Pre-SIHH 2015: Introducing The Roger Dubuis Excalibur Automatic Skeleton – The First Open-Worked, Time-Only Wristwatch (With Specs And Price)

Roger Dubuis’ signature timepiece has long been its skeleton tourbillons with their distinctive star-shaped bridges. Now Roger Dubuis has applied that same look to its time-only automatic in the Excalibur Automatic Skeleton, offering the same aesthetic at a lower price.

One of the key tactics in Roger Dubuis‘ product strategy is to create more accessible products in more manageable sizes. The new Excalibur Automatic Skeleton is exactly that. With a skeleton movement featuring the brand’s signature star-shaped bridge, the Excalibur Automatic Skeleton looks like the brand’s trademark skeleton tourbillon, but costs only half as much. A key timepiece in the Roger Duubis SIHH 2015 line-up which is heavy on skeleton watches, the Excalibur Automatic Skeleton is equipped with the RD820SQ calibre. It possesses the same recognisable look that has made the brand’s skeleton tourbillons its top seller. The bridges are dark grey thanks to a grey rhodium coating, and decorated with perlage that catches the light just right. 

Shaped like a large star, the barrel bridge dominates the movement, with a the micro-rotor visible at 11 o’clock. The winding gears travel from the rotor to the mainspring between one and three o’clock. While on the other side of the dial the gear train runs from the mainspring to the balance wheel at eight o’clock.

Comprised of 167 parts, the movement has a 60 hour power reserve. The Excalibur case is in pink gold with a 42 mm diameter, with the triple lugs and notched bezel characteristic of the model. The Excalibur Automatic Skeleton is priced at 104,000 Singapore dollars, or about US$83,200.

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Photo Report: Vintage Rolex Asylum First Anniversary GTG – A Band Of Brothers

Vintage Rolex Asylum (VRA) is a club for collectors of vintage Rolex watches set up just recently in Jakarta, Indonesia. The VRA first anniversary get-together just happened earlier this week and I was fortunate to take part. Here's a quick report on what transpired.

Enthusiasm for vintage Rolex watches is a phenomenon that is sweeping the world. One hotspot for that is Indonesia, an archipelago with a population of over 250 million people. VRA was established in the capital, Jakarta, almost exactly a year ago and now counts in its ranks nearly 40 members. Its first official gathering took place on 11 December, with its members, and their watches, out in full force. I was there as a guest, and here’s what happened.

Naturally there were many more watches than people, with a predominance of Submariners, with Daytonas and GMT-Masters also popular. Practically every shade of tropical dial brown was present. For the uninitiated, tropical dials refer to black or dark dials that have turned varied shades of brown (anything from tobacco to caramel) over time, likely due to ultraviolet rays from sunlight breaking down the pigments in the dial.

As always with vintage Rolex it’s the details, the subtle nuances, the variations that are barely there, which really matter.

A Submariner with a “spiderweb” dial, where the dial lacquer has cracked, leaving a spiderweb pattern
An eggshell texture on the dial of this Explorer dial 5513 Submariner

One highlight was this extremely rare Milgauss Ref. 6541 with a tropical honeycomb dial and lightning seconds hand.

But beyond the watches what was palpable was the camaraderie – the gentlemen of VRA, bound together by a shared loved for vintage Rolex, are a band of brothers. A sense of community, strengthened by shared knowledge, is evident in the VRA.

But like a teenage romance, such camaraderie is fleeting, possible only when a community is still small, and all its members linked by the same fiery enthusiasm. VRA’s success means it will surely grow, but all those who were there on this night will always remember they were one of the original band of brothers.  And for more Rolex eye candy here are some photos from VRA member Samuel Rotandi.

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