To mark the 100th anniversary of the biggest retailer in the United Kingdom, Cartier is introducing the Tank Louis Cartier Watches of Switzerland 100th Anniversary. Clad entirely in gold, the 100-piece limited edition features the classic Tank LC case matched with a minimalist dial featuring a sunburst brushing and a pair of mirrored Roman numerals along with blued steel sword hands, while the movement is mechanical, specifically, hand wind.

Initial Thoughts

The Tank LC is an undoubtedly a classic dress watch, perhaps even iconic, but not all Tank LCs are created equal. While all share the same case, the dials vary substantially. The Watches of Switzerland (WOS) edition stands out, even amongst the numerous recent iterations of the model. Here the dial manages to be both minimalist and extravagant because it has barely anything markings yet is entirely in gold, with the reflective numerals adding extra shine.

Because this is identical to the standard model aside from the dial, some might find it too small at 25.5 mm wide. It does, however, make an excellent black tie watch, particularly in this all-gold guise.

The WOS edition costs £12,700 including taxes, which is about the same as the equivalent standard version of the Tank LC. In fact, it’s £100 less expensive than the multi-tone dial. This certainly makes this a compelling proposition since it is looks very much like a classic Cartier yet different from the other versions of the model.

Just gold

The WOS edition is essentially the standard Tank LC Large Model but with a different dial. As such, the case has the same dimensions of 25.5 mm by 33.7 mm, while the height is 6.6 mm. It’s a compact watch by modern standards, but close to the vintage men’s Tank LC in size.

Like most current Tank LC models, this has a case in 18k yellow gold, arguably the quintessential material for the model. The gold case is matched with a gold-plated dial with a radial brushed finish. At six and 12 o’clock are oversized Roman numerals, and aside from the brand name under 12, there’s nothing else on the dial.

The hands are sword shaped and blued steel, as is typical for Cartier. To match the hands is a blue sapphire cabochon on the crown, which is also matched with a dark blue alligator strap.

The solid back is engraved with commemorative text as well as the edition number. Under the back sits the cal. 1917 MC, a small in-house calibre originally developed for ladies’ watches. A perfect fit because of its dimensions, the movement has a necessarily short power reserve of 38 hours. The same calibre is also found in the Prive Tank Asymetrique, another watch with dimensions that call for a small calibre.

Key facts and price

Cartier Tank Louis Cartier Watches of Switzerland 100th Anniversary Limited Edition
Ref. WGTA0213

Diameter: 25.5 mm by 33.7 mm
Height: 6.60 mm
Material: 18k yellow gold
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: 30 m

Movement: 1917 MC
Functions: Hours, minutes
Winding: Manual
Frequency: 21,600 vibrations per hour (3 Hz)
Power reserve: 38 hours

Strap: Dark navy alligator strap

Limited edition: 100 pieces
Availability: Available for pre-order at Watches of Switzerland boutiques in the UK, with delivery scheduled for June 2024
Price: £12,700

For more information, visit Watches-of.switzerland.co.uk.