Audemars Piguet has just launched its “first semester collection” that’ll take us through the first half of the year. Most are variations of current models, with two of the most striking sharing the same dial in “smoked yellow gold”, namely the Royal Oak Frosted Gold Selfwinding 37 mm (ref. 15550BA) and the Royal Oak Selfwinding Chronograph 41 mm (ref. 26240BA). Both are fashioned in yellow gold and complemented by a striking dial with a gradient yellow gold finish, conceived to homage to the brand’s yellow gold Royal Oak models of the 1970s.

Initial thoughts

The smoked yellow gold finish was introduced on the Royal Oak “Jumbo” in 2022, so the new releases aren’t a surprise. Nonetheless, it is satisfying to see this dial finish on more compact models like the 37 mm ref. 15550.

Between the two releases, the time-only ref. 15550 is the standout. The clean, radially brushed dial pairs perfectly with the finely grained texture of the frosted case. On the other hand, the dial finish is less punchy on the chronograph due to the traditional tapisserie guilloche. The chronograph, however, is an imposing watch overall due to its size and weight.

The time-only model retails for CHF55,000, while the chronograph is priced at CHF63,000 – both sit in the current range for similar Royal Oak models. Neither is a value proposition, though both are appealing variants of the design.

Smoked yellow gold dials

Both new launches are variants of existing models, compact Royal Oak ref. 15550 and the Royal Oak flyback chronograph ref. 26240.  The brand asserts the all-yellowgold aesthetic is inspired by 1970s Royal Oak models in the same alloy.

The distinguishing feature of both is the smoked finish on the dial that goes from yellow gold to black on the edges. It was achieved with hand-applied varnish. To contrast with the yellow gold finish, both sport a black rhodium-plated 24k gold logo applied just below 12. 

While both have the same dial colour, the two are quite different, size and complication aside.

Measuring 37 mm in diameter and 9.1 mm high, the ref. 15550BA is minimalist for a Royal Oak with a dial that does away with usual tapisserie guilloche. The 18k yellow case has a “frosted” finish attained by employing a diamond-tipped graver to create tiny divots in the gold, creating a granular, sparkly finish.

Due to its small size, the ref. 15550BA employs the cal. 5900, an automatic movement made Vaucher that features a full balance bridge and a power reserve of 60 hours.

The cal. 5900

On the other hand, the chronograph ref. 26240BA retains the traditional chequerboard pattern on the dial. It has gold-tone sub-dials with black numerals matched with white print for the seconds scale. Here the dial is paired with a traditionally finished case that has brushed surfaces and polished edges.

It is also a large watch at 41 mm wide and 12.4 mm high – the largest diameter case for a Royal Oak chronograph that isn’t an Offshore. It is driven by the cal. 4401, an integrated movement featuring a column wheel and vertical clutch. Equipped with a flyback mechanism, the chronograph allows for instantly resetting and restarting.

Key facts and price

Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Frosted Gold Selfwinding 37 mm
Ref. 15550BA.GG.1356BA.01

Diameter: 37 mm
Height: 9.1 mm
Material: Hammered 18k yellow gold
Crystal: Sapphire
Water-resistance: 50 m

Movement: Cal. 5900
Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds, and date
Winding: Automatic
Frequency: 28,800 beats per hour (4 Hz)
Power reserve: 60 hours

Strap: Matching bracelet with folding clasp

Limited edition: No
Availability: At AP Houses and boutiques
Price: CHF55,000

Key facts and price

Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Selfwinding Chronograph 41 mm
Ref. 26240BA.OO.1320BA.02

Diameter: 41 mm
Height: 12.4 mm
Material: 18k yellow gold
Crystal: Sapphire
Water-resistance: 50 m

Movement: Cal. 4401
Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds, date, and flyback chronograph
Winding: Automatic
Frequency: 28,800 beats per hour (4 Hz)
Power reserve: 70 hours

Strap: Matching bracelet with folding clasp

Limited edition: No
Availability: At AP Houses and boutiques
Price: CHF63,000

For more, visit Audemarspiguet.com.