Having launched the first Legacy Machine (LM) Perpetual with a gem-set bezel last year — to mark the 75th anniversary of the brand’s UAE-based retailer Ahmed Seddiqi — MB&F returns with three new LM Perpetual Chromatic Editions set with coloured stones.

Initial thoughts

Last year’s Seddiqi edition featured a bezel set with baguette-cut diamonds. The choice of stone was appropriately dignified for the moment, but coloured stones seem to be something of a trend within a trend.

Jaeger-LeCoultre debuted a trio of Reversos set with coloured gems only yesterday, and Patek Philippe has gone so far as to add its formerly off-catalogue seven-figure sapphire, ruby, and emerald-set Nautilus collection to its website for all to see.

MB&F’s move to embellish its highly technical watches in this way reflects the premiumisation of the broader industry, as collectors seek out the rarest and most exclusive ‘trophy’ variants of sought-after watches.

This trio of LM Perpetuals is notable in another way — the black lacquer dials are unusual, similar to those used for the Longhorn and sporty EVO editions. Illustrating the brand’s continued independence — despite Chanel’s 25% stake — the dials are made by Hermès.

Gems of many colours

At launch, three colours of stones are available — red, blue, and purple — and each watch is limited to just eight pieces.

The rubies are sourced from Mozambique, the purple sapphires are sourced from Madagascar, and the blue stones come from Madagascar and Sri Lanka. The carat weight for each option is roughly the same — between 1.93 and 1.95 carats.

Collectors with a preference for green stones are out of luck for now, though the supplied images suggest an emerald edition might be in development.

The setting is also expertly done — by STG Création SA — so as not to increase the diameter of the already-large LM Perpetual, which is 44 mm in its standard configuration.

This explains the relatively discreet size of the bezel, which offers the secondary benefit of not overshadowing the impressive movement on display.

While a gem-set bezel is not the most creative application of precious stones, MB&F has at least gone a step further than most peers with the option for exotic purple sapphires. Not only is the colour appealing and unusual, the brand went the extra step to PVD-coat the hands a matching shade.

This detail is applied consistently across the range — the blue sapphire model features blued hands, as seen on other LM Perpetuals, and the rose gold-and-ruby model indicates the time, date, and power reserve with case-matched hands.

A foolproof and architectural perpetual

Precious stones aside, there’s ample reason for collectors of all stripes to take an interest in the LM Perpetual due to its movement, which is unique in watchmaking.

Much more than just an openworked perpetual calendar, the LM Perpetual movement was developed by Stephen McDonnell to avoid many of the pitfalls that cause normal perpetuals to return for repair. This means the calendar indications can be adjusted in any sequence, at any time of day without risking damage to the mechanism.

And while the date pointer looks like any other, it is in fact a retrograde display — it rotates counterclockwise when switching from the last day of a month to the first day of the next.

This may seem like a trivial feature, but it significantly improves legibility during the end-of-month changeover because it doesn’t have to creep past the unused dates to get to the first.

It’s also a delightful Easter Egg for night owls who happen to catch the instant changeover in action.

MB&F’s perpetual calendar is unique among latest-generation, user-friendly perpetual calendars in the sense that the mechanism is on full display. Most foolproof calendars rely on less visually appealing architectures — Mr McDonnell’s design is the only movement in its class suited to the sculptural aesthetic of MB&F. 

MB&F Legacy Machine Perpetual Chromatic Editions

Diameter: 44 mm
Height: 17.5 mm
Material: 18k red or white gold
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: 30 m

Movement: Perpetual calendar movement developed by Stephen McDonnell
Functions: Hours, minutes, day, date, retrograde leap year, and power reserve indicator
Winding: Hand-wound
Frequency: 18,000 beats per hour (2.5 Hz)
Power reserve: 72 hours

Strap: Alligator with matching folding buckle

Limited edition: 8 pieces in each colour
Availability: At MB&F retailers and MAD Galleries
Price: Upon request

For more, visit MBandF.com.