Vacheron Constantin unveiled the Overseas Dual Time “Cardinal Points”, a four-watch collection which can be traced back to the prototype that accompanied Cory Richards on his climb on Everest back in 2019.

Initial thoughts

The Overseas collection is Vacheron Constantin’s own take on the luxury sports steel watch. Compared to similar offerings from Audemars Piguet or Patek Philippe, Vacheron Constantin actively advertises the Overseas as a timepiece fit to be worn adventurously. The 2019 collaboration with photographer and climber Cory Richards proved that the Overseas Dual Time is as comfortable on the peaks of Everest as it is navigating boardrooms. 

This “Cardinal Points” collection refines and finishes the the Dual Time prototype piece from 2019.  The four new references each come in a different colour scheme evocative of one cardinal point. The functional styling of the Everest prototype was kept intact, but the additional dial colours help the Dual Time appeal to a broader audience. 

According to Vacheron Constantin, the white suggests the icy North, brown evokes the fertile lands of the South, green represents West with its forests and finally blue signifies the Eastern line of the horizon. Although these associations might feel a bit forced, the idea of linking the Overseas Dual Time with the cardinal points stems from the fact that such a travel watch usually accompanies a traveler — who is at least symbolically guided by a compass and the cardinal points. 

All the references look rather dapper, blending the Genevois style of Vacheron Constantin with a rugged undertone. For me the blue and green colour schemes work the best, but in all truthfulness all four configurations are appealing. 

Vacheron Constantin made a good choice and paired each version with a colour-matched thick rubber strap, which highlights the sporty edge of the model and completes the distinctive colour schemes. An orange rubber strap and matching titanium bracelet are also available. 

Each dial version has the same basic construction and texture, which is slightly disappointing to a degree. A slight change of design or texture from one configuration to the other would have been welcome and could have played well into the distinct four cardinal points narrative. 

Four directions

Fashioned out of light titanium, the new Dual Time collection comes in a broad 41 mm Overseas case. The sleek body of the case is mostly brushed, with coarse streaks giving an impression of ruggedness. The bezel is finished with an anthracite coating, giving it a slightly darker greyish hue. 

Being a proper sports-oriented watch, the Overseas Dual Time comes with a screw down crown and a screw down pusher for setting the pointer date. The additional date pusher breaks the symmetry of the case a little, but actually works well with the instrument theme of the watch. 

The dials all follow the same construction: sloped seconds/minutes ring, applied indices and a rough grained central sector portion. For the white dial configuration the grained texture reminds of fresh snow.  

The dial is easy to read, with local time indicated by the black hands and home time indicated by an additional orange hour hand. There is also an useful orange AM/PM indicator, which allows the home time hand to turn every 12 hours (and not 24 like in the case of many GMT pieces).

Reliably refined engine

Inside the new Overseas Dual Time references beats Vacheron Constantin’s in-house caliber 5110 DT/3. Vacheron Constantin is among the few watchmakers to consistently develop and produce movements worthy of the prestigious Poinçon de Genève. The manufacture constructs their movements with the same exacting standards in mind, regardless if it is a Grand Complication or a plainer time-only caliber.

Older Dual Time models were relying of modified Jaeger LeCoultre ébauche, but thankfully Vacheron Constantin invested in building their own GMT movement a few years back. Caliber 5110 DT/3 is the third iteration of the 5110 DT series, with changes between versions being mostly aesthetic in nature.  

The movement will run comfortably for 60 hours on a full wind, operating at the industry standard 4 Hz movement. The Poinçon de Genève hallmark means the movement was tested for accuracy, build and finish quality, earning the coveted certification. 

The mechanism for the dual time display is mostly placed on the dial side, leaving the bulk of the movement optimised for timekeeping. The movement is not spectacular from a technical point of view, but it does its job well and benefits from a sturdy build. 

The 5110 DT/3 has a special surface treatment applied to its bridges, which lends them a dark grey hue meant to emulate titanium’s own colour. The finishing is up to usual Vacheron Constantin standards, with broad Côtes de Genève and perlage covering all the visible surfaces. 

Key Facts and Price

Vacheron Constantin Overseas Dual Time “Cardinal Points”
Ref. 7930V/210T-H073 (North)
Ref. 7930V/210T-H072 (South)
Ref. 7930V/210T-H074 (East)
Ref. 7930V/210T-H075 (West)

Diameter: 41 mm
Height: 12 mm
Material: Titanium
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: 150 m

Movement: Cal. 5110 DT/3
Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds, second time zone with AM/PM indicator
Winding: Automatic
Frequency: 21,600 beats per hour (3 Hz)
Power reserve: 60 hours

Strap: Matching titanium bracelet and colour-matched rubber strap

Limited edition: No
Availability: Exclusive to Vacheron Constantin boutiques
Price: CHF33,700, tax included

For more, visit vacheronconstantin.com.