Launched in 2006, Collection Excellence Platine (CEP) means a watch from the standard collection that’s been dosed with platinum to create a limited edition. Vacheron Constantin applies the CEP treatment to a model every one or two years, which means even after 14 years, there’s only been a dozen or so CEP editions.

The Patrimony Moon Phase Retrograde Date Collection Excellence Platine is the latest to join the exclusive club. As is tradition, platinum is employed for nearly every element of the watch: the case, crown, dial, buckle, and the tiny moon phase disc. Even the stitching in the blue alligator strap is made of thread woven from silk and platinum wire.

Initial thoughts

Ironically, although the CEP edition is the most expensive version of the Patrimony Moon Phase Retrograde Date – ordinarily available only with a gold case – it is the most restrained. The new watch has a strongly monochromatic yet harmonious appearance. That, combined with the liberal use of platinum, make it the most contemporary of the variants, while retaining the same traditional and endearing design.

In the typical style of CEP, the watch is simple in style and colour, but has details that make it interesting. Even though almost all the external components of the watch are made of the same material, different surface treatments create texture and depth, giving it visual appeal.

For example, the smooth, sandblasted surface of the dial and the more granular moon phase disc bearing a moon with an irregular surface to evoke lunar craters. The dial is slightly domed and ornamented with applied, white-gold markers for the hours and minutes. All the elements add up to a three-dimensional aesthetic that is more pronounced than on the time-only CEP watches.

The “Pt950” hallmark on the dial indicates it is made of an alloy that’s 95% platinum

The case is 42.5 mm and identical to that found on the standard model. It’s wide but thin, which makes for an elegant profile, though some might find it large for a timepiece that leans towards being a dress watch.

The same holds for the movement, which is the self-winding cal. 2460 R31L with a power reserve of 40 hours. The “R31L” suffix indicates the complications added to the cal. 2460 base movement, namely a retrograde date, and a moon phase display accurate to a day in 122 years, which is the industry norm.

The dial-side view of the 2460 R31L

Key Facts and Price

Vacheron Constantin Patrimony Moon Phase Retrograde Date Collection Excellence Platine
Ref. 4010U/000P-B545

Diameter: 42.5 mm
Height: 9.7 mm
Material: Platinum
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: 30 m

Movement: Caliber 2460 R31L
Functions: Hours, minutes, retrograde date, and moon phase
Winding: Self-winding
Frequency: 28,800 beats per hour (4 Hz)
Power reserve: 40 hours

Strap: Alligator stitched with platinum and silk thread

Limited edition: 50 pieces
Availability: Only at boutiques
Price: 71,500 Swiss francs; or 102,000 Singapore dollars

For more information, visit Vacheron-constantin.com.