One of the largest watch retailers in the world, Watches of Switzerland (WOS) marks its centenary in 2024. It has worked with several brands on limited editions for the occasion, most recently Ulysse Nardin. Based on Ulysse Nardin’s flagship Freak model, the Freak S “Watches of Switzerland Centenary Exclusive” sports a striking purple dial of crystalium, which is actually crystallised ruthenium.

Starting as a single shop in 1924, WOS is now a publicly-listed group with several retail brands in its stable and annual revenue of just over US$2 billion. Its scale means that several brands have signed on to create anniversary editions for the company, including including Cartier, Bulgari, and TAG Heuer. The Freak S, however, is the most complicated of the centenary editions so far.

Initial thoughts

The most impressive Freak in Ulysse Nardin’s current catalogue, the Freak S scores highly in terms of construction, and innovation. Its double inclined balance wheels are a logical evolution of the original concept.

In terms of aesthetics, the WOS edition is the most striking to date. The original iteration with its two-tone, rose gold-and-titanium case was perhaps old-fashioned for such a modern watch. The more recent Freak S Nomad, in contrast, presents a refined, artisanal face with a hand guilloche dial – a contrast of sci-fi watchmaking and traditional decoration.

The WOS edition is uniformly sci-fi. The carousel sits on a textured, crystalline purple plate. It’s an appealing look – the bold, unusual colour is arguably perfect match for the radical styling and construction of the Freak. Moreover, it brings to mind historical Freak models that often employed colours for visual effect, like the Freak Blue Phantom.

Costing about 10% more than the Freak S Nomad, the WOS edition is fairly priced, especially since it’s the only Freak with a crystalium dial so far and a small run of just 10 pieces. However, the value proposition could change if Ulysse Nardin introduces additional variants with the same dial material.

Crystallised ruthenium

The WOS edition is fundamentally identical to the standard Freak S, which means the centrepiece is the large, spaceship-like carousel on the front that carries twin inclined balanced wheels linked by a differential.

The Freak S was conceived as the ultimate iteration of Ulysse Nardin’s landmark creation, with the double inclined balances providing additional chronometric performance, plus the patented Grinder automatic winding enhancing user friendliness.

On the WOS edition, however, the carousel sits on a crystalium plate that’s a vivid, sparkly purple.

Crystalium is actually crystallised ruthenium. Specifically, it is ruthenium that’s been vaporised and then deposited onto the dial plate. The thin deposited ruthenium layer has a crystalline structure, giving it a sparkly finish. Grey in its natural state, the ruthenium layer is then plated via physical vapour deposition, resulting in the striking purple dial.

The technique used to produce the crystalium dial can be varied to create other colours, which means it’s possible we’ll see this dial material return in another shade.

The WOS edition has the same dimensions as the standard Freak S, but in a two-tone titanium. The case middle is coated dark grey, while the bezel and locking tab retain the alloy’s natural grey finish. It’s a clean, low-key combination that complements the purple dial.

The open back reveals the UN-251, a movement that is automatic thanks to the Grinder winding mechanism. Constructed to deliver high winding torque, the Grinder can wind the large mainspring swiftly and effectively. (We explained its specifics in an earlier story on the Freak.)

Automatic winding aside, the Freak S can also be wound manually by turning the case back, as is tradition with the Freak from the very first generation.

Key facts and price

Ulysse Nardin Freak S Watches of Switzerland Centenary
Ref. 2513-500LE-7A-WOS/3A

Diameter: 45 mm
Height: 16.65 mm
Material: Titanium
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: 30 m

Movement: UN-251
Functions: Hours and minutes
Winding: Automatic
Frequency: 18,000 vibrations per hour (2.5 Hz)
Power reserve: 72 hours

Strap: Rubber strap with titanium folding clasp

Limited edition: 10 pieces
Availability: Only at Watches of Switzerland
Price: US$163,500 excluding taxes

For more, visit Ulysse-nardin.com and Watchesofswitzerland.com.

This was brought to you in partnership with Ulysse Nardin.