date numerals are black.

The clear case back reveals the cal. 2507, a variant of the cal. 2500 that’s Omega’s version of the ETA 2892. This version of the movement features a customised rotor that’s decorated with three gold stripes and a loop, the rank insignia of a Royal Navy Commander. And the centre of the rotor is shaped like the a bullet, another Bond motif.

The Seamaster Diver 300M “Commander’s Watch” is packaged in a box modelled on a military medal case that also contains a steel bracelet, a strap changing tool, and a pin shaped like a service ribbon that reproduces the colours of the NATO strap that accompanies the watch.

Brosnan’s Seamaster 300 (on left) and the new Commander’s Watch

While the Commander’s Watch in steel is limited to 7007 pieces, Omega is also producing a seven-piece limited edition with an 18k yellow gold case that’s otherwise identical. In late 2017 Omega will conduct an auction to sell three examples of the Commander’s watch – in steel, 18k yellow gold as well as a unique piece in 18k white gold – with proceeds going to various charities.

Pierce Brosnan as James Bond in Tomorrow Never Dies

The 18k yellow gold edition

Price and availability 

The Seamaster Diver 300M “Commander’s Watch” (ref. 212.32.41.20.04.001) is limited to 7007 pieces, priced at US$5000, €4600, or S$6950. It will be available at Omega boutiques and retailers starting August 2017.

The 18k gold “Commander’s Watch” (ref. 212.62.41.20.04.001) is limited to just seven pieces, priced at US$28,000 or S$42,000.

Addition July 11, 2017: Image of yellow gold version included.

Patek Philippe has made it mandatory for all retailers to sell its watches without the sealed factory packaging that has become a hallmark of the brand’s timepieces. In a letter sent two weeks ago to all retailers worldwide, the Geneva watchmaker asked retailers to “put an end to the sale of ‘sealed’ and ‘ doubled-sealed’ pieces”, with immediate effect.

The letter goes on to elaborate: “… ensure no Patek Philippe timepiece leaves your point of sale before it has been taken out of its brown cardboard box and had its plastic bag cut open. Indeed, these boxes were never meant to be given to your clients. Please hold on to them and destroy them.”

A million dollars inside a plastic bag – a “single-sealed” Patek Philippe Sky Moon Tourbillon ref. 5002P that was offered at Phillips’ Hong Kong watch auction last year

As when Rolex introduced its warranty card with a magnetic strip that has to be swiped to be activated, the purpose of Patek Philippe’s directive is to “prevent grey market activities”.

While Patek Philippe retailers and boutiques were supposed to sell watches without the packaging in the past, that was not strictly enforced. Consequently Patek Philippe watches frequently change hands on the secondary market having never left the sealed factory packaging, sometimes having stayed that way for years. One reason that happens for Patek Philippe watches specifically – many brands ship their watches in sealed boxes of some sort – is the fact that its timepieces are often, but also misguidedly, regarded as sound investments. Equally as often, the watches are seen as portable, liquid assets.

Patek Philippe appears serious on stamping out the practice of selling sealed watches, with the letter noting that it will “follow up regularly on this directive”. The letter ends with the line: “All pieces found in a cardboard box or plastic bag after July 1st, 2017 will be view as a fault.”