Ulysse Nardin’s Entry-Level Freak in Crystalium

Experimenting with a new look.

The latest iteration of Ulysse Nardin’s most affordable Freak is the Freak X Crystalium, a limited edition that blends the disruptive Freak aesthetic with a novel decorative element in the form of a dial in Crystalium.

Though it has an almost organic look, Crystalium is actually the result of crystallised ruthenium deposited via physical vapour deposition (PVD). The advanced, unusual material is decorative, yet harks back to the Freak’s origins as a materials pioneer.

Initial thoughts

The Freak has been a core collection in Ulysse Nardin’s roster since the first model was launched back in 2001. The line has been defined by disruptive and bold technical construction and a pioneering use of silicon.

But lately it feels watered down; the Freak X dials back on the exotic tech to make the iconic design more attainable. And the many iterations of the Freak X don’t help its case.

But paradoxically the new Freak X is a return to one of the core values of the Freak series: materials science. Ulysse Nardin experimented with all sorts of materials over the years with the Freak as a platform, ranging from the DIAMonSIL escapement to silicon movement bridges to mono block oscillators.

The Freak X Crystalium employs new material, but this time it serves an aesthetic function as opposed to a mechanical one. The large rotating disk which serves as the dial’s foundation is covered in an organic-seeming, quartz-like glittering surface that’s the result of years of research.

The appearance of the watch is odd, since it is reminiscent of the frosted gilt surfaces of old English and French pocket watch movements from afar, yet conveys a strong organic feel when observed up close.

While the look is definitely not for everyone, this sort of avant-garde decorating technique is welcomed — especially from a brand with a history of exotic, technical materials. It’s reassuring to see the Le Locle-based brand is still interested in material-related developments, even if it is decorative.

Whatever is Crystalium?

Although both the whimsical name and granular surface suggest this new finish is indeed a sort of crystal, it actually has nothing mineral in it. The base of the dial is in fact a disc of ruthenium, a precious metal belonging to the platinum group.

The ruthenium blank undergoes a slow PVD process spanning several days. The conditions in the PVD chamber and the pace of the process causes quartz crystal-like growths on the ruthenium’s surface, much like ice crystallising on windows during wintertime.

The specialised process also results in each dial being unique, since the deposition cannot be evenly controlled over an extended timeframe. The result is an unruly, textured surface of the ruthenium plate, which is indeed unlike any other traditional finishing techniques we’ve seen recently.

After the quartz crystal-like texture is obtained, Ulysse Nardin subjects the dials to a fine rose-gold PVD treatment, which gives the final product a warm champagne tone. Finally, a hand-applied varnish is added.

The finished Crystalium surface brings to mind brownish zirconia, although the rough texture can also look like a gilded plate, depending on the light and observation distance.

Ulysse Nardin made the good choice of leaving the rest of the dial face as neutral as possible, leaving the Crystalium plate to serve as the main show piece. In typical Freak fashion, the hands are incorporated with the movement to an extent, although the Freak X movement differs in many ways from the original 2001 construction.

An almost monochromatic Freak

Apart from a few rose cold accents on the minute ring, this timepiece’s only source of colour is the Crystalium plate. Ulysse Nardin also thoughtfully employs two rose gold-gilt gears visible on the dial, along with balance weights in the same finish — which pair very well with the Crystalium dial.

The 43 mm DLC-treated titanium case is identical to past Freak X constructions. One big issue with every Freak X edition is the lack of an operable bezel and the intruding addition of a winding crown. The original Freak could only be set via the bezel and wound by cranking the caseback. Here those quirky but charming features are replaced by a basic crown, which gives the Freak X a fairly ordinary silhouette.

By resorting to this standard construction, one will be tempted to assume that Ulysse Nardin also increased the water resistance. Instead the sporty looking timepiece still has a disappointing 50 m water resistance.

Not that people would be necessarily tempted to take a limited edition, materials-centric watch for a swim, but at least 100 m of water resistance is becoming the standard for most modern wristwatches.

A Freak-ish movement

Powering the Crystalium edition is the same caliber UN-230 found in all Freak X models. Apart from the time-telling setup, the movement is a very distant relative of the original Freak calibers and instead shares more similarities with Ulysse Nardin’s workhorse UN-118 caliber. This includes the base construction, the Magic Lever automatic system and the industrial aesthetic.

The UN-230 winds automatically and holds a respectable power reserve of 72 hours on a full wind. This is impressive, considering the torque is stored in a single barrel and is required to power the large flying carrousel.

Stacked from 15 images. Method=B (R=8,S=4)

Also compared to the original Freak concept, which was at its core a tourbillon (we covered this aspect in more detail in Part I of The Freak Saga), the Freak X is a true carrousel. The escapement is powered by the central rose gilt gear, while the one-hour turning platform it sits on is powered by the central black gear. The two mobiles turn at different rates, making this construction a carrousel.

The slow-turning Crystalium disk also carries the hour hand and is powered by an epicyclic gear set. The platform holding the escapement and regulator serves as a minute hand.

The regulating organ is the usual high-tech Ulysse Nardin assortment, fully crafted out of silicon. The escapement is of the a Swiss lever kind, but etched from silicon and heavily skeletonised to save weight. The balance and hairspring are also done in silicon and have an interesting design — one which we covered in more detail in Part III of The Freak Saga. The system beats at 3 Hz, the slower pace undoubtedly contributing to the watch’s three-day power reserve.